Im trying to do the ball joint kit from whiteline on my evo. As I was trying to remove the driver side lower control arm, the ****ing bolt snapped! I bought a broken screw removal kit but the thing is so seized up it wont come out. Anyone have any ideas? I've tried heat and kind of trying soaking it with PB blaster(what i can) and no luck, im hoping i dont have to take it in anywere... anyone else have any ideas on something i could try?
Evolving Member
If it won't come out with a removal kit, only choice may be to drill it out. Or replace the LCA. Good luck, broken bolts absolutely suck.
Evolving Member
If you cant pull it out with an extractor kit then you are probably stuck taking it to a welding shop or a machine shop and having them pull it out for you. Most of the time if someone is good with a torch they can burn out the broken bolt without destroying the threads.
Evolved Member
Picture please! It'll help.
I also have a used A-Arm in my garage I can sell for cheap (with knuckle) if you need to replace.
I also have a used A-Arm in my garage I can sell for cheap (with knuckle) if you need to replace.
Evolving Member
Hmmmmm.
Others have posted similar problems. I too have a siezed driver side front LCA (rear)bolt. That seems to be the one everyone is having issues with.
I believe the threads were galled or siezed at installation.
This has delayed installation of a psrs for more caster, because I know it's going to turn into a much bigger job.
Others have posted similar problems. I too have a siezed driver side front LCA (rear)bolt. That seems to be the one everyone is having issues with.
I believe the threads were galled or siezed at installation.
This has delayed installation of a psrs for more caster, because I know it's going to turn into a much bigger job.
Evolved Member
I had a similar struggle with that bolt on a car...it was so tight that my gun wouldn't get it out, but it eventually came off with a breaker bar...as mentioned above a good hand with an acetylene torch should be able to melt the bolt through the middle and not the threads. this would essentially be like drilling it out a little bit bigger each time and being careful not to damage the threads. either way, it might be a good idea to get the new bolt from mitsubishi and then get the proper size tap incase you need to rethread it... just remember whenever you work on suspension that a good anti-seize is your friend. good luck
Evolving Member
I'm curious, which bolt is this? I will be installing some suspension parts on the evo soon, and I want to know which one it is so I can plan accordingly. Is it something that must be removed for installation of coil overs?
Newbie
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo II Evo
Picture please! It'll help. will give everyone i better idea of how to help you.
Evolved Member
no. A coilover instal will only require you to remove the two 17mm and 19mm nut bolts that go through the actual strut. The LCA will stay intact. just do your self a favor and get the car in the air, presoak everything in PB blaster before you get to work, and use some good anti-seize on the hardware when you reassemble.
Sorry for the late response guys. Never got an email about anyone responding to the post. Here are the attached pics. The Damn thing is still ****ed in there. My next step is getting someone to come to the house and weld something to the end and hopefully pull it out. Here are the pics.




Evolved Member
I don't want to sound like a Debbie downer but if it didn't come out with the bolt still in one piece, I dont think you are going to be able
To extract it like that. Maybe welding another head to it but still lifelike to snap. Try welding something up and heating the surrounding area. If that fails either drill it out gradually increasing the drill bit size. So that yo have a very thin wall left of the original bolt. Fm there you can probably work it out.
A little tip for drilling that out. Get cutting oil from a homedepot or plumbing supply. Keep it lubes up when drilling. It will not only be more effective but it will keep the bit from burning into a useless bit. I mentioned in a previous post it's going to be a good idea to get a tap also just invade you need to clean up the threads.
To extract it like that. Maybe welding another head to it but still lifelike to snap. Try welding something up and heating the surrounding area. If that fails either drill it out gradually increasing the drill bit size. So that yo have a very thin wall left of the original bolt. Fm there you can probably work it out.
A little tip for drilling that out. Get cutting oil from a homedepot or plumbing supply. Keep it lubes up when drilling. It will not only be more effective but it will keep the bit from burning into a useless bit. I mentioned in a previous post it's going to be a good idea to get a tap also just invade you need to clean up the threads.