I know this has been discussed to death, but I wanted to get some feedback from people who have had the warped rotors.

I have less than 1400 miles on the car and I've had to take the car in twice for brake issues. First it was was a crumpled pad in the right front and they replaced the pad and turned the rotor. Within 500 miles i got the judder in the steering and the dealer said the rotors were warped and turned all 4 rotors. I'm pissed off that i've had brake issues with a brand new car. The dealer was not willing to change the rotor and given that i broke in the car properly i don't see any reason for this warpage. I've had big brake kit on my previous car and i know how to take care of them...like not having my foot on the pedal at a light and allowing the rotors to cool after hard braking.

From what i've read on this forum it seems that the general opinion is that our pads are causing this warpage.

I would like to know how many people have experienced this warpage and at approx how many miles. Most of my driving has been on the street and doesn't involve a lot of interstate driving so i'm on the brakes quite a lot. Also for people who have had their rotors and pads replaced under warranty has the dealer turned (resurfaced) the old ones before changing the rotor.

Thanks in advance.

 

$20 says the guy cut all 4 rotors and then put the wheels back on with an impact gun.
Everyone does it no matter how wrong it is. I have seen pulsations go away after loosening all the lug nuts and retorqueing the wheels. A small amount of out-of-round is exponential at the out side of the rotor.

It's worth a try to loosen the wheels and properly torque them. If you go back to the dealer tell them not to use an impact gun on the wheels. Torque sticks work to only a small extent so they are a big NO too.

 

thanks for advise. I initally thought of that and took it to Belle tire to have the lug nuts retorqued, but their torque wrench was broken. Also as I have my old Volks on with 3mm spacers, I've been paranoid of the lug nuts coming loose and have checked and hand torqued the nuts every week. This may have caused it to, but I'll take it in this week and see if they can check it and re-torque it to avoid any issues in the future. At least if this happens again, i'll know it wasn't due to this.

 

TIP: When you come to a stop, do not come to a dead stop and keep your foot on the brake. Make sure you stop 1/2 car lengh earlier and then coast very slowly forward without the foot on your brake.

I never had any problems with disk warpage.

If you understand what causes the rotors to warp, you can avoid that. Warpage occurs when one part of the disc cools faster than the other. If you simply create conditions that do not allow for that to happen, you should have no problems.

When you sit at a light with your foot on the brake, the rest of the rotor cools while the area between the pads does not (at least not as fast as the rest). Simply avoid that and you will be fine.

FYI: If you go to the track, you will find that people tell the novices never to put on the handbrake after they come off the track.

Hope this helps people with warpage problems.

 

I have had serious problems with my front rotors warping.These so called "high performance "brakes are junk in my opinion.I am considering getting rid of the car.Seems like it's in the shop every month for something.It's getting real old fast.

 

There is also the huge common problem for folks unaccostomed to large rotored braking systems braking rather heavily and then parking their car in the garage for the night. The Evo's rotors are big and they absorb a lot of energy, if an Evo brakes moderately and then is parked, that energy literally bakes the pad material onto the rotors. Appropriate cool downs prior to parking is critical.

 

Largest factor in brakes warping is not due to the customer driving the car hard or heating the rotors up. But do to customers holding down the brakes after a hard stop. If you do decide to drive your evo hard, as I do. You must let your brakes cool down some, do not come to a light and hold your foot on the pedal.

 

Even hard braking and then sitting at the light without your pads pressed against the rotor, the heat from the large rotors will cook the pad material onto the rotors. Be careful what you do before you stop. Keeping your pads from pressing against the rotor firmly will help some.

 

I replaced my OEM pads this past weekend because the front drivers side rotor was trashed. You could see and feel deep ruts dug into the rotor...on both sides of the rotor. I pulled the pads off and on the front (passenger and driver) the pads were desintegrating. There was a huge crater missing out of one and another pad was flaking off in large chunks. Sounds like POS pads to me. They ruined an expensive rotor My Evo only has 5k miles on it.

Just thought I would share.