Dear Forum Members,


I am beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I will be paying off my 2010 Evo X GSR at the end of February 2016. I promised myself that I would keep it COMPLETELY stock until this was done (What good is a warranty if you void it right). When it's paid off, I am planning to do some performance mods and my budget is $3,000 TOTAL (not including labor). Please keep in mind a few things:


#1. I will NOT be tracking my car.
#2. It will still be my daily driver.
#3. I'm 37 years old so I don't want some car with a loud *** exhausts and all that other bs.
#4. I want the mods to give me more power but keep the Evo in the "safe zone" so the odds of damage are still relatively low.
#5. Looking for TOTAL HP to be around 400 HP.
#6. Want car to be able to pass emissions WITHOUT having to change stuff around.




With that being said, Here are the items I'm looking to get. I'm still doing research on the different manufacturers but will probably be going with one of the more well known ones (Ex. Cobb, AMS, etc).


1. AMS Front Mounted Intercooler ($750)
2. AMS Upper Intercooler Piping ($310)
3. AMS Lower Intercooler Piping ($310)
4. AMS HIGH FLOW Cat ($370)
5. AMS Performance Intake ($360)
6. Whatever ECU Flash or Tune needed ($ ? ? ? ?)
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$2,100 So far not including the ECU item


My questions for you guys are:


#1. Would these parts + a ECU flash/retune (Don't really know if those are the same or different) get me to the 400 HP that I'm after?


#2. Are there any other parts I need? I'm not sure if I need something extra for the exhaust other than the High Flow Cat.


#3. Would this setup still allow me to pass emissions (Phoenix, AZ)?


#4. Would I need to purchase a new clutch as well or will the stock clutch be able to handle this new power?


ANY help you guys can give would GREATLY be appreciated.




Thank You.


Lando

 

HUGE DISCLAIMER: I'm a new Evo owner as well (2 months) and it's practically stock.. so just basing this off my research so far....if I'm wrong, anyone else can correct me, just trying to help him out.

1.) No I doubt it would get you to 400whp. Full bolt-ons was around 350 on avg, yeah there were some ridiculous ones that were in the 375+ but those require some extreme tuning to my knowledge. To go for 400+ without serious modding is gonna require e85 or meth at the bare minimum.

2.) The full turboback includes the downpipe, the cat/testpipe (which you already mentioned you're getting a HFC for emissions purposes), and the exhaust which you already mentioned as well. So just the downpipe which usually comes in a recirculated, or dump. In which case you'd prolly go for recirc based on what you've said. The dump will typically give you more power, but you said you're trying to stay away from loud, and the dump to my knowledge gets louder once you get past a certain threshold but can be bearable at lower rpms.

3.) Yeah.... you should. I mean as long as you don't get a ****ty hfc that would still throw a CEL, you should be fine. The reason for the "..."'s was that I mean technically, changing your cat at all if it still functions properly is supposed to be a no no by the books, but I mean c'mon nobody is THAT by the books.

TLDR, doesn't throw CEL, you should be fine even with a random *** visual inspection.

4.) For what you have listed there, no.

As for your question regarding the reliability. As long as your doing the proper maintenance bolt-ons are still in the safezone assuming everything is installed properly.

 

Lando, take a look at this post to get an idea of where you're starting: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...100-stock.html

Stock:
238hp
254tq

Tune with a panel filter and a 3-port boost controller:
288hp
292tq

Much above 300whp on a mustang dyno and you start getting close to running out of fuel.
So, add to your mods:
3-port boost controller $90-$120
Fuel pump $150-$250
1000cc injectors $457

With the fuel, you can probably get up to 350whp on a Mustang dyno. If you were on a DynoJet that would be getting you closer to your 400hp number.

Moore got an "adjusted" 400hp on their DynoJet:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...408-397-a.html
Fuel: 93 Octane
Mods: Moore Automotive 3.5" Velocity Stock Intake
AMS Upper and Lower Piping
AMS Intercooler
MAP Open Dump Downpipe
3" Custom Test Pipe and Straight-Pipe Exhaust
Kelford 214-C Cams
GSC Valve Springs with Ti Retainers
Tial QR Blow Off Valve
Pierburg 3-Port EBCS

Just some data points for you. You can peruse the Dyno Results forum for hours looking at the setups of 400hp cars all day if you want but a lot of it will come down to your tuner. Good luck!

 

Guys,


Thanks for the info. Keep in mind I'm a NOOB so I had to lookup the definitions of about 5 things you guys mentioned. lol. I DO want to stay with the stock 93 octane.


Splatti: Just to clear up on your post, are you saying that if I do the 6 mods I listed, along with the 3 you listed (fuel injectors, boost controller, and fuel pump) I would be looking at around 350HP? ? ? Also, with boost controller, does it REALLY matter if I do electronic or manual? Since I don't know too much, I was looking to go with something like the Grimmspeed 3-port boost controller since its plug & play directly into the Evo X wiring harness (no cutting or splicing).




Gh3ttoRoM3o: Just to clear up your post, do I need to purchase any other "exhaust" parts? I'm assuming that the High Flow Cat just replaces the existing cat and everything else connects to that. Is that correct?


I will do more research but a gain of about 112HP would be a VERY noticeable improvement. The suggestions you guys gave, along with the parts I was already planning to buy, puts me right at around $3,000. Any ESTIMATE on how much a tuner shop would charge to install all this stuff and do a tune?

