Finally replaced the Oem Amp
Evolved Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,016
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From: Denver, CO
Hey zeroflux, where did you get the remote turn on from? That wire you have labeled as digital turnon (unsure) shows 2.9v to me when the stereo is on, I imagine I could build a relay around that, but I thought I'd see if you had a better way. I got everything installed and running last night.
Oh and by the way, thank you, a tremendous amount, for this info. The only difference in mine was that they used completely different color wires for the low level.
Oh and by the way, thank you, a tremendous amount, for this info. The only difference in mine was that they used completely different color wires for the low level.
Last edited by Webman; Mar 25, 2010 at 07:35 AM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 6
From: Nelson
I was not able to get any of the harness wires to turn on my amp so I did the next best thing, I found the acc line that goes to my sat nav and just ran another lune from that instead of building a relay. Suprising it took almost no time at all to run that line since the whole dash comes off super fast.
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater,FL
Hey zeroflux, where did you get the remote turn on from? That wire you have labeled as digital turnon (unsure) shows 2.9v to me when the stereo is on, I imagine I could build a relay around that, but I thought I'd see if you had a better way. I got everything installed and running last night.
Oh and by the way, thank you, a tremendous amount, for this info. The only difference in mine was that they used completely different color wires for the low level.
Oh and by the way, thank you, a tremendous amount, for this info. The only difference in mine was that they used completely different color wires for the low level.
Evolved Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
I was not able to get any of the harness wires to turn on my amp so I did the next best thing, I found the acc line that goes to my sat nav and just ran another lune from that instead of building a relay. Suprising it took almost no time at all to run that line since the whole dash comes off super fast.
Evolving Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 118
Likes: 1
From: Chino Hills, CA
Ok, heres what i did to replace the OEM amp with a nice JL Amp under the driver seat.
1. Disconnect the power
2. Unplug all 4 connectors under the driver seat
3. Remove the bolt covers on the legs of the seat then un bolt it.
4. The driver seat comes out easy if you tilt it back and take it out rear driver side passanger door.
5. Now that the seat out its pretty straight foward to disconnect the OEM amp, 4 bolts hold it in place, just disconnect the wire harness and remove it.
So this is what it looks like under the seat with the amp pretty much unbolted. For my instalation I cut the AC duct above the amp to right were it come out of the carpet so there was enough room for the JL audio amp to sit in the nice grove that is under the seat.
Here is what it looked like after I got most of the wiring in place and was testing the ACC line that i tapped into off of the Nav system. The line out from the deck is a low level output so you just need solder on some RCAs and it will work with any Amplifier.
Here is the wiring cleaned up abit (still not done) but atleast in place for the new system.
The setup is running the front speakers on the front left channel threw a single crossover (for the tweeters, and mid range) and the rear spekers on the front right channel with the sub bridged on the rear amp channels.
On to some of the interesting things i learned while doing this. The Nav unit has no conecpt of balance, just fade but with this setup you don't even get that because the OEM amp only get the front low level input lines sent to it.
I think the rear output exists on the NAV unit but i haven't found any information on what pins they are so i can run new lines from the Nav unit to get the fade working so i can have a bit better sub control. (any info on this would be great)
I don't have a picture of the ACC line tap i added (should have but forgot) but it is a yellow wire (pin 20 which is the very first wire on top of the 20 pin harness, there only one 20 pin harness so its pretty easy to find) and will take a pick when i do some more work next week.
The power lines for the OEM amp are on a 30amp fuse but these power lines just don't have enough juice for a high powered amp with a sub. There should be enogh juice for the mid and high systems but a sub draws to much power. You will need to run a dedicated power line from the battery for this (I will take pictures of that too when i put one it next week)
On to the part i am sure most of you are interested in, that POS OEM wire harness and its layout. There are 1 or 2 pins i still don't know and i assume are the CAN-BUS lines but here is the general layou of all the pins.
I really hope this helps and if you have any question let me know and i may have an answer.
1. Disconnect the power
2. Unplug all 4 connectors under the driver seat
3. Remove the bolt covers on the legs of the seat then un bolt it.
4. The driver seat comes out easy if you tilt it back and take it out rear driver side passanger door.
5. Now that the seat out its pretty straight foward to disconnect the OEM amp, 4 bolts hold it in place, just disconnect the wire harness and remove it.
So this is what it looks like under the seat with the amp pretty much unbolted. For my instalation I cut the AC duct above the amp to right were it come out of the carpet so there was enough room for the JL audio amp to sit in the nice grove that is under the seat.
Here is what it looked like after I got most of the wiring in place and was testing the ACC line that i tapped into off of the Nav system. The line out from the deck is a low level output so you just need solder on some RCAs and it will work with any Amplifier.
Here is the wiring cleaned up abit (still not done) but atleast in place for the new system.
The setup is running the front speakers on the front left channel threw a single crossover (for the tweeters, and mid range) and the rear spekers on the front right channel with the sub bridged on the rear amp channels.
On to some of the interesting things i learned while doing this. The Nav unit has no conecpt of balance, just fade but with this setup you don't even get that because the OEM amp only get the front low level input lines sent to it.
I think the rear output exists on the NAV unit but i haven't found any information on what pins they are so i can run new lines from the Nav unit to get the fade working so i can have a bit better sub control. (any info on this would be great)
I don't have a picture of the ACC line tap i added (should have but forgot) but it is a yellow wire (pin 20 which is the very first wire on top of the 20 pin harness, there only one 20 pin harness so its pretty easy to find) and will take a pick when i do some more work next week.
The power lines for the OEM amp are on a 30amp fuse but these power lines just don't have enough juice for a high powered amp with a sub. There should be enogh juice for the mid and high systems but a sub draws to much power. You will need to run a dedicated power line from the battery for this (I will take pictures of that too when i put one it next week)
On to the part i am sure most of you are interested in, that POS OEM wire harness and its layout. There are 1 or 2 pins i still don't know and i assume are the CAN-BUS lines but here is the general layou of all the pins.
I really hope this helps and if you have any question let me know and i may have an answer.
Evolved Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
What are you hooking up to that power? Two of them are of a higher gauge than the third. You wouldn't want to run anything but a really small amp off of those power wires. Also, take note that those are constant hot (not switched) wires.
Evolving Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 118
Likes: 1
From: Chino Hills, CA
