Originally Posted by ghozt

Instal was very simple. Even with taking pictures for the step by step, it took about 3hrs. So I figure 1.5 hours if you are not trying to document along the way. honestly the hardest part was fitting it in the vent and routing the ribbon cable, but I think I documented a pretty good way to do it, that I will have in my write up with pics.

Pros: It has ALOT of features. It is more of a gauge display system, than just a boost gauge. I was looking into a HUD and this is meeting all the needs I wanted for that and I am calling off the search for a HUD. I know it is not technically in my forward field of view, but it is very easy to read and get the info I need at a blink glance.

I will be doing the PLX AFR addition as soon as the PLX arrives in the mail. But even without the ARF as the aux input gauge, you get boost/vac (with boost plot graph which is pretty cool, and the red LED sweep options) and voltmeter.

Out of the package the faceplate looks very small. Much smaller that I was expecting, it has to fit within the vent, but somehow the pictures made it seem bigger. However this turned out not to be a Con, but rather made the gauge very stealth. I love that I don't have the 3 dingleberrys hanging off my A pillar like my Z had for the same gauges this one display does. Also the brightness and crispness of the OLED screens make the display much more legible than one might think looking at pictures. It is very clear and easy to discern from a glance. As far the post above being concerned with the heat going through the air vent, all of the soldering and circuitry looks top notch. It would take more heat than a heater vent can put out to melt this solder job. Plus they have been in Subies and other cars for a while and tested that aspect so I am not at all concerned about the heat or cold coming through the vent.

As for the AC reaching me, it is only 85 here is Texas where I live, but the vent still seems to blow as much air on me as it did before and the move-ability of the louvers remains intact so I can still direct the air. I don't see an issue here either.

As for instal, I ran silicone vac line through firewall at main wire harness boot. Then over the top of the round roll bar behind dash (mainly to stay above steering linkage) It then pops out right behind the air vent as if it was ment to take that route. The electrical is pretty simple. Just power from fuse 12 (also powers my homelink mirror. And ground to bolt on lower metal dash support, just below fuse box.

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My only con is more of a suggestion. Mounting the pressure sensor seemed challenging. Only because our car does not allow a good place to zip tie or screw to that I could find and the boost sensor does not have screw tabs. So I used double sided tape on the back and stuck it to the plastic on the inside below the air vent. My suggestion is that perhaps the double sided tape could com pre attached on the boost sensor for our car's version. Simple fix none the less.

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I give this product out of 5!