Based on previous experience there are no significant benefits of an aftermarket flywheel. Less rotational mass helps slightly with spool but there are slight driveability issues such as bucking at low rpms...like stop and go traffic or drive throughs etc....irritating having to ride the clutch so much...personal opnion but I will never go with one again. Dont get me wrong...there great for six and eight cylinders but a four shows hardly any difference IMO.

 

From my readings I hear people prefer the stock flywheel. More specifically the weight of it. A lighter weight doesn't make the car dd friendly. Just my two cents from what I picked up along the way. Check into it.

 

remember to remove your Clutch delay pill guys .... thats what eating the stock clutch thats why people have short clutch life

 

wow , this is so funny , im just about on 15k miles and my clutch is slipping major to the point i wont take her out as i wanna leave enough bite when i gotta drive to the shop instead of being towed.

its a 2011 gsr that i got used with 11k miles ( 1 owner was a girl)
ofcourse she had it stock and i added an intake,uicp,licp,high flow cat , cat back exhaust and a cobb ap ots tune plus suspension mods of coilovers and rims.

that being said im done with adding more power and may even back of the higher boost as i assume that helped to kill the stock clutch.

That being said i need to get it done this week or next week so i gotta find the rite clutch.

funniest thing is everybody recomends a different clutch.

i origionally was between the Spec stage 2 and the clutch master fx200 as i want a mild clutch thats a good daily driver and was told since the fulcrum design is different than exedy or Act its less stress on the CMC so it last longer before failure ( and i cant afford to buy and have installed a new CMC now )

now MAP recomends the clutchmasters
and RRE recomends the Act 2900 but also the cmc upgrade aswell
and Topspeed recomends the Competition clutch
and a few members pm me recomending the SPEC

so their are so many different opinions

im going to have the oem flywheel resurfaced but that plus labor and a new clutch is gonna set me
back around $2000 ive been quoted by most places in the area as not to many shops and the ones that are r high end ones ( Forged performance or Topspeed )

So im just as curiuos to see what clutch to get as i need mine done also asap but my motives are for more DD with a nice quiet smooth operation with no sqeeking or chattering and light pedal feel . Since i dont need any drag clutch but a nice clutch for spirited dd for a person that lives in Ga. that has a ton of hills and ocd mind that noises would bother me.

So something not oem but slightly able to handle mor power without losing drivability.

marc>

SO im open to ideas as well u guys are.

 

+1 and do the AMS clutch master cylinder upgrade kit

 

Wow,

Glad that I am not the only one who is having clutch issues after 15k miles. I guess I just have been pushing the clutch and car harder than it can handle, but I like many here bought my car to really drive it. The hell with OEM clutches I will be doing a twin disc before any more big purchases other than suspension and wheels.... really need those!

 

I would STRONGLY urge you not to get an aluminum flywheel if this is your daily driver. Unbelievably loud and "harsh". ACT's Streetlite is honestly the only one I would recommend. It basically weighs what the stock flywheel would weigh if resurfaced but adds a different metal compound into the mix which I can only describe as awesome.

Less rotational mass helps with a lot more than just spool. It helps with acceleration. 2.0L motors have extremely low torque/power at low rpm's. Lightening the load on our tiny motors while the turbo is waiting to start breathing helps immensely. Unless you're launching off the line every time you leave a stop light, a lighter flywheel will make a huge difference in how long it takes you to get to the optimal rpm range.

 

[QUOTE=NeedBoost!;10707295]I would STRONGLY urge you not to get an aluminum flywheel if this is your daily driver. Unbelievably loud and "harsh". ACT's Streetlite is honestly the only one I would recommend. It basically weighs what the stock flywheel would weigh if resurfaced but adds a different metal compound into the mix which I can only describe as awesome.


How does being made out of a different metal composition make it awesome? Don't most replace the Flywheel when doing a clutch? I am assuming it would depend on the type of flywheel you mate to the clutch correct?

 

I wouldn't say most. Drivability usually plummets with swapping flywheels.

 

a heavier flywheel has more mass and helps with getting off the line and starting to move because it has more inertia, you will feel like you lost torque with a lighter flywheel and have to give it more gas to not bog because it has less inertia when you engage it. thats the only negative to a lightened flywheel imo.

 

1) the lost torque feel is just the initial engagement, once moving gears engaged should feel smother and quicker rise in RPMs no?

2) also heard some complaints about lightweight fly wheels on start up, starting like a jet some say, i assume this could also be a problem solved with a tune?

3) last question. some complain about a noisy gear box due to lightweight flywheels, are there some noisier than others, or is this an install issue.

IMHO id rather sacrifice a little bit of effort engaging first gear for the lighter weight flywheel, just like most things i see this being something you get used to driving, and wouldn't be a problem for long. had a lightweight flywheel before but it was on 6 cylinder. I would not be alright with it if it was extremely noise or if it started up "badly", permanently.

 

Going to a stronger clutch like carbon will let you pull and last longer without breaking the bank. Doing pulls in 4th gear to test your clutch would probably be my last suggestion as that could finish off a used up clutch

 

I've been plagued with short clutch life ever since the purchase of my 2008 GSR. First clutch went at 5k, and now on my 5th clutch at 33k miles. There must be something that is broken and/or defective but my mechanic cannot find anything wrong. When replacing the clutch, we always include a new pressure plate and a flywheel and TOB; I think only once we've resurfaced the flywheel because it was a heavy duty fly and had plenty of thickness left. Anyway, want to know if anyone has any suggestions on why I would be having such short clutch life. I don't ever launch my car or ride the clutch but do drive agressively. I've had Exedy stage 1, stage 2, Act HD, and Competition Clutch with either heavy duty flys or light but never the ultra light flys. It's fine in the beginning and throughout the breakin period but usually just starts slipping a couple thousand miles later. I haven't felt this in the past but my clutch pedal now vibrates too. Please help! Need suggestions! Thanks!

 

Have you considered having someone else who can shift ride along with you to correct your shifting style? If you don't race and you don't launch but ur burning thru flywheels and clutches either your mechanic suck (doubtful) or he is letting you pay his bills and letting u kill ur clutches

 

perhaps; after all, it is my dd and there is some stop and go. but never had clutches in any other vehicles that last less than 15k; 5k clutch life seems oddly suspicious of other problems. if there is a problem with my driving style, I guess I should see a burned up flywheel before the clutch is even worn out; that would suck to have the clutch taken apart completely at 3,000 mile interval for inspections, LOL. I'm going to have someone check to see if perhaps the clutch is NOT engaged fully because of my CMC or something along that line. it's just not making any sense.