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Finally replaced the Oem Amp

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Old Feb 9, 2010, 04:12 AM
  #16  
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I don't do this stuff myself, but even I can see you deserve major kudos for what you did. Hell, you laid it all out so well that if I didn't actually have all my new equipment installed I could atually attempt it.
Old Feb 10, 2010, 12:23 PM
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It was a nerve racking experience, I know what I am doing but it was brand new car I was taking apart. I just hope this information helps out other people thinking about going down this route.
Old Feb 12, 2010, 02:21 PM
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Did you have a separate amp for the sub or did you power it with the jl as well?
Old Feb 12, 2010, 04:30 PM
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For the record that unknown connection is suposed to be for the Canbus.
Old Feb 12, 2010, 05:22 PM
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Nice work, this will help should i decide to get the stock navi
Old Feb 13, 2010, 12:19 AM
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The jl has a lot of power for it's size and has done such a great job powering my jl 10w6 that I most likely won't put my pheonix gold 5 channel monster in. What I am fairly duprised about is that the Rockford speakers actually sound pretty good when you give then some decent power. The sub is **** poor but the rest of the system is not to bad.
Old Feb 13, 2010, 06:07 AM
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I have the same amp ready to be put in... how did you wire the amp? did you make it part of the rear?
Old Feb 13, 2010, 08:36 AM
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nice writeup, subscribed
Old Feb 13, 2010, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Zeroflux
The jl has a lot of power for it's size and has done such a great job powering my jl 10w6 that I most likely won't put my pheonix gold 5 channel monster in. What I am fairly duprised about is that the Rockford speakers actually sound pretty good when you give then some decent power. The sub is **** poor but the rest of the system is not to bad.
That's good to know! It sounds like my G6600 will work perfectly for this and the speakers will actually sound good. Do they distort at all with a HPF on?
Old Feb 14, 2010, 01:59 AM
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With the hp filter on there is pretty much no distortion at high volumes.

As for setup, because the nav unit only outs puts front channels (or atleast that all that's wired in the ss package although I'm sure the rears exist on the wire harness on the back of the nav but are not wired down to the stock amp) you have to set the amp with front only inputs. So you will lose sub control but I found it to be not that big of deal once I had the system tuned barely change it.

Remember if you do go down this path like I have you will need to run a seperate power cable since the stock line just can't handle hard hitting base since it draws to much current but that is not that hard to do and I can take pics of were I pushed a wire threw the firewall for this.

The one complait I have with this jl amp is there is no bus port you could plug a sub control into and mount in the center console but some of there other amps do have that built in (like the g6600) which is an added bonus.

And remember you will need an extra cross over since the front speakers cross overs were built into the stock amp and you don't want to blow the tweeters in the front
Old Feb 14, 2010, 02:05 AM
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Ohh and I wired the amp with the front speakers on front left channel and rear speakers on the front right with the sub bridged across the rear. Not the best way to do this but it does allow me to squeeze as much power out of the two different speaker sets. You can just as easily wire the speakrs to a more standard lest side right side if you have 2 cross overs to use but I like the control I have in my setup balancing front to rear.
Old Mar 12, 2010, 01:42 PM
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I'm bumping this because it's a very informative thread. I will be redoing the stereo in my X very soon, and I'm glad this info is here to make the process much easier.

One thing to know about that amp though. It is not set up like other amplifiers. The load on one set of channels (1/2) affects the load that is on the other set of channels when bridged. So, in your setup, you are only pushing about 37.5 watts to your door speakers, and about 150W on the rear channels. If all channels were running in stereo mode, it would push 75W RMS at 4 ohms. But because of the 4ohm load bridged, and 4ohm stereo load, the amp can't perform at its best. I had this amp in my truck, and finally replaced it with a JL Audio G4500 which puts out a tad more power, but the channels are separated. Now I'm pushing 80W to my stereo channels @ 4ohm, and 250W to my sub @ 4ohm. I plan on getting the G4500 for my X, and just putting the front and rear door speakers on channels 1/2 at a 2 ohm load, and then the sub on the other channels, bridged at a 4 ohm load. The G4500 also has the RBC port for bass adjustment. I'll get that and mount it on the center console.

Thanks again!
Old Mar 23, 2010, 09:56 AM
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Since you guys seem to be doing this all with the Navi system... is it any different for the non navi system? I have the RF system in my GSR but I didnt spring extra for the Navi.
Old Mar 23, 2010, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Spy007
Since you guys seem to be doing this all with the Navi system... is it any different for the non navi system? I have the RF system in my GSR but I didnt spring extra for the Navi.
I seriously doubt if it's any different. Costs are lower to adapt the stereo to the amp rather than multiple amps to multiple stereos. I bet it's identical.
Old Mar 24, 2010, 01:21 PM
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Bravo Zeroflux, you are my hero!!!


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