e_kobz

iTrader: (36)

For those of you running the MAP investment cast manifold, what hardware did you use to connect the manifold and the turbo. I know the top right hole uses the long screw provided by MAP. The top left one I will be using another screw identical to the one provided by MAP only much shorter. My real question is what are you guys using for the two holes under the runners? Kind of a tight space with not a lot of room. Thanks

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

good bet an OEM bolt, or the OEM studs/nuts will fit there. Probably have to install those before the other two so that the turbo isn't up against the flange.

e_kobz

iTrader: (36)

That's what I was thinking. The studs are on the top two holes on the turbine housing. I'll try moving them to the bottom holes and see if that works. Know of any place that sells replacement studs in case they want to be stubborn and break?

psfp

OEM bolts in all holes, except the long one. Also use OEM spring washers.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I don't, and I've wanted to buy some. Use extra PB blaster and let it soak in...lol

e_kobz

iTrader: (36)

So you're telling me that the two lower bolts will fit into the same holes on the new manifold under the runners?

psfp

I am. I chose to not use the studs anymore, so I'm using bolts only. All OEM hardware.

It is very tight, but doable.

e_kobz

iTrader: (36)

Thanks for the insight I'll be trying this then for sure

evOBX

Any tips I've been fighting with the bottom left bolt for too long now. Wayyyyyyyyyyy too long lol

►EvolutionX◄

iTrader: (2)

hichamaziz

It is very tight

►EvolutionX◄

iTrader: (2)

Jaraxle

Use OEM bolts for the other 3 holes, and use OEM double belleville washers on ALL FOUR. Do not use the washer provided by MAP for the long bolt. For the bolt on the passenger side closest to the front of the car you will need a stubby 14mm wrench. I didn't have one, and picked up a set from harbor freight for under 20 bucks. It just sucks not being able to perform the proper torque procedure.

fostytou

iTrader: (15)

I was going to use the MAP hardware even though I had a bad feeling about trying to put a bolt in the head instead of a stud. I couldn't get the passenger side stud out though, so I decided to go for the jet nut from Pegasus. I did use the washers from the MAP kit under it to spread the load a little further.

I took some measurements so you know what you're looking at:

Item Outer Diamter (OD)
OE Nut 19.98 mm
OE Washer 20.04 mm
Pegasus Jet Nut 16.48 mm
MAP Bolt 15.82 mm
Map Washer 18.73 mm

I also noticed some 12 point M10 x 1.25 nuts at mcmaster carr. None are copper coated or zinc coated, but the OD should be small enough to be used. The jet nut has pretty high claims for holding ability and worked well for me so I stuck with that. I would think the non stainless high torque ones from McMaster would work fine (and might even be easier to tighten correctly): https://www.mcmaster.com/nuts/thread...rnal-12-point/

The final option would be some of the 12 point titanium M10x1.25 nut and stud kits that I've seen. Supposedly these will handle expansion / contraction better making them less likely to come loose. I don't have much experience with Ti in this area so I won't make many judgements there.

If you were in a complete bind I could see taking a small amount of the base off of the OEM nut, however I don't know how terrible this would be for it's strength or if that would completely compromise its ability to stay in place.