I have been traveling a bunch and have had no time to work on my car, but I finally got a couple days and pulled the motor. Last night I started taking the motor apart. There are a few scratches, but not too bad.



That is a big fat pin.


I didn't have a good way to hold the motor still while I whipped the crank pulley off, so the 8 Bud Lights I pounded down said to try this. I'm used to the nifty little Honda wrench that makes this so easy. Thank goodness for the inspection windows I put in the block or I would have had to make a tool


Where did the friggin oil pump go? Oh...that's it loose in the bottom of the pan


The orientation seems a little off to me


And now to the good news. The head is OK! Thank goodness. Two severely bent intake valves that came from the hole with the rotated piston and 2 cracked guides. Other than that, looks all good.


Cracked guide




I have a few heads to port before I can dive into this, but it is time to make some decisions and order some parts

Are there any other rod options out there besides the K1s, Manleys, and Grodens? I know the Manleys are nice, but I can't justify $800 for a standard I-beam rod. Those certainly do not look like the Turbo Tuffs we put in the Honders.

 

i want to spray sooo bad

 

And all the X haters were saying the aluminum 4B11 wont handle power like the cast iron 4G63. LOL.

Glad to see someone actually wants to demolish their motor for the sake of the community. You and TheSin are heroes, he is taking care of the SST and you with the 4B11. I definitely would like to see where you can take this motor after the rebuild, 1000HP club anyone? That would be sweet!

 

I might have missed it, but did you figure out what happen? We had a similar situation when the factory rod bolts gave up on us. Good Luck! We just finished our built motor today.

Thanks,

Michael

 

Epic.

 

Michael,

I'm 90% certain the torque spike was just too much for the rods. I didn't break the rod bolts, but 2 rods broke in half right at the base of the neck, just above the journal. That is a very thin part of the rod and I believe that to be one of the major weak points in this motor. All the other damage was a result of the rods breaking. I think it is pretty safe to say that the OEM cylinder sleeves are plenty reinforced. Obviously they aren't going to handle the extreme boost pressures of a 4G without distortion, but you don't have to run nearly as much boost to make = power given the same turbo.

Just to give an idea of what a powerband is like with a big shot of spray like this on a stock turbo, when we were doing pulls on my VIII on a smaller shot, I hit the gas at 4500 rpm where it was taking 50hp to turn the wheels in 3rd, and in 300rpm (4800) the car had spiked to 490whp and 515wtq. On larger shots over 615. I showed the graph to some friends and it made for some good laughs with the line shooting straight up, but pretty well explains why I love driving nitrous cars. Sticks you in the seat like no other, but falls off when compared to something like your big turbo car My X on the other hand makes 80hp more than my VIII did off the hose, makes more power lower in the powerband, and I was spraying quite a bit more, so I can only imagine exceeding well over 700wtq right off the hit. It was a mistake on my part in the midst of trying to put on a good show against some friends with some rowdy *** 9 and 10 second cars. It isn't so good on roll races with high hp cars except that you jump out real hard and they have to come back, but on the street it digs in real hard for the first 500 feet.

 

hahah.. Sounds like a beast of a car! Can't wait to see what's in the future. Props for being different!

Thanks,

Michael

 

One other thing...I don't know how much info has been released on this cylinder head and intake manifold, but I do know that a few shops and vendors here were complaining about the exhaust port on this motor when compared to a 4G. The 4G is unconventional in that the exhaust flows exceptionally well in relation to the intake port (which flows like complete dog *****) That doesn't mean the exhaust port is good. I didn't see a lot of good info shared on this head, but it really is one of the best OEM castings that I have ever seen. Actually the port casting is better than my Honda K20, but the Honda is capable of huge flow due to the port volume and good combustion chamber. The short turn radius on the 4B11 transitions to the valve very smooth, where the 4G casting looks like a set of stairs. Tons to be gained on a 4G with simple porting...you won't find those gains here, so don't waste your money on basic port work. If you need the extra port volume for alcohol or tons of power, then that is a different story. Also, I'm afraid the vendors that said the exhaust port sucks are going to try and go in there to "fix" the port, but Mitsu clearly did some of these things for a reason. There is a hump right in the short turn on the exhaust side, which IndyEVO and I were talking about last night and it probably is there to direct the air to the roof of the port and keep the air speed up. The intake port is a very straight path to the valve and very smooth. Sometimes on ports where the short turn makes a more abrupt turn, the air speed can be too high and pass over the short turn and not make a smooth transition around the valve. That is not an easy thing to see on a flow bench and most benches don't have the capability to measure air speed anyway, but you will see it on the dyno.

The intake manifold is really nice as well. I haven't flowed the head with the manifold on it yet, but don't go out wasting money on a manifold just yet.

I'll post some pictures and charts comparing this to an EVO9 head and then we will let everyone bicker over that

 

Great Observation. We noticed the same thing when we took the broken motor apart. The 4b11 is turning out to be a real competitor.

Michael

 

okay serious question. Do you think it will be okay to spray a 75 or 100 shot on my Evo 8 FP red on E-85 at 33psi? lol, is my stock motor going to stay in one piece? I never thought about spraying becuase i am running so much boost but you got me thinking!! damn.....

 

It all depends on how low you spray. Put a window switch and don't allow it to spray below a certain rpm.

Take your dyno chart and at every rpm point take your horsepower + nitrous x 5252/RPM to get tq. I have exceeded 500wtq on the stock motor, but stay under that to be safe.

I hope DG doesn't mind me borrowing this chart, but the Dyno Dynamics chart makes it easy on me for this example.


3000 rpm - 100hp + 100 shot = 200x5252/3000 = 350wtq
3500 rpm - 180hp + 100 shot = 280x5252/3500 = 420wtq
4000 rpm - 240hp + 100 shot = 340x5252/4000 = 446wtq
4500 rpm - 270hp + 100 shot = 370x5252/4500 = 431wtq

etc, etc, etc.

Start small with like 50hp jetting because these cars react a little different than a naturally aspirated car because you get a cooling effect. I have seen cars pick up 90whp from a "50 shot" but it just depends. For the 100 shot, start out by taking our 7 degrees of timing or so, then add back in from there. People always think they are killing power, but having too much timing with nitrous will kill power, and motors It really is safe if you do not abuse it. It is just power output. Also, you can get a progressive controller and ramp it in real smooth and make the power curve do whatever you want...then you could run a much larger shot.

 

Also realize that with the nitrous and E85, you have a TON of fuel in that little port and that is killing airflow. The nitrous will make it burn, but something to think about.

 

JB Weld and Duct Tape Will be good as new.