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Help in installing ETS turbo

 
Old Aug 29, 2017, 10:10 AM
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Help in installing ETS turbo

Going about installing a full ETS turbo kit, but they only offer a checklist anyone have a good resource to a similar possible build setup yo help identify parts and where they go and wrench torque specs? Any help would be appreciated.

Kit I got was

http://www.extremeturbosystems.com/E...Turbo-Kit.html

With a Garrett gtx3765
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Old Aug 29, 2017, 10:46 AM
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It's a pretty straight forward install on the 8/9. Turbo to manifold will be ~45ftlbs if you got a T3 flange. Manifold to head is ~25ftlbs IIRC. Vbands just need to be tight enough to not leak, recheck them after a few heat cycles. Make sure you use anti-seize on any faster that has to with the exhaust; turbo-manifold hardware, manifold-head hardware, vband bolt/stud, etc.
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Old Aug 29, 2017, 11:25 AM
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You can always give us a call if something doesn't make sense. I have installed/removed the turbo kit on my car many times now because we use it for mock up some times but its pretty easy.

After you get the stock turbo off and out I would recommend bolting in the oil drain adapter to the block while there is room as well as the oil feed line fitting and oil feed line.There is a rubber lined clamp that you remove one of the harness bolts from on top of the valve cover and use it to hold the oil feed line in place. After that I would put the manifold in and get it tight. Then snake the downpipe in place but just set it off to the side. After that I would clamp the gates to the dump tubes loose so you can change the clocking once in the car. After that snake the dump tubes in one at a time and clamp the dump tubes to the manifold loose again (so you can move things and get the clocking right). The dump tubes bolt together at the bottom near the downpipe. The first time it goes in I like to just set the turbo on top of the manifold and pull the downpipe up to see how the dumptubes line up below. You can put the clamps on it you want or have someone hold it in place while you check the bottom. Once your happy with how the gates and dumps fit you can pull the turbo off and tighten up those clamps and the bolt that ties them together. This is also a good time to run your vacuum lines to your wastegates. I run mine with a single line tee'd to a single bottom port of each gate with the top open and the rest of the air ports blocked off. Then I usually bolt the oil drain to the turbo and then the SS braided line I hook up to the hard line we make. Snake that through the manifold/dumps and set the turbo on top of manifold. Connect the oil drain to the block fitting you installed earlier and then you can start hooking up the clamps to the turbo and the downpipe. After this its installing the intake, oil feed line and I think that is about it. Double check everything is tight before you start it. Once you start it check for oil leaks. That is just the way I do it. You could do it different and I may have missed some things but that is a pretty general how to.

Something I did on my car was pull the power steering hose more toward the passenger side away from the downpipe. You can use mechanics wire or zip ties. If you really want to not have to worry about it you can put some heat insulation around the power steering hose and or wrap the downpipe.

- Robert
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Last edited by ETS Michael; Aug 29, 2017 at 11:32 AM.
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Old Aug 30, 2017, 08:05 AM
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Thanks a ton for help from both of you. Now I have a way better understanding how to get everything going.

my next biggest concern is heat. I did buy a turbo blanket and also a speedcuricit heat shield. I also wrapped downpipe and exhaust pipe. I took note of the steering lines to try and reorient those aware from the dumps but is there anything else of major concern I should avoid? Thought about using gold heat tape around wiring all around the manifold and turbo and currently I'm still using stock plastic valve cover. I'm assuming I need to get this changed as soon as I can.

the other thing I noticed is with the wastegates they have a ton of options. After reviewing a lot of documentation on the MVS wastegates that came with the kit I don't need the H20 connections and can leave those empty and block off all the air ones except one for the line already going in the stock wastegates on the driver side, but what about the passenger one? Also I assume my Grimm needs to go into the driver side wastegates right?
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Old Aug 30, 2017, 09:21 AM
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You need to change the valve cover immediately. If it melts and starts spewing oil, you have a recipe for disaster... (engine bay fire)
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Old Aug 30, 2017, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone View Post
You need to change the valve cover immediately. If it melts and starts spewing oil, you have a recipe for disaster... (engine bay fire)
Good place to get one for 2015? Most all ones I see online just talk about fitting 2008 through 2012.
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Old Aug 30, 2017, 10:13 AM
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Our manifold is a top mounted turbo manifold. It doesn't get close to the valve cover like the bottom mount manifolds. If you have a blanket for the turbine housing it should be fine but the aluminum valve would still be a good idea. It sounds like you have everything pretty well protected. On my car I just pulled the lines away from the downpipe, wrapped the downpipe and manifold and called it a day.

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Old Aug 30, 2017, 10:19 AM
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Think the speedcircuit one would fit 2015?

https://www.speedcircuit.net/index.php/evo-x/engine-parts/engine-hardware-gaskets/oem-aluminum-valve-cover-for-evo-x.html

Or should the MAP one be Better?

https://www.maperformance.com/products/mitsubishi-oem-aluminum-valve-cover-evo-x-1035a810?variant=5330594435&gclid=CjwKCAjwxJnNBRAM EiwA8X_-QUNyZmKxhX1i17l8EjpkAqz0rJTYQl75UuhAf5lvt5ksOzWN-ZLTLBoCRfcQAvD_BwE
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Old Aug 30, 2017, 10:27 AM
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They are both the exact same OEM part. Either will work.

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Old Aug 31, 2017, 04:09 PM
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Thank you very much, Robert, for all your help and talking to me on the phone today.

I'm still slightly confused on the overall setup. I have a Garrett GTX3576R and it didn't come with a boost source on the turbo housing and I know you talked to me earlier on the phone about just using the manifold intake system, but local shops strongly advised doing it directly to the turbo itself so I had a company here that's licensed drill and tap a 1/8npt for me into the turbo housing.

The confusion I'm having is the "plumbing" of the new system. The MVS Tial wastegates have 3 lower air ports, 2 water, mvs, and a top port. After reading what you said before and talking to you on the phone I know I need to split vacuum line to both Wastegates through a lower air port out to the Grimspeed controller (port 2) and then plug the other two lower air ports on the Wastegate since they won't be used.
I ignore the water ports, and plug the MVS port, but do I just leave the top port completely open and don't put anything there at all?

On the new boost source 1/8npt I have on the turbo housing Im assuming I just run a new hose directly from this to the Grimmspeed controller directly right? Nothing else should really be on this line that I would need to split off to?

Port 1 on the Grimspeed port just suppose to go to the Air intake, but does it matter exactly where it needs to go? Which part of the Air intake off the intercooler pipe should it run off of?

I know when installing the Grimspeed it talks about dropping the Brown stock solenoid all together, but what about the black one? Do we just drop the one boost/waste gate line but keep the air intake line on that solenoid?


On the new Turbo, I only received new oil feed and drain lines. I'm assuming that I will need to custom create new water lines. Do they have to be steel braided or are simple rubber braided lines enough? I know the stock system has hard lines running to front and back of the turbo, so not sure if it matters.

Installing also an AEM boost gauge. Is it better to have this T/split off the intake manifold main air line or somewhere else like the boost source itself?

Thank you everyone for your continued help on these questions.
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Old Sep 1, 2017, 11:23 AM
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You leave the top ports of the wastegates open.


The line for the boost gauge should go to the manifold so that it will read vacuum as well. You can tee into the BOV line, or the FPR line.
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