RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

They are proven to over 700whp in the 4b11T.

I'm using the Pro-H's in my sleeved build as well. I chose them because of their weight and strength since my build is a 2.0 that I want to rev and withstand track abuse.

ddlopresti

iTrader: (1)

what type of power are you aiming for in your build?

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

For track use, whatever 24psi gives me with a PT5858. For the street, all of it?

I'm imagining it will do 600whp+ on the street.

You can follow my build here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/pr...e-build-s.html

The engine build journey starts at: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/pr...l#post11602583

ddlopresti

iTrader: (1)

any specific reason you want to stick to 24psi for the track on a built motor? will that be on pump gas or e85?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

He runs E85. 24psi will make plenty of power for track on his setup, and cooling will be more manageable. My car, for example, I can hot lap on the 24psi track tune (about 450whp). If I run the tune in my sig, which is 32psi tapering to 28, making a touch over 500whp, it will only go two laps on an average track before needing cool down for water and oil temps. On a longer track, or a track with a lot of WOT sections, it will only go one lap.

ddlopresti

iTrader: (1)

interesting. I have an upgraded mishi oil cooler so that should help with temps. How do you monitor your oil and water temps, do you use independent gauges or some bluetooth odb2? I saw a way to monitor water temps with that but not oil temps when i checked last.

For my tunes on the built motor I was thinking of running it like this.

1) 93 pump gas tune - about 420 wtq and 550 WHP on about 27 lbs of boost (where is was on the stock block)
2) e85 tune - about 460 wtq and 590-600 whp on about 31 lbs of boost
3) 93 or e85 track tune - low boost around 24 to 25 lbs.

I've done track days and long extended sessions of over 30 min and my engine temp on the center display never went up at all (on about 27lbs and 530whp), what is that based off of - that's based off of water temp right?

For the above tunes, i already have everything to run e85 at those levels and i've used the flex fuel tephra rom in the past so i like that idea but to do a third tune I'd have to flash it on for track days or do you think the 93 tune that is more conservative (#1 above) would be fine on track days with the upgraded oil cooler (especially considering e85 is hard to get at the track days and remote canyon carving driving that i do)?

With the build i'll likely have them put in a dedicated temp gauge for oil and water.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I have a zeitronix ZT2 with a display. It shows oil pressure, water temp, and oil temp. The water and oil temp share an input on the unit, so I use a switch to switch between the display showing water or oil temp. I have additional (non-oem) sensors to go with the ZT2.


The temp display on the dash is only water temp. And it's more of an idiot light than an actual temp display. It stays in one spot over a wide range of temperature. On my 8 for example, the water temp gauge on the dash doesn't really move between 180-220*


My car now has a large setrab oil cooler, so temps may stay more reasonable on the high boost tune, but my last track weekend was cut short due to breaking the radiator, I didn't get a chance to run the high boost tune. So I'm not sure. Oil temps were about 30-40* cooler than the stock oil cooler though.


Your extended 30 minute session at 530whp on 93 octane explains my your engine wore out. Coolant temp may not go way up, but heat soaking all the internal components like that is very hard on them. And your oil temps were likely through the roof.

ddlopresti

iTrader: (1)

so to keep oil temps under control for serious lapping like that what would you recommend? Bottom line is when on track I shouldn't run more than x amount of boost to keep temps down? Like i said, some of the tracks and mountain regions i go hard at for extended sessions don't have available e85 and i usually can't bring enough with me to last so what do you suggest with that in mind?

I'll be installing an oil temp and water temp gauge, i already have a mishimoto oil cooler upgrade, anything else? Is oil temp what really matters and is the true gauge of how hot the internals are?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Oil and water temp are both important. Water shouldn't get above 220 (measured at the thermostat housing), and oil shouldn't really get above 240 (measured in the oil pan).


For the X, running low boost on track is also important because the stock cylinder head runs high EGT's. Keeping boost down around 24-25 keeps EGT's more reasonable for prolonged flogging. Running gasoline, especially pump gas, I would probably only run 22-23psi for lapping on track.

ddlopresti

iTrader: (1)

how do you install the sensors, is there a port already in the oil pan and thermostat housing?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I TIG welded bungs into them.

ddlopresti

iTrader: (1)

using the torque pro app I can get water temps from my OBDII, I assume those are accurate? I'm running out of room for gauges haha. Unless you know of one where i can display water and oil temp in the same gauge (preferably at the same time rather than cycling)?

Ok - so based on the above re temps I'm gonna install an oil temp gauge and likely use torque app for water temp and keep an eye on them for sure during hot lapping sessions and if temps go up i'll just tune for lower boost until they don't. I have the stock radiator in there, maybe I should upgrade to another one? What are the best ones in your opinion?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

My car runs a stock radiator without too much issue. I'm only switching to a CSF aluminum radiator because the lower tank split at my last track day. CSF also makes an aluminum rad for the X with their Btube core tech, I would go with that one. Extra cooling never hurts.


And yes, if you have a way to monitor coolant temp through OBD2, that is 100% accurate.

ddlopresti

iTrader: (1)

cool, thanks for all of your responses I really appreciate it. Ok, i'm gonna run it once its back together and monitor oil and coolant temps and adjust the tune if necessary accordingly.

Kevin_White19

Just out of curiosity, does using the Pro-H beams in a 90mm x 94mm engine (2.4L, 0.2L overbore) make its strength rating decrease? In short, will the Carillo H-beams work well in a stroked engine putting out 600HP?