Wajeb Wahab

Hello everyone,

I tried searching for Adjustable control arms, for my evo because I crashed into a small sidewalk due to my Semi slicks being cold and some dust on the floor literally the car was sliding as if it was on ice.

Long story short, I was thinking instead of buying stock parts, and since my car is being used on the track and in Hill Climbs, I was thinking of upgrading.

I don't want to go all out, but I wanted maybe something better than stock, I already have Autofortune coil overs, a fully built engine, sway bars etc.

What is the best (cheapest) front control arms. I know the cheapest aren't the best, but what I mean is which ones are the best but keeping in mind the budget isn't open.

Thanks

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

@Wajeb Wahab

There are 2 suppliers im famiiar with:

• The best (owner is a member here) = https://www.ssb-designs.com/
• https://usa.wisefab.com/

Biggiesacks

I think https://racefab.co.nz/ also sells some.

RS200

iTrader: (1)

My question is what you want to upgrade with the control arms. The stock units are already light and a decent design, with very good aftermarket support for bushings and ball joints. Do you have an issue related to suspension geometry that needs to be addressed? Many time attack and hillclimb cars use the stock arms, so unless you need extra caster, track width or wheelbase for tire clearance, there is no point in buying aftermarket control arms.

Wajeb Wahab

Honestly I have no reason to upgrade them what so ever... It's just that I bumped into the pavement and instead buying the stocks I thought I'll buy after market. Thats it! Hence why I'm asking cause I read about them and couldn't understand why they are beneficial.

RS200

iTrader: (1)

We just saved you some money I suppose, haha. Go with stock arms again, until you find a reason to change your geometry. 99% of Evo owners will never reach that point, no need to fix something that works. I hope traction is with you next time!

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Obviously you should only upgrade something that serves a purpose in its change. Otherwise the OEM is pretty good being aluminum already with options for offset bushings or slightly longer ball joints.

What you can get out of an adjustable or aftermarket part,

• Adjustable caster and wheel position. This one is huge to be able to push the wheel forward to counter offset top hats. Done right, you can get over 9deg of caster... Our cars like 9deg of caster if you have a good rear diff
• A spherical bearing on the inner bushing. Offset bushings put a lot of bind on this bushing creating a ton of stiction. That much stiction is negating any benefits of more caster. Stiction is BAD.
• Options for length. EvoX arms are 20mm longer than Evo8/9, if you have widebody and need to fix scrub this is your way. If you are trying to stay as narrow as possible, Evo8/9 length is better.
• Adjustable ball joint. Some have shims to move RC for a fine tune. Mine are +0, +5, or +10mm. If you have standard uprights of course +10 would probably be all you'd use but when you have +32 or +50mm in the upright, it becomes another tuning method.

Dont expect much weight loss in them. Stock being aluminum means its hard to actually get much lighter. Mine are 1lb per side lighter but weight loss alone itd be a terrible use of money