Yeah I was looking to run the same setup as Zeroflux had posted in his picture thread on the first page. The only reason Im even considering replacing the amp is because I had one lying around from a previous car. The audio does not sound terrible currently, just has minimal base as though I was severely under-powering my sub which i speculate is whats happening.

 

My amp blew or shorted... Idk, anyways I have a kenwood amp, would I need one of them kit things if I have just a regular 6 disk radio w/ no nav? I'm trying to look for the eases way I can do this even if it means no sub I really don't care at this point....I just want my sound back and everytime I try to change a fuse they just blow out. I'd even buy someone old RF amp if they have one for cheap. Either way someone help me out here please!

 

Any companies out there selling adapters or pigtails so you dont have to molest your factory harness?

 

To replace the Factory Amp or Factory Head Unit?

 

anyone looking to sell their OEM amp?

 

Yes. I'll sell you mine.

 

So i ordered from amazon a Boss PH4.600 Phantom 2400 Watt Mosfet 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier with Remote Sub level adjuster. I know Boss aint the best brand but it is decently cheap for the amount of watts. The model has low and high level option. Will i still need to buy the line output converter if I were to just use the High level input the amp offers. I am trying to replace as little as possible so there is less of a chance to mess something up.

 

if you don't replace the head unit, that amp won't work correctly. The factory amp is actually a 8 channel amp that runs at 1 Ohm. If you connect that to a normal amp, you will overload it running too low of an ohm load.

 

Also, for anyone that finds the initial picture not 100% accurate for their car (my colors were different), here's some tips for rewiring the doors and figuring out what goes where.

In the doors themselves, green is negative, yellow is positive. The factory harness goes the to woofer, then branches off the to the tweeter.

If you are going to rewire the doors and amp, all you need is one set of the wires, you can tap into it then split off into woof/tweet in the door.

How to figure out which harness wire goes to which door:

-Cut the harness off. Isolate the power wires (usually red) and cap them off.
-connect one speaker to each door (or go ahead and install and connect to the yellow/grn wires to your new speakers)
-get a AA battery. touch your suspected speaker wires to each side of the battery. The wire your think is positive touch the the positive, same for the negative
-repeat this until you hear a speaker buzz: that is where that set of wires runs to

It only took my about 10 minutes to tap in and rewire my aftermarket amp and speakers using this method


EDIT: if you don't want to cut the harness, you can t-tap every wire in it and perform the battery test on the t-tap

 

OK.. I replaced everything but the NAVI. Anyone replaced there NAVI HU with a nice after market head unit yet? I need advice, tips & guidance.
Any threads you can refer me to?

 

I'm adding to the existing audio system Rockford Fosgate an old active (amplified) subwoofer. Since it's amplified by it's on power connections where should I connect the left and right to supply this sub with audio? should I use the already amplified outs to the Rockford Fosgate sub or should I use the left and right IN that comes from the nav system?

 

Here Here!

 

I'm struggling to find a fader to split out 2 x left and right input to 4 x left and right with front and rear.

I found "AIV IN CAR AUTO AUDIO RADIO RCA FADER NOISE CONTROL 4 TO 2 CHANNEL GOLD PLATED" on ebay but as this must be a normal request why arn't there more options, maybe I'm looking for the wrong thing, what do people normally do?

 

Kudos for this information - it'll save me a big hassle on figuring it out myself - or even worse -paying a stereo shop to do it. My factory amp on my GTS with the S&S package just up and went "kaput!" on me so now I've got yet another project to do.

Quick question though:

I've found another wiring schematic on another forum that states that the CANbus is what acts as the remote turn-on for the OEM amp. Did you have to put a traditional 120 ohm termination on your CANbus wires that went to the amp, or do you still have functionality without it?

2 more weeks and my JL system gets installed...

Thanks for the help!!

 

If anyone that replaced the factory amp lives in Texas, I'd love to come listen to your car to hear how it turned out. Shoot me a PM. Thanks!