 

Correct the HFC will replace your existing cat. Depending on your HFC size, you may need an adapter. For instance the ETS testpipe I got needs an adapter on both sides (side that connects to the stock downpipe, and the side that connects to the catback since I believe the size is 2.5 diameter for the stock (don't quote me on that). Main reason it's sitting in my closet until my dump and ets extreme get here (well that and getting everything together for my next tune). I would suggest doing the full turboback (downpipe/hfc(you already got)/catback), cause I mean 2.5" into a 3" into 2.5" that just don't sound right at all. Shop around join facebook swap groups, there are a ton of great deals. Got an ETS testpipe with bung and adapter for $150 including shipping.

As for being very noticeable, A good chunk of that appears to be solely the tune from my perspective. Liek I mentioned my car is mostly stock and I'm sure you read that the stock tune is conservative as f*ck, I literally have only a tune and a bunch of parts sitting in my closet. I went the etune route early just cause there was a deal for $150 for an etune.

Just to give you an idea how much just the tune alone does:

Edit: As for the pro tune at a shop it varies, I typically see between $350 - $500. Installing varies as well, if you're getting a tune done there, I'm sure they'll cut you a pretty decent discount. My opinion just install it yourself. They're called bolt-ons for a reason, the hardest one will be the Downpipe from what I read, and even that there's 2 in-depth tutorials on this great site #brownnose.

 

Ok, cool. I'll shop around. I wasn't really sure about going the "used" route, but if you say it's reliable, I'll look at it again. I just know there are some things that are best to buy new but I'm sure all of these parts don't fit in that category. I've been looking on the LancerShop.Com Website and found some good prices on NEW parts. Maybe I can get a good deal looking for them used as well. So far (this will change I'm sure) this is what I'm looking at:


1. AGP FMIC and Hardpipes package (Upper and Lower Intercooler Pipes + Intercooler) https://www.lancershop.com/customer/...cat=162&page=1 $975


2. Turbo XS TurboBack Exhaust System (Catback Exhaust + Downpipe/Frontpipe + High Flow Cat pipe) https://www.lancershop.com/customer/...cat=144&page=1 $845


3. AGP Cold Air Intake System https://www.lancershop.com/customer/...cat=117&page=1 $235


4. Grimmspeed 3 port Electronic Boost Controller http://www.maperformance.com/grimmsp...shi-evo-x.html $126


5. Deatschwerks 1000cc Fuel Injectors https://www.lancershop.com/customer/...cat=152&page=1 $490


6. Bosch 044 Fuel Pump https://www.lancershop.com/customer/...cat=152&page=1 $200


7. ECU Flash $ ? ? ? ?


GRAND TOTAL of $2,871 if I buy ALL parts new without the ECU flash/tune. That is under my $3,000 budget so I'm a happy guy. I'm sure I can even find cheaper prices as I do more and more research.

 

Lando - That will put you in a good place for your goals and the mods will all support more HP later if you decide to go bigger turbo.

 

Tune plus install on all of that you are probably looking at another 1500-2 grand.

 

TacTrix OpenPort is $160 New from the official site: http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?opt...id=6&Itemid=53

I would recommend getting that extension cable so you can put your laptop in the passenger seat. ($5 ebay or $15 official site)

ECU FLash itself is free: http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?opt...ize=font-large



Some people have mixed feelings on eBay, personally I think it can be an awesome place to get some parts. Obviously you have to judge each item on an individual basis like there's some parts I would never personally buy off eBay.

But for instance you going with a Grimspeed 3 Port, I thought about it at first but my Tuner Rick from RRE convinced me otherwise to go towards a Cobb unit so I of course am going to listen to my personal tuner. If you're positive on the grimspeed though (I'm not knocking it though cause there are A LOT of people running grimspeeds on these forums with no problem at all) GrimSpeeds pop up "new" on eBay all the time. Just look at it right now for you:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grimmspeed-Electronic-Boost-Controller-EVO-10-X-EBCS-/271738458801?hash=item3f44dfd2b1&vxp=mtr
$102 free shipping as a Buy It Now, not even auction. Condition: New.

That's another $20 saved.

TLDR: eBay is an option for some parts. Re-Emphasis on shop around.

Also personally I don't know anything about those AGP and the TurboXS turbo back. So I'm not going to act like I do, but see if you can find clips and see what they sound like if you care about sound at all. I don't know if that $3000 was a hard limit you're willing to drop on your car for its lifetime in mods (I highly doubt it), or if that's how much you're willing to spend right now, but (once again my opinion) I'd buy the more embraced brands.

I can't think of anything more gay than replacing a part that's not oem later down the line. You don't have to get everything done at once.

 

Gh3ttoRoM3o,


I'm still early in the deciding phase of what I'll want to purchase. I know stuff from companies like Cobb and AMS are highly used and they are popular for a reason. I live in Phoenix and AGP is a company (who've I've never heard of until the other day) who makes performance parts but it "seems" their specialty is turbos. They are also right down the road in Tempe, AZ. Having a company that is local would come in handy IF there were any issues. If you search online there are some people on the DODGE forums who have used their parts and seem to be very pleased with them. I'm thinking that since AGP doesn't have the name recognition like Cobb, they HAVE to sell their products for cheaper in order to compete. If you are selling parts for the same price as the big boys, why would buy one of your parts over theirs unless it was either #1) Cheaper in price and/or #2) some GREAT warranty on the part(s). I'll keep doing more research but AGP is definitely on the radar for me going with them for parts.