First off, I am trying to zip tie all of the areas that come close to the drive shaft or the exhaust. I had to zip tie some areas of the WB cable to the other O2 sensor wire. Will that mess with the signal at all? My question is on the LC-1, how close can the cable come to the exhaust? It's about 2-2.5 inches away right now.

 

you should be fine...

on both counts...

I only have the wideband + cable going through to under the car, the plug + lc1 controller + wires are in the cabin (under my footrest actually :P)

 

does the body where the WB clicks into the other section get hot at all? I have it mounted under the glove box.

 

probably, but not hot enough to worry anything...

you obviously don't want the wiring to be touching the exhaust...

power/gnd's are much more important IMHO

 

yeah, power and grounds are all good. I had to crimp a lot of the wiring, but all of the ones I could get to go soldered.

 

Lc1?

 

yes the LC-1

 

well just see how you go...

if things start going weird then you know you have problems

 

what's the typical AFR for a stage 2 X?

 

dunno... depends on the tune.

but 11.5 is pretty popular..

any richer and the car knocks or sounds grumpy..

any leaner and its a bit dangerous

but do some pulls and make sure your LC1 signal is clean and reliable.

then clear the calibration and redo them to make sure your getting the same results..

then tune

 

just driving around the car is showing mid 15's to 16's... is that normal?

 

14 -16 is pretty normal.

if you can find a straight bit of road and put cruise control on it should be 14.5-15.2ish..

idle same thing

 

hey man, do you know how to link up the WB and the ATR software or do I have to have 2 programs open and log them both? I haven't tried it yet because i'm waiting to get the ATR software emailed to me.

 

In ATR it's just in the Edit -> Configure Options under the tab named LM-1. You check the Enable button and go from there.

 

ok, now I need to know... the WB is already blinking at me so I guess the free air calibration wasn't enough... can I recal it while it's in the exhaust?