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How much power can the 4B11 handle.....

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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 10:28 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by DG Motors
Here is another video of a car we built and tuned that was making 600+whp on 31psi (VP Import Fuel) on a stock bottom end other than arp rod bolts:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J766x11b6LM
cant claim stock bottom end with rodbolts....

rod bolts are a MUST above 450IMHO,heres some carnage

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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 02:24 PM
  #77  
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^^^ what kind of power was being made on that block before the carnage struck???
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 05:35 PM
  #78  
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449 haha
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 08:45 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by SOEuro
cant claim stock bottom end with rodbolts....

rod bolts are a MUST above 450IMHO,heres some carnage



Ok well we made 630 on a gt4088, bone stock bottom end, 29/30 psi on 93 Octane....no rod bolts. Stock Ecu as well...

We have plenty of other cars running in the 410-435whp range for months now no problems...blouch 2.0, FP Red, 35r all 26+psi and 93 Octane...

Here is a stock turbo on E-85 making 450wtq @ 33psi:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...k-turbo-5.html

Here is another FP Red:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-dg-tuned.html

IMHO the limits are much higher than 450whp....ETS had their car running 680whp for a long time....I would safely say 550whp is considered time for a rod bolt upgrade from what we have been doing.

Last edited by DG Motors; Dec 7, 2009 at 08:49 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 08:49 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by DG Motors
Ok well we made 630 on a gt4088, bone stock bottom end, 29/30 psi on 93 Octane....no rod bolts. Stock Ecu as well...
Its amazing what you can make with a Dyno dynamics.. 1 car makes 600 on IMPORT and another 630 on 93..

Mike
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 04:06 AM
  #81  
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HKS tested Engine and SST and I think HKS is a company to trust their results !!

Result:

(*1) SST is strong enough as long as it is used less than the strength limitation of stock engine, which is 53kg-m(519Nm).
Therefore, boost pressure at middle rpm range needs to be kept low to reduce torque with EVC.

(*2) It is recommended to use less than torque 55kg-m(539Nm) even engine internal parts are upgraded.
Due to torque control of SST, engine RPM and vehicle speed may not synchronize well.
With EVC, boost level at middle rpm range needs to be limited to control maximum torque.

The shaft is limited to 620NM !
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 05:45 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Mike@AwdMotorsports
Its amazing what you can make with a Dyno dynamics.. 1 car makes 600 on IMPORT and another 630 on 93..

Mike
Yea it truly is right?!?

One car is utilizing a Twinscroll GT4088 to achieve 630 on 93 Octane..

One car is utilizing a Singlescroll HTA3586.

Both great turbos for big power!

The car on Import had intentions to keeping the motor together. The car with the GT4088 was truly a test bed and we stopped at roughly 30psi on pump gas (93 Octane) for the night.

Thanks!
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 09:46 AM
  #83  
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Glad to see this back on topic. Looks like the stock block is safe in the low 600 range with proper tuning. Obviously we have seen a few of the stronger companies push out a few 700+ tunes but I think at least one of those blew up (correct me if I'm wrong).
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 11:41 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Gump
Glad to see this back on topic. Looks like the stock block is safe in the low 600 range with proper tuning. Obviously we have seen a few of the stronger companies push out a few 700+ tunes but I think at least one of those blew up (correct me if I'm wrong).
ETS (the bone stock bottom end) blew and I'm not sure about DG's.

How much would it cost to have rod bolts installed?
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 08:08 PM
  #85  
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If you live anywhere in chicago i'll do it for ya : ) nevermind i just saw you're in harrisburg
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 08:21 AM
  #86  
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Any updates?
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 09:11 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by SOEuro
449 haha
you got a mean signature.
where did you get that?
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 02:19 PM
  #88  
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I wouldn't blame it on the rod bolts just because they are broken. I have a rod snapped right in half just like those pics above, but the rod bolts are in tact. Another one on the other hand is completely mangled.

My advice to anyone getting ready to push over 450-500hp and actually drive the crap out of your car and not have some dyno queen. Spend some money now on a good rod like the Manley Turbo Tuff and a Wiseco piston. I think the stock sleeves will easily be good over 700hp with no issue. Once you break one of these little rods, it costs a lot to replace everything. I ruined my motor from the pan to the head...oil pump, tensioner, chain, pistons broke, bent valves, etc etc. It was a complete loss.

I think they can handle 5-600 on the stock motor with good tunes but it is just a matter of time. Mine took good power for awhile, but it was a lot of strain over time and regardless of your financial situation...its a heartbreaker


Last edited by DRAG; Jan 25, 2010 at 02:49 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 04:53 PM
  #89  
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in Australia we have a problem where labour AND parts are extremely expensive.

if one was todo the absolute minimum what would it be?

just rod bolts from below?
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 07:28 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by DRAG
I wouldn't blame it on the rod bolts just because they are broken. I have a rod snapped right in half just like those pics above, but the rod bolts are in tact. Another one on the other hand is completely mangled.

My advice to anyone getting ready to push over 450-500hp and actually drive the crap out of your car and not have some dyno queen. Spend some money now on a good rod like the Manley Turbo Tuff and a Wiseco piston. I think the stock sleeves will easily be good over 700hp with no issue. Once you break one of these little rods, it costs a lot to replace everything. I ruined my motor from the pan to the head...oil pump, tensioner, chain, pistons broke, bent valves, etc etc. It was a complete loss.

I think they can handle 5-600 on the stock motor with good tunes but it is just a matter of time. Mine took good power for awhile, but it was a lot of strain over time and regardless of your financial situation...its a heartbreaker

Good info, being a old honda guy and FINALLY getting an evo, its good to see insight from someone who has experience



As for the minimum to do to be safe is head bolts and rod bolts but like drag said, its much cheaper to do it before it blows then after...the best advice would be to stick to bolt ons and a tune....once u start pushing a car and its on the edge someone can fart in front of ur car and mess up ur afr and make ur engine knock then its all over before u know it (had this happen on a couple platforms)

when it comes to build go fast cars theres 2 kinds of people, those who do preventive maintenance and those who do repair maintenance...u just have to decide which is more cost effective for u...if ur not gonna push to the limits then no need to build until something happens cuz most like it will be something minor like a ring land or bent valve but on the other hand pushing it u could need to replace the long block completely.
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