So I'm looking at mustache bar delete kits. They look like the side differential mounts with poly inserts or solid billet.

So if you add poly bushings to the OEM side diff mounts, is the mustache bar still needed?
Seems like it would be, but some ads say you can buy the delete kit without bushings if you already have them (Torque Solutions). Just curious.

Wanted to bump this as I am also interested in seeing if anyone is running one of these kits like the torque solution one.

I asked the same question long ago, and I think most people run the MBE just to be safe.


I made my own MBE the one that bolts to the back of the diff, and it broke a while ago, and I have been driving and racing with it broken for a while. I finally picked up the TS MBE and installed that. I also have aluminum inserts in the cast iron side diff supports.


I had more clunking from the rear when the MBE was broken, but all bolts are good on the side diff supports.


I would recommend running the MBE to prevent the forward and backward motion of the diff and running solid side supports.

I would put poly bushings in the mustache bar.

my kit came with them, i was just looking to shed some weight. during the off season, i plan to drop the rear sub frame and put the bushings in.
and build my splitter.
and add my fender braces.
and....

LOL

my GF gets so jealous.

You're gonna save, what, 20lbs? meh...


You have to buy one of the "eliminators", the diff will flop around without anything mounting the back of it. I would save the money for fuel, a tire, etc...


My GF gets quite jealous too. Especially these last few months of chasing drivetrain noises and spending thousands on the stupid thing...lmao. Then to top it off, I had to put a clutch in it two weeks ago, and now I'm putting a clutch and cams in my buddies X..haha

the car is 3100lbs now. lighter than i thought. 20lbs here... 15 there... eventually i get her to sub 3000lbs. that would be epic. the mustache bar delete isn't the only weight-saving mod i'd perform.

my GF doesn't quite get mad at the time involved.. but it is funny when they are like, "you bought what? but you haven't taken me out since..."

hhahaha.

Every little bit helps. Last time on the scales I was at 2870. Next time on the scales I am hoping to be in the 27xx range. My target goal is 26xx, wet. I think on the evo we need to shave weight off the front of the car more than the rear.


I am running a MBE and I think it is a great way to cut 20lbs out of your car.

I've noticed it seems most of the things we can do to lighten our cars affects either front and rear/middle or just the rear by itself. It's hard to lose weight from only the front.

Did you put the battery in the trunk yet? Taking a full size battery out of the front and putting it in the rear helps more than just taking it off as far as fixing the weight bias goes. Same goes for putting the ACD pump in the back.

Meh, they are FWD cars with rear assist. 50/50 would be nice but it will never happen. 63/37 or 62/38...probably not going to matter. Less weight and CoG lower to the ground is probably the better answer then worrying about the weight distribution.

Besides, if you are on the gas early enough, you get weight transfer to the back anyway and you are probably 50/50 rocketing out of the corner..

My car is 60/40 with the battery in the trunk. It does have decent amount of rake though. I could probably lift the front .5"-.75". My fender gaps are about even front-rear.

I could, but my battery is super light. I can pick it up with one hand. If I still move it to the back, it would fit in the small space opposite the washer fluid reservoir.
Also, Moving the ACD pump is something I need to look up.

I am in the process of moving the battery and ACD pump to the rear. I am also moving my ECU to the engine compartment and I am going to strip out tons of unused wire. I also ditched the blower motor and all HVAC stuff . Have not used the fan/ac in years, CA has pretty good weather so it was a no brainer.

Too hot and cold in Vegas for no climate control...lol