hello everyone! sorry for the delay in reply. I was able to finish switching out the subframe thanks to all the help i got on here (and my backwoods figure it out knowledge xD lol) one thing i will note, if you are like me then you try to keep from removing things that may not need to be removed, if you decide to take out the suspension and leave the axle.... make sure you bungee chord or zip tie that thing up lol.
Also, if you are using a pry bar to pry something loose from underneath the car, make sure your head isnt in the way if and when it slips. hit myself right in the temple and got a pretty big cut that would have needed about 3 stitches, if i hadnt decided to get a butterfly bandage and some skin glue to do it myself lol, I was seeing stars for a good ten minutes. Lessons learned.

 

Just recently had my clutch replaced and starting to hear a rattle whenever the car is in gear and throttle is applied. Could this be a result of an improperly bolted subframe?

 

It doesn't seem likely but it's possible that sub frame nuts and bolts could be loose...if it was removed to pull the trans. I'd look into the downpipe touching it also. Accelerating causes the engine to twist a lil and could be making the dp come up to make contact .

 

That's sounds more like DP hitting something, or a loose PS line bracket..

 

ive been down the welding the bolt up what a rubbish job

 

same problem here, I ended up applying pressure with prybar why somebody was undoing it with impact gun, worked out fine, didn't wanted to cut and weld

 

Sorry from bring this back from the dead. BUT THANK YOU VERY MUCH for the info guys, it saved me behind. Screwdriver flat of course did the job for me spinning stud. It was pain in the behind but it works. Again thank for the info guys.

 

Sorry for bringing back a old old thread, but I kind of wanted to share my more unlucky experience regarding these subframe studs in hopes that it helps for someone in the future.

So some time ago one of my subframe studs snapped, could not for the life of me understand how that was possible, but a week ago i got the motivation to pull the engine and finally look into this problem.

Apparently the previous owner at some point had problems with the studs spinning and decided to fix it in a really shoddy way..
Lets get to cutting and drilling. There are a total of 10 spot welds on the engine side that need to be drilled (red) and another 4 on the wheel arch side (yellow)


In my case it seems that the previous owner had some problems with the stud, and decided to just weld in the stud in since after taking the box out no square end of the stud could be found, so no wonder it broke..


since mine was messed with some spot welds came off with some persuasion form an angle grinder and a chisel, if the box was not tampered with it comes off nice and easy with the help of some spot weld drill bits. I only had one 8mm drill bit lying around, most probably to do a cleaner job a 10mm drill bit would be nice to have also.



Well with that out of the way lets talk about what to do next, this box part of the sidemember assembly nor the stud cant be bought, the whole assembly here where i live would cost me around 900 euros, so that was not really an option. Not to sure if a base model lancer box is the same or not, but that might be an option. Some friends of mine who changed the studs for rally cars after incidents, would have a machine shop machine the studs from scratch. But in my case i found a parted out RHD evo and cut out the box from the sidemmeber.


after drilling of the before mentioned spot welds we have a replacement box
the 4 spot welds i mentioned that need to be drilled from the wheel arch side are for the reason to not separate the thin metal box that the stud sits inside,


installation part is pretty much straight forward if the use of a chisel and angle grinder were minimal, in my case i needed to straighten out some parts to make the box fit back nice and snug


before welding install the subframe back, to make sure the stud and the box are in the correct place


align the spot weld locations and weld


a dash of paint and we are done


Do not forget some cavity wax since welding does burn off any primer or rust treatment spray.

In the end this job was not as hard as i expected it but i really hope none of you need to go through this ordeal.

 

Excellent work! I'm terrified of having the front subframe recall done at the dealer and them running into this common problem

 

nice work and thanks for the write up