I run it on a Red for my IX. It is a good oil, and I prefer it because of cost, availability and so far good oil analyses I have gotten back. BR recommends it for their motors, FP recommends it for their turbos.

 

BBX is on the list.

 

for the people using brad penn, u giys using regular? semi-synthetic? synthetic?

 

oh ok... I missed that... not the first time i've done that... I thought that power output looked a little high for just a built motor with no bigger turbo.

 

So with what I have seen, running M1 15x50 is good to run right? but what does AMSOIL recommend? I totally didnt know about the FP guys saying dont run M1 thats kind of scary lol

 

FP recomended RD50 from AMS Oil. I think it is one of there race oils.

 

Yes you are correct:

many folks like TTP engineering, Curt Brow, AWDmotorports (I THINK), and a hand full of members that will stay nameless, runing high 700+ horsepower evos here on the forums run this oil

 

I have seen a lot of FP Blacks cease up or fail while using Mobil1.

 

i heard about the same case you are talking about while using Mobil 1 but remember guys its the off the shelf mobil,,, so the chips are linning up, oil formulas for the comon markets are being diluted to less better antiwear additives, while this is ok for my 2010 camry V6 its not good for the evo runnin 26psi 400 WHP + or any other performance car thats pushing it.

i like how this thead has kept its cool and infomative,,

 

no reason to get scared, just be aware of which oils will not benefit your engine, pick a good quality and a good group 4 oil.

FP guys are telling us what they see they work in the field and get to do failure analysis on all turbos returned,, in all honnesty when you have a stock frammed turbo with in some cases a wheel alsmost the size of a 35R yeah you need to give your best to reduce failure posibilities, with racing oils or oils and filters that protect 120%.

 

WTF, this is the first I heard of FP warning people not to use M1. M1 is the factory called for oil. I would like to see this in writing.

 

When I bought my black, Robert at FP specifically told the shop, and then me when I called him to confirm, that M1 shouldn't be used. The thread linked above explains in detail, but you need better oil than M1. Amsoil 10w40, 20w50 for track cars, 5w30 for DD. Brad Penn is decent stuff too, but I don't know them, so I dont trust them. I can spend a few extra bucks to know 100% my oil is top notch.

 

Hey guys, I just wanted to add another data point directly from FP on this matter.

I contacted FP tech support and posed this very question to them. They did confirm that M1 5w-30 and 10w-30 were not recommended for Red and Black Turbo's.

I, however, was told that the Green turbo's do not have this recommendation due to the fact that green turbo's maintain brass thrust bearings and the phosphorous and zinc additives in motor oils such as Brad Penn (and other racing oils) do not bond to brass.

When the subject of vicosity came about, FP stated that high HP green turbo's (+400whp)should switch to a slighly thicker oil (maybe 15-40) for a little more protection.

With that being said, even if you have a green turbo, it may be advisable to switch to an oil with higher Zinc and phosphorous content simply for the engine's components.

On a side note, they also stated they have never seen a green come back for warranty work due to oiling issues.

Anyone running 15-40 without issue here?

 

I am going to have to do the RD50 to hard to find the brad penn. Thanks for all the great info.