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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 02:56 PM
  #16  
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House of Kolor caters to the custom crowd and they do this by offering colors that people usually do not see or use. Bright Neons, candys, tangerines, those types of colors. Its always a good rule of thumb if you do indeed get a custom color to request a few extra pints of paint unreduced. That way if you ever need a repair you have your exact color on stand by. I always mix up my colors on a mixbank and puter, and even then I keep a lil in reserve for reference if I should ever need it again. A good painter should be able to mix colors from all the toners on his mixbank, and if they do not store the orignal reciepe, they should still be able to get it close just by mixing by the eye. Not all can do this but I have seen some bad boy painters whom I learned from knock them out of the ballpark. I do not encourage people to use HOK cause I agree with Boltz. If your going to use domestic paint I say BASF, Dupont, or PPG.
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 07:06 PM
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^ Agreed.

I would like to let people know about a paint called xotic as another option for candy other than HOK. You choose your basecoat and topcoat and make your own custom color, but unlike HOK it IS recoatable. I have even repaired a large quarter size chip and blended candy into candy on my old bumper (not something you can ussually do) without any troubles or imperfections. The thing I really liked was that since you choose your own combo, you can come up with your own color that no one else has.
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 09:46 PM
  #18  
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Who makes that line? I have never heard of them, but that sounds truly bada**. The possibilties oh the possibilties. And you did a normal blend with both candy's?? Hmm some info on that line would be appreciated, thanks boltz. Later

Josh
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 05:14 AM
  #19  
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Thanks for the input. I figured that the best bet was going to be a respray of the entire section and then a blend into the other panels.

caelin~
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 05:22 AM
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how to get off bird poo mark on the paint? tried clay bar and some wax, but the frkn thing wont go away. please help......

thanks in advance
-Mark
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 05:46 AM
  #21  
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Mr Suave. Possibly a very light aplication of rubbing compound followed by rewaxing?
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by akunochi
Mr Suave. Possibly a very light aplication of rubbing compound followed by rewaxing?
what about those stuff they sell on pepboys/autozone? bug and birt sh*t remover? anyone of you guys tried it? I really don't want to use a rubbing comp, coz I have a red car. thanks in advance...
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 07:51 AM
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I've used bug and tar remover and it works ok. It may require a little extra work. Since you can't use the rubbing compound it could be worth it though. Anyone else have a suggestion.
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by akunochi
I've used bug and tar remover and it works ok. It may require a little extra work. Since you can't use the rubbing compound it could be worth it though. Anyone else have a suggestion.
which brand did you use?
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 08:05 AM
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SHoot it's been awhile. I think like tar-x or something. It has been a long time. Sorry man.

Next question....

Suggested car of my new Kandy Brandywine w/ghost flames paint. Products etc etc
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 09:20 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Mr. SUAVE
how to get off bird poo mark on the paint? tried clay bar and some wax, but the frkn thing wont go away. please help......

thanks in advance
-Mark
As akunochi said rubbing compound is the way to go. I understand your fears casue of the red car. But you must understand compound is only the 1st process of a 2 part deal. After the rubbing compound, then you need to apply the polish compound or polish glaze as it is called. 3M products is all I use. Rubbing compound is coarse, and the glaze is fine. Use a buffer and just a dob of compound with a white foam pad, then use the dark polish glaze on a Dark polish pad and a bigger dob of the glaze. That should clear up your bird poo marks. Then you can re wax, and see with all of those products you meantion about bird poo remover and tar remover, those are all hard core solvents, very close to thinner, that will require to polish the car with glaze, and a re wax. So you should just go with the compound is my advice. If your new to using a buffer, take it to a detailer, OR USE LOTS OF PATIENCE and a slow speed on the buffer. You do not want to burn your finish and then have to have it resprayed. Hope this helps later

Josh
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 09:33 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by akunochi
SHoot it's been awhile. I think like tar-x or something. It has been a long time. Sorry man.

Next question....

Suggested car of my new Kandy Brandywine w/ghost flames paint. Products etc etc
LOL I thought you were going to paint your evo with the ghost flames?? Or did you mean CARE, j/k bro, well as far as care for the new paint, I suggest just a very solid wax job on it, and I think we all have diff opinions of diff brands. Some detailers need to jump on board and throw down their input. And another thing is you are not going to be able to touch it for about 6 weeks after its painted. Even if your boy throws it in a booth and bakes it, and even buffs it, its still not ready for waxing, powerwashing, or really anything that remains on the paint. It still needs to fully cure for about 6 weeks then its ready for wax. See in a paint shop we do not use any kind of waxes, or armor all, or ANYTHING SILICONE BASED. That is the worst thing you can have in a paint shop, then you get contaminets and fish eyes or whale eyes, and it messes with the paint. So I say talk to some detailers and get their input. Also FYI compounds and glazes are not silicone based, ANDDDDDD silicone based waxes provide the best protection, just for some reference. Later


Josh
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 09:41 AM
  #28  
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damn typos....care umm yeah. So basically just a good three stage wax job approx. 6 weeks after the spraying. Also I know the wet sanding etc provides the nice finish and stuff, but should I follow up with a clay bar after the 6 week period. I prefer the use of Zaino or Meguiar wax. Your personal preference?
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 09:49 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by akunochi
damn typos....care umm yeah. So basically just a good three stage wax job approx. 6 weeks after the spraying. Also I know the wet sanding etc provides the nice finish and stuff, but should I follow up with a clay bar after the 6 week period. I prefer the use of Zaino or Meguiar wax. Your personal preference?
Honestly your going to laugh at me, I do not wax my own car. I pay detailers to do that because of the aforemeantioned silicone issue. I DONT CARE HOW MANY SHOWERS YOU TAKE OR HOW LITTLE YOU TOUCH IT, it will cause problems in a paint shop. But I say Mequiar's, and do not clay bar after the 6 week period if it is stored in a garage. Clay bar is used to remove overspray acid rain etc etc. A fresh paint job should not need it. And all paint jobs are buffed. See here is the reason for the 6 week period and your painter should inform you of this. Even though the top of paint job is cured enough to color sand and buff, its still curing underneath and all those agents need to be released somewhere so it goes out through the top coat. Kinda like breathing if you will. If it has no where to go it "pops" IE solvent popping. So yes after the 6 week period, wax, good 2 to 3 coats. and repeat however many times a year you feel the need. NO clay bar, should not need it. That should do it.

Josh
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 10:05 AM
  #30  
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Right CLay bar immediatley 2-3 times a week...got it thanks. LOL

So when are we getting this forum idea of yours?
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