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Advice on head work "needed"

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Old Sep 11, 2017, 06:01 AM   #1
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Advice on head work "needed"

Hey everyone,

Just looking for some insight on my 2014 Evo X GSR. The car currently has 66k miles, full bolt ons, E85, FP Green. Making close to 480~ whp.. Stock block, stock head, etc. Motor has never been touched.

This winter, I want to do cams/springs and possibly refresh the head. Preferably Kelford 214B's. Any ideas on what springs to run, or a better cam/spring for this setup?

Also.. I checked my valves, and they are all tight and not within tolerance/spec what so ever. I was thinking about just sending the head off and having it "refreshed" including being resurfaced, new valves, valve seals, and whatever that might contain. So my question is.. am I wasting my time? Should I just re-shim the valves, put the springs/cams in and go on my way?

If anybody can give me some advice on this I would appreciate it. Not sure if I should leave things well enough alone, or get some work done while I have the car off the road for 6 months. Thanks
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Old Sep 11, 2017, 10:52 AM   #2
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Don't bother with changing valves. Valves don't really wear and your mods don't necessitate a need for larger ones, not only that but grinding seats for larger valves is pretty costly and requires new valve guides as well which adds even more expense.

I'd do a leakdown test to make sure everything is still sealing good. If that comes back good then just do the cams, springs (if needed) and valve seals (they're usually cheap so it's a good "while you're in there" thing to do). Obviously you'll want your valve lash to be in spec as well.
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Old Sep 11, 2017, 12:45 PM   #3
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Awesome, thanks for the input. I did a compression test and all 4 cylinders came back at around 135-140~ PSI which seems to be about right. Didn't think about doing a leak down, I will do that first. My catch can has been filling up rather quick, but that could relate to running over 30PSI and having the power it does I guess. Maybe not, but that's another reason I'm concerned. Although I think that relates more to my rings than anything. I'll set the valve lash myself, I believe that will vary depending on what cams you are running if i'm not mistaking. I'll have to figure all that information out.
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Old Sep 11, 2017, 12:56 PM   #4
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As for the catch can filling it can depend on a lot of things. Make sure your pcv valve isn't stuck shut. You also may need to improve the pcv system by adding more ventilation.

As for lash and cams that will depend on the base circle of the lobe on the cam. Most cams don't change base circle but you should still measure as lash can still change since the gind won't be exactly the same as stock and your tappets/lifters and cam lobe can wear which will open lash up.
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Old Sep 11, 2017, 01:14 PM   #5
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You just need to adjust the valve lash, the head doesn't need rebuilt.


For springs, go with the kelford recommended spring, or I'm sure the spring kit GSC offers will work as well.
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Old Sep 12, 2017, 06:01 AM   #6
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Thank you both for the advice. On a side note, do you think I should do ARP headstuds and replace the head gasket as well while I have the head off? Along with the valve seals as mentioned. Anything else you would personally replace if you were doing this job yourself?
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Old Sep 12, 2017, 09:53 AM   #7
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Why are you pulling the head? Did it test bad on a leak down test? Tight valve lash is a simple valve adjustment. Even if you do a valve job, you're still going to need to set lash..
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Old Sep 12, 2017, 12:08 PM   #8
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I have no reason to pull the head, I have not did a leakdown test yet. I understand the valve lash will need to be set. The car will be getting cams and springs/retainers like how I mentioned no matter what. BUT the car will be off the road for approximately 6 months. So.. more or less, I figured why not take it off? replace the headgasket, ARP head studs?? I don't know, maybe i'm wrong.

This car has had the **** beat out of it for 66k miles, 30k being on E85 and 480~ whp. So I figured it wouldn't hurt just to do something over the winter (before good weather hits) then have something stupid go wrong in good weather months.

But if there is nothing to be concerned about, i'll just throw the cams/springs in and rock on I guess. I just can't see how the 4B11/4G63 can take all that power and not need much attention after 66k miles of abuse.
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Old Sep 12, 2017, 12:46 PM   #9
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You are wrong. You will be pulling the head for no reason.


Put the cams and springs in, adjust the valves, and send it.
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Old Sep 12, 2017, 12:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone View Post
You are wrong. You will be pulling the head for no reason.


Put the cams and springs in, adjust the valves, and send it.

Lol alright then, i'll send it.

Looking at your mod list (in which you are in the 500's) are you still the stock longblock with just cams and springs? What's your mileage sitting at? Good god..
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Old Sep 12, 2017, 12:57 PM   #11
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Car 55k miles on it. Original head gasket. I did do ARP head studs 1x1 before I knew that they weren't needed. All it takes is a good tuner and proper setup and they will live a long time at the 500whp/400wtq mark.
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