GaBe511

iTrader: (12)

So would you also recommend flipping the springs on Ohlins if the Evo is a daily driver?

Nicolas

iTrader: (1)

you mean with 40 sidewall you need stiffer than 8/10? wont that make the whole car stiffer since there is less sidewall?

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Hi Nicolas

I was just making the comment that running a 40 series vs a 30 or 35 tire, the spring rate must be accounted for. Unless, Im mistaken, the 40 series tire will have less spring rate to it, due to the taller size

Heres an interesting calculator for spring rate of tires:
http://paws.kettering.edu/~amazzei/tire_calculator.html

Nicolas

iTrader: (1)

i thought you were talking about 40 in comparison to 45. Nice calculator. I will definitely spend a few hours on that playing with values. loool

yip

iTrader: (1)

So I am up in Sonoma all this week and am thinking about finally picking these up. One of my rear V3's has a leak and I'm not really interested in sending them in for a rebuild.

With that said the only thing I'm hesitant on is not having the ability to adjust compression and rebound independently. I've been getting schooled at the track by my buddy that does track support/service as a job and he has been teaching me how to adjust the car. He is adamant that I should get something with independent compression and rebound adjustment. But...... he is not an EVO guy and I know some of you are much more experienced with this chassis.

So stop over thinking it and pull the trigger on the R&T's? What spring rates for a dedicated track car? We are moving to 18x10 to run 275's.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

If its a dedicated HPDE car or SCCA / NACA, rates from 10K front / 12K rear to 12K to 14K should be considered (Keep front sway bar stock but use the lower Cusco mount)

Just my .02

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

It depends on your budget. A dual adjustable damper can out perform the R/T's on track, if you go with something quality. MCS, Moton, AST, etc... But you're spending a lot more. So you have to weigh your options. I have found the R/T's to be very very good. A dual adjustable damper is another level though that I'm sure will offer higher performance with more fine tuning ability.

yip

iTrader: (1)

Going by PSI today was probably a really bad idea. They were very helpful and willing to educate a complete noob like me but.... they are trying to talk me into buying a set of AST 5200 ($4,400) or 5300's ($5,100). I'm on the fence now and trying to figure out what the best long term decision would be. I'm still at a very beginner level learning how to drive, maintain and tune a track dedicated car.

Part of me thinks that I should just make the investment in the AST's right now but on the other hand I wonder if I will ever have the skill to need a 2 or 3 way adjustable system. They did say that even if I was tracking the car 20 times a year that the AST's would last 4 years or more and that is appealing.

I really need to get my priorities figured out as I would like to get a 1 way front diff, 18x10 wheels and upgrade to a enclosed trailer. Right now I can't swing doing all of those things. Something's gotta give. So if I was to go the AST route I would likely sacrifice upgrading from my tilt trailer to an enclosed trailer. But if I go Ohlins I could do it all.

I'm going to be up here in Sonoma all week but I plan to stop back by PSI and purchase something before we head back to L.A.

Appreciate all your guys feedback!

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

Yip,

Just by the sound of this I think you would be much happier with a set of Ohlins DFV Road and Track. For the longest time they were (and still are) known as some of the best coilovers you can put under an evo. They are the "Super Saiyan" coilover. Spending any more money on a set of coilovers, even for a dedicated track car may not give you the same $$$/fun ratio. I feel that the high end AST's are built for those who really want every fraction of a second off their time. In my opinion, if you can't confidently say that you have already set the very best time you could on your current setup and that AST coilovers is the next significant bump in performance, I wouldn't get them. I would be happier with the Ohlins, 1 way front diff, 18x10 wheels, and enclosed trailer.

yip

iTrader: (1)

Thx for the advice! I'm going to go with the Ohlins. What spring rates do you guys recommend for a dedicated track car and is there anything else I should request or have done while I am making the order at PSI?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Dedicated track car I would do 12k/14k (PSI sells eibach springs, so they'll be in lbs/in, so, 700/800 or 700/850 will be good) and have PSI revalve according. You'll be able to change springs to adjust balance form there if you feel it needs it.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Demographics. Most people that bought a X bought it because it was the "latest and greatest". They aren't really the track-day type. Very few people really track their X and they are probably all on this forum. 😂

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

If you look for a year, you might be able to find a set of Ohlin Flags used for under 3k . That'll get you something better than even the DFV (so far, they are much better actually). But that is the used route and they do need a few things upgraded on them to be right (mostly the canister locating pin up front)

Springs for a proper dedicated track car? 700/900 is a good start. For AutoX, start there and keep upping the rear till you get the low speed rotation you want.

yip

iTrader: (1)

Ordered them at PSI today with 12k/14k as you recommended. They said they are able to go up to 16k and that would be the limit of what the R&T's could handle.

That's too bad considering it seems to be the consensus that the X is even better than the CT9A on track. I hope to get a chance to drive a sorted X on a track someday.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I'm waiting to see the same. I haven't seen Xs match 8/9 lap times. Not to say they haven't, I just haven't seen it.
I've ridden in a X at an AutoX. I was happy with how AYC (I assume) let it rotate. It was impressive.