what to replace after blown motor
My evo x threw a rod today...
I'm looking at getting a built block but also thinking of putting another stock block in. There is definately a hole in the side of my motor. What all needs to be replaced typically?
Shortblock,
Oil cooler
oil pump
oil pan
timing chain since im in there
anything else?
car had 59k miles on it. pretty easy life. never romped or raced it. was just cruising and it shot.
Thanks!
I'm looking at getting a built block but also thinking of putting another stock block in. There is definately a hole in the side of my motor. What all needs to be replaced typically?
Shortblock,
Oil cooler
oil pump
oil pan
timing chain since im in there
anything else?
car had 59k miles on it. pretty easy life. never romped or raced it. was just cruising and it shot.
Thanks!
Sorry this happen to you man. It really sucks the first time. Very strange that this would happen out of the blue. Are you the second owner? I would take the turbo off and make sure it didn't get any debris and clean the cylinder head out as well. Safest thing would be to completely disassemble the parts you plan to reuse and clean them out. Make sure you post in the "Official Blown Engine Thread" !
Sorry this happen to you man. It really sucks the first time. Very strange that this would happen out of the blue. Are you the second owner? I would take the turbo off and make sure it didn't get any debris and clean the cylinder head out as well. Safest thing would be to completely disassemble the parts you plan to reuse and clean them out. Make sure you post in the "Official Blown Engine Thread" !
Replace anything oil touches, unless you can absolutely, positively, 100%, disassemble/clean it.
Built vs OEM: more power vs longer rebuild interval. Gotta decide which you prefer.
Built vs OEM: more power vs longer rebuild interval. Gotta decide which you prefer.
Def need an oil cooler and oil pan. Oil pump can be inspected. Its apart to replace the timing chain. The head you have a 50/50 chance that it go shot gunned and ruined by the piston. If that didn't happen, take it to your machine shop for hot tank/valve job/mill and it'll be good to go. Take them the cams and buckets so they can properly set lash. The turbo can be flushed with clean oil.
If you decide to go with a built short block, choose the right engine builder. English Racing is hands down the go to.
If you want to go OEM/stock. The EASY button here is getting a complete motor from the dealer that's on ebay selling them for like $5500. They come complete with a literally everything. https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-MITSUBISHI-EVOLUTION-EVO-X-10-MOTOR-4B11T-NEW-CRATE-ENGINE/253415161938?epid=1139891642&hash=item3b00b88052:g :91sAAOSwCQNWdAjY:rk:1
f:0
If you decide to go with a built short block, choose the right engine builder. English Racing is hands down the go to.
If you want to go OEM/stock. The EASY button here is getting a complete motor from the dealer that's on ebay selling them for like $5500. They come complete with a literally everything. https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-MITSUBISHI-EVOLUTION-EVO-X-10-MOTOR-4B11T-NEW-CRATE-ENGINE/253415161938?epid=1139891642&hash=item3b00b88052:g :91sAAOSwCQNWdAjY:rk:1
f:0
Def need an oil cooler and oil pan. Oil pump can be inspected. Its apart to replace the timing chain. The head you have a 50/50 chance that it go shot gunned and ruined by the piston. If that didn't happen, take it to your machine shop for hot tank/valve job/mill and it'll be good to go. Take them the cams and buckets so they can properly set lash. The turbo can be flushed with clean oil.
If you decide to go with a built short block, choose the right engine builder. English Racing is hands down the go to.
If you want to go OEM/stock. The EASY button here is getting a complete motor from the dealer that's on ebay selling them for like $5500. They come complete with a literally everything. https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-MITSUBISHI-EVOLUTION-EVO-X-10-MOTOR-4B11T-NEW-CRATE-ENGINE/253415161938?epid=1139891642&hash=item3b00b88052:g :91sAAOSwCQNWdAjY:rk:1
f:0
If you decide to go with a built short block, choose the right engine builder. English Racing is hands down the go to.
If you want to go OEM/stock. The EASY button here is getting a complete motor from the dealer that's on ebay selling them for like $5500. They come complete with a literally everything. https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-MITSUBISHI-EVOLUTION-EVO-X-10-MOTOR-4B11T-NEW-CRATE-ENGINE/253415161938?epid=1139891642&hash=item3b00b88052:g :91sAAOSwCQNWdAjY:rk:1
f:0Basically if I can get another 60k out of the next motor I would be happy. Im going to purchase a daily and have this become a project fun car since its the only way I can justify it.
Thanks!
60K miles seems to be the (optimistic) general consensus for lives of built engines. Seems to be due to clearances and materials though, not so much power levels.
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you wont have to worry about any metal shavings if you buy this—->> $5000 too!!! Everything nice and brand new!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-MITSUBI...sAAOSwCQNWdAjY
all you have to do is just build it before the install, or you don’t have to.
If you buy only a turbo, water pump, alternator, pulleys and some other stuff at the dealer it’s easy gonