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Front sway bar makes a big difference!

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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 10:37 AM
  #16  
kekek's Avatar
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From: CT
Originally Posted by GTWORX.com
If someone ever takes their bar off the car and takes some measurements, i could figure out the effective diameter of the shortened bar to compare it to an aftermarket bar.

- Andrew
I've got measurements at home. Bug me next week when I get home and I'll send definite ones.

Off the top of my head they are 24" torsional length and around 8.5" or 9" lever length. 23.5mm or 24mm diameter depending on where it's measured.
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 10:51 AM
  #17  
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That works, i'm super busy this week anyway.

- Andrew
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 12:16 PM
  #18  
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From: Boisex
http://www.cs.unm.edu/~donour/cars/evo_endlinks/

The way I understand those "safety retaining washers" is that if your rod end ball socket breaks the safety retaining washer keeps the rod end from coming off the head side of the bolt. It appears in donour's pics (the last one) they are on the wrong side of the rod end. Not a huge safety issue to lose the front bar but its always good to stay in good practice. Correct me if Iam wrong.

In fact putting them on both sides gives better articulation of the rod end especially at the silly angle the front ones end up at.
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 04:58 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by brian94ht
The way I understand those "safety retaining washers" is that if your rod end ball socket breaks the safety retaining washer keeps the rod end from coming off the head side of the bolt. It appears in donour's pics (the last one) they are on the wrong side of the rod end. Not a huge safety issue to lose the front bar but its always good to stay in good practice. Correct me if Iam wrong.
Correct. indyevo pointed out the same thing when I first posted the part list. The retaining washer should be on the head side of the bolt.

In fact putting them on both sides gives better articulation of the rod end especially at the silly angle the front ones end up at.
Yeah, that's what I noticed when I assembled them the first time and just left them that way. I'm confident that the bolt head is strong enough for any kind of lateral or shearing load it might see.

The original ones that I built now have about 200 autocross runs and maybe 100-120 track miles on them (hitting rumble strips at 80+ mph). My transient loads are about 1.3G. I pulled them off in february to inspect and they look great and everything still adjusts smoothly/easily. There's a big factor of safety in the parts. The only way I see them breaking is if you jump the car and land sideways on two wheels. In that case, your end links are the least of your worries.

d
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 05:37 PM
  #20  
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looks good, might attempt it
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 05:45 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by MitsuJDM
A good thing to do if you're doing a clutch install. When I do my clutch install sometime down the road, I'm going to buy a sway bar as well
This will be my long-term plan, but for now I can’t justify going through all the hassle of installing the front bar. However, with 38k miles on the stock clutch, I may have to get it done soon.... Not that I’m looking forward for that either.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 05:54 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by brian94ht
[url]
In fact putting them on both sides gives better articulation of the rod end especially at the silly angle the front ones end up at.
I had 8 extra of those washers on order, which I received today and will be adding to both front and rear links.
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