i can try to send u the map by email if ur a tuner so u can look at all the settings... im currently not home but am anxious to see what ur take is on this.... msg me and i also pm u...

 

I don't need to inspect the tune. You ran out of injector; end of story. The sad horrible part is that you trusted a "tuner" to tune your brand new EVO MR and he sent you out the door with a ticking time-bomb.

He should have said :
"see this temperature on the dyno sheet; don't drive if it is colder than this because your already tuned beyond what is recommended for injector duty cycle..."

From the book "Street Turbocharging" by Mark Warner, Chapter 11: Fuel Injection. (if you don't own this book; buy it)

"...most fuel injectors don't behave well at a duty cycle greater than 85%; they need some time to close and rest between pulses. The more time that an injector is energized and open, the hotter it will get, and the less reliable it will behave."

It is quite possible that your injectors locked open which is why it went boom on OFF throttle. Either way (lean boom or injector stuck 100% boom) you were on borrowed time as soon as you drove in weather colder than when the 96.4% injector duty cycle was measured on the dyno. Out of raw curiosity do you have that temperature on the dyno sheet at which it was tuned?

Truly this story sucks, and I feel for ya.

I am not sure if rules dictate you can or cannot say: "TUNER XYZ sent me out the door @96.4% IDC @xx degF dyno temp and said I should be ok"...
I am awfully curious if this is any reputable shop. Not one I would want to visit.

 

With simple bolt ons you could not have maxed out your injectors or be at 94%. I would agree with Havav8 that your fuel relay may have failed and went lean. I'm guessing you don't have a wideband O2 installed. Then again it's not like I look at mine during spirit driving much. Sorry about your issue. If you fix it though make sure you replace your oil cooler and clean out every oil line. You may need to rebuild your head and also get the turbo inspected.

 

Are you joking? Your flat wrong. I hit 88% with just an intercooler and catback on a Cobb OTS (+) tune. He has even more mods. Not to mention he already clearly stated that the tuner REPORTED that was his injector duty cycle (96.4%) tuned. It is already an established fact. So there isn't really a guess or argument there. Are you really going to question what the OWNER of the car already stated? His car was brand new with 6kmi. The relay is most likely fine at 6kmi, but that would be guessing (that it died an early early death) while the injector % and temperatures are facts. The data is screaming that he either leaned out from 100% IDC and/or they stuck open at 100%.


This is why I don't bother with these forums. You can apply engineering and facts to a problem and someone can come along and drop a bomb of nonsense. The bull crap gets mixed in with the good stuff and people learning can't sort what's just regurgitated web-racing versus someone with experience.

 

yea I agree... I want to call other tuning shops and get their opinion and see what they say and see if they can vouch for me one way or another and have this shop eat the damn cost of what needs to be done.... im getting to the point that even if the tuner tries to switch the tune in the car now I still have original on my pc... so it may become a legal thing.. I hope not but hey who knows... AHHHHH

 

talked to a few performance shops today.... they said it could've been a bad fuel pump relay... idk how with only 6k on it

 

AccessPort is by definition a PiggyBack.

 

That's the way he tuned it... took an ots map and then fine tuned it...

 

Well based on my experience with tuning and engine conditions, I would say you car definitely went lean, and I am not to familiar with the X platform but I did have a Caliber SRT4 that had a pretty safe tune and I had all the gauges to monitor ST knock,and monitor my A/F so in the event conditions became unsafe I had warning lights to tell me to knock it off. I hope you get this resolved and someone can look at your data logs to see what went wrong.

 

a lot of ppl are saying the fuel pump relay need to be updated.... if that blew my s*** im pissed

 

Been following this thread--Jaraxle's assessment if likely the most correct. Others are correct as well with respect to the legal ramifications of fraud. ( but do what you will). fact of the matter is the car was modded and hell you have put it in writing for everyone to see rt here--yep even Mitsubishi.
While others may have been culpable in what happened, you allowed it to happen ( the mod) and you accepted the outcome and paid for the service--. Your focus is in the wrong place--rt now you have a 6000 mile evo that **** the bed--it doesn't matter what happened before--you cant change that, what matters is what your going to do moving forward--ie accept responsibility for your role or try and pawn it off--. The former will get you back on the road a hell of a lot quicker with a big lesson learned and mistakes realized. The latter, I cant see happening. You could try to take it to court, but small claims court is out of the picture so, that means a lawyer and a bank roll and time--a lot of time. In the mean time you continue to make car payments every month. It just becomes a he said, she said--so while you could point at the tune he will point at your rt foot--no one knows for sure and mitsu isn't going to say it was their defect. Just trying to get real here, not bash you. Good Luck.

 

first of all car is paid off... no payments... bought it outright... I know how I drove my damn car when it failed... deff was just taking a nice drive in nice weather

 

I don't know why, but I feel compelled to battle the web-racer bull $hit in this particular thread. That is NOT a piggyback. A piggyback BY DEFINITION piggyback's the OEM ECU by intercepting signals. I started tuning 15 years ago on the 4g63 using a dsmchips reflash combined with a piggyback ecu. Here is ONE example of a piggyback ecu:

http://www.apexi-usa.com/store/afc-n...anagement.html

His tune may be called a "reflash" or a "tune" but NOT by any stretch a piggyback. End of story. Standalone is just that. A complete replacement of the OEM ECU with a standalone ecu.

As for the relay being the culprit. I know a good number of tuners have seen that be the case. RoadRaceEngineering has a good break down of the failure mode. However, this car had only 6kmi and more importantly it was TUNED by a "pro" who disclosed the 96.4% IDC. There is no way he got there on the low voltage relay setting. Which means we have facts that it was the tune on stock injectors as a ticking time bomb when the temperature drops. I am not sure how anyone can frigging argue that. The relay is a guess, and not a requirement for the failure; therefore it is not relevant.

The tuner usually has you sign something that basically reads: "I can blow your car up, and am not liable".

15 years ago my Eclipse GS-T blew on the dyno and it was their fault (and a bit mine). I ate it. It's the game we play. It was nearly brand new. 2nd owner with 20kmi.

~Jaraxle

 

An AccessPort intercepts signals, alters them, and then passes them to the ECU? Since when?

edit: ninja'd by Jaraxle

ps. thanks for trying, Jaraxle, but some horses are destined to die of thirst on the bank of a river

 

Listen whether who's right or who's wrong no need to argue with this... bottom line is if ppl are posting they should want to give suggestions or options/opinions on how to get the car back up and running again...