still have garbage sub tho

 

are there any sub that will fit the OEM sub enclosure since most likely I will be swapping out the amp and sub. I want to keep my budget to minimum plus the trunk doesn't have enough space as is that's why I want to use the oem enlcosure.

 

There are a lot of threads about people who re-use the stock sub enclosure, main thing you need to do is cut a piece of plastic off the back to make room for larger magnets, otherwise I think it is a pretty easy swap.

My concern would be air space, I doubt the stock plastic housing provides enough air space for any good sub. I do not know what the stock air space is in cu ft. Crutchfield even has a couple pages about how to mount a new 10" sub in the stock housing if you buy anything from them, you will get t his data sheet. Or I could provide it to you if needed.

 

The 10" Kenwood eXcelon slim sub fits perfectly. No modifications needed (except getting new wires in the box). I believe the airspace is enough for it as well, being a slim sub. Same one I have, I'm quite happy with it.

This is the one I have: http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...rs/KFC-XW1000F

 

dasmikechen - thank you! If you don't mind, would you be able to send it to via email?!? Tristanparayno@gmail.com

migs647 - I'm about to look that up! Thank you.

 

nice write up+1

 

I replaced the RF sub with a MTX THUNDER slim because I wanted to keep the sub box. It fit in the box perfectly except the screw holes to mount the sub to the box didn't line up.. so I had to do a little modification there.
The end result was a powerful sub in a inferior en-closer.
The sub box vibrates to the point of sounding like bad bass response.

I am looking to buy a proper sub box from this place:
http://www.wickedcas.com/gallery/v/magicboxes/EVOX/
I just haven't come up with the funds yet.

 

I ended up going with a magic box from them. Just make sure you buy the other trunk foam piece ($45) because it DOES NOT work with the stock foam from a car with the SSS package. Also, the holes to screw the box into the car have to be lined up and screwed in before putting the speaker in the box. This means if you want to take any other liner out of the car in your trunk, you will need to unscrew the speaker then unscrew the enclosure. A little annoying so get all your wiring and springs and other trunk compartment stuff done before you install the speaker.

 

I do have the SSS package. What other foam piece are you referring to? Is it available on that same website that sells the Magic Box?
How do you like the magic box.. is it worth the $$$$$$?

 

Are the stock 18 gauge wires ok for aftermarket speakers? Doesn't crutchfield sell adapters for the stock speaker plugs to wire up to aftermarket speakers?

 

I've personally used the 18 gauge before, and wasn't happy with the results. I'm not sure if it was the speakers or the wire, but it was definitely one of them. I tapped into the wires going into my origin oem amp.

 

Sorry I missed this, but there are two different foam pieces. One is designed to fit snug around the stock sub, and the other LOOKS like a compartment box that you have on the right side, but has nothing in it. The wickedCAS box slides into it. I had to by mine from a OEM parts seller for $45~ shipped.

After owning and having it setup, its great. I do not miss my second 12" sub, and having a trunk is awesome, probably worth the money to have a usable trunk. The bass still rattles the hell outta all the plastic

I bought these and they worked flawlessly on my alpine SPR-60 and 60C

 

So the Toyota ones will work on my evo x standard speakers?

 

Yup, should anyway. They worked just fine on mine. I dont think there is a difference between the connectors for the SSS vs non-SSS. And I have not had any signal issues with the stock wiring.

I bought the speaker spacers from Crutchfield and you will most likely have to cut one of the pieces off your door to make room for the magnet on your speaker. Otherwise, its a pretty easy swap.

 

It depends on what sort of aftermarket equipment you're going to use. For me, I used JL C5-650s for the front, and C5-650x for the rear. If you're going for something like that, I can tell you for a fact that you'll notice a difference. When I originally couldn't get the rear speaker wires to ohm-out, I ran new wiring to the rears, and used OEM wires for the front. BIG difference. The rears sounded excellent, and the front sounded like absolute CRAP. So I then ran new wires for the front. The biggest gripe about running new wire is going through the wire channel between the door and chassis - it can, no, not can - it WILL - suck. But if you experiment like I did, you'll learn very quickly that new wire is essential.

If you're not using something as high quality, perhaps you won't notice a difference. I would suggest installing the new speakers with OEM wires, but then have your own piece of aftermarket wire to make your own connections and see if you notice a difference before going to the trouble.

And as far as Crutchfield goes, only use them for things like information (only once has their tech support led me astray - and it wasn't about my Lancer) and wiring adapters. As for speakers/headunits themselves, avoid those high prices at all costs.