I recently had a local shop install a new GTX3576 Gen2 and MAP cast manifold. Since then I have had a handful of issues, the most serious being the fasteners coming loose between the turbo/manifold and between the manifold/head. This has occurred multiple times after just a few miles.

For the original install, I purchased replacement washers and nuts, OEM parts, including the two lock washers per bolt between the manifold and turbo.

Since things have been rocky with the install shop, I want to be able to tighten and torque all of those fasteners myself. Several have limited access so I am curious what tools are needed/recommended?

I know three of the bolts are hex (size?), but one in particular is obstructed by a runner. Do I need a ball hex socket to get that one at an angle or is there another method?

In a previous thread, @Jaraxle suggested a stubby 14mm wrench for the final bolt. Would a crowfoot work there instead so I could properly torque it?

Also concerning quality of tools, most of my stuff is Craftsman, is that going to be sufficient for these more unique bits?

Thanks in advance for the advice!!

 

I use craftsman and harbor freight junk! If it works, it works. I will say that since doing my install with the cast MAP manifold I have had a bunch of track days, multiple winters (massive heat cycles) and NOTHING has come loose. This is why I don't trust shops, they just aren't invested in the success (usually), but rather just a quick pay out. It has been so long, I cannot add more info than my post. The stubby set I used is from Harbor Freight and worked great. Have the link to where I mentioned that? It might joggle my memory...

 

Craftsman and harbor freight here too. I was instructed by other Evo owners that these are a must: (I haven't done any manifold work yet, but were very helpful with removing brackets off the turbo so idk if they would help here)

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piec...set-32042.html

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post11807056

Unless someone else chimes in, I will probably buy a set of stubby wrenches and a single crow foot (so I might be able to torque) for the single bolt.

The two hex bolts which are covered by runners, I am guessing I need a ball hex socket or some really short hex key wrench??

 

Thanks for the suggestion Robbie. I will keep those in mind if I run into interference issues with the manifold to head nuts.

 

You cannot use a torque wrench on a crows foot without calculating what the actual applied torque will be versus the displayed (or set) torque amount. This is because there is a lever arm created by having the fastener be off axis with the torque measurement. I did it with just the stubby and it has held for years of abuse (3 years).I have the crows feet and all sorts of attachments and extensions and was not able to get a measure on it. But like I said; base the feel on how it was with the other ones and you'll be fine.

 

Those are twelve point offset wrenches. Use at your own risk. With NEW hardware you will be ok. Anything with rust and you risk stripping the head.

 

So I emailed MAP yesterday describing my situation with things vibrating loose, asking what tools they recommended for tightening the bolts obstructed by the runners:

It shipped this morning. I am always impressed by MAP's customer service!!!

They were unable to give me a recommendation for the hex bolts which are under the runners. Do you happen to remember what you used to tighten those?

 

As I posted before, use EIGHT fresh Belleville washers from MITSU,

 

I supplied the install shop with 8 of those OEM washers, 2 for each bolt.

On my first visit they only installed 1 per bolt, on my second visit they installed them with the incorrect orientation.

Back and forth to the shop are the only miles I have put on the car, probably 60 total.

Do you think I need to replace the washers again?

Thanks for your input Jaraxle.

 

I hate stories like this. Since they are newish and not been through years of heat cycles they are fine to use. But they only work if correctly making a cup pocket to absorb the contractions of the fastener growing and shrinking. Don't forget it isn't a torque spec. Lube bolts with anti size and then it is a torque spec PLUS so many degrees beyond that. I don't have those numbers off the top of my head. I think it was 35 ft-lbs PLUS 60 degrees. With it properly secured with OEM compression washers it won't come lose. I just picked up a brandy new GTX3076R gen 2 with 4" inlet compressor cover that will be bolted to my cast MAP manifold. So by April I will be documenting some of the details of this work.

 

These look like they might be perfect for the hex bolts with the runners blocking access:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/GearWrench-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

I assume those would be superior to using a ball hex bit?

 

Offset wrenches are a must. Absolutely. Makes the job 10 times easier

 

So what I did was took a hex tool and cut it with a dremel to be able to put it under the runner. Then I took a wrench and put it over the other end and tightened it down really good..