Anyone???/ Bueller???

 

I ran a 6 channel amp in the rear, off of it's own power. I then ran speaker wires from the trunk up to the factory amp where my cross-overs sit, and tapped into the speaker wires from the cross-overs so I didn't have to run through the doors.

 

Sorry migs647.. I think you misunderstood me.. I want to use the existing power wires that power the stock amp..
pull the stock amp out and replace with an after market amp. I want to use the same power wires already there. The amp would be used only to run the door speakers. So it wouldn't be drawing that much power.

What do think?

 

You can use those power wires if you want but don't expect much from them. The power you can draw threw those is very limited but will work for a small 4 channel amp for mids and tweeters. Subs in any form will not work( ok that's a lie, they will but on any good base hit the amp will cut out).

I highly recommend running a power wire off the battery threw the firewall, it's not hard and takes maybe 30 mins to run.

The biggest issue with a 4 channel amp there is you have to tap the deck for the remote turn on, the stock amp uses the can-bus (digital) turn on so there is no way to remote turn on the aftermarket amp.

Running a remote line isn't too hard but requires removing alot of the dash and tapping the correct wire on the stock deck.

Hope that helps...

 

Thanks for the info Zeroflux..

What if the amp has smart engage.. it shouldn't require a remote line to turn the amp on in that instance.. as far as my understanding?

In an earlier post Webman stated that the power wires are constant hot. What exactly does that mean? If I hook an after market amp to those wires will the amp always remain power on?

As you can tell I'm not tech savvy in the least and I'm trying to do this on my own without taking it to an install place.

The 4ch amp I'm planing on using is the ALPINE MRP-F300

 

Do you get any engine noise, like a whining sound as u accelerate? Great write up btw.

 

The whining sound may be from your turbo. I thought I had the same thing, we used a stethoscope throughout the car, the sound was coming straight from the turbo, not the speakers.

 

excellent writeup btw. I am contemplating installing my JL 500/1 amp with my stock navi, but might just start from scratch w/ a new head unit due to lack of iPod controls.

 

I may be wrong but I think you can buy a iPod cable for the navi that plugs into the rear of the deck, I was looking into it but never got around to it

 

The iPod cable that Mitsu sells replaces the input from the aux box in your console with a 3.5mm headphone style interface. The head unit will not control the iPod, it's just like running it into headphones.

 

I just installed my MMCS and I can't seem to fit my four wires coming from my amp. Do any of you guys know where I can connect these four colored wires? I tried looking behind the MMCS and couldn't find j@ck ****.

If there is an item that can convert it... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...X-ALOC648.html
???

 

Everything is mapped really well, except the tweeters. Anyone able to confirm the L/R for the tweeter wires on the right?

 

does this mean that you don't have stereo audio in your car now?

im guessing the aftermarket amps people are using generate more heat. has anyone took their seat out recently to see if anything under the seat (or surrounding) has been de-formed b/c of the extra heat? or even burnt a little?

 

The heat that comes off of an amp wouldn't burn the seat. It may deform it overtime. I'd be more worried about the amp getting too hot and burning out than I would the seat.

 

The amp under the seat has its own ac vent (AC vents for the rear seats are located under the seats) so no worries about heat.

No i still have stereo, it just goes front to rear instead of side to side but you can configure it anyway you want. My reasoning in my setup is i wanted to keep the rear speakers on one channel and the front speakers on there own channel so i can level the front and rear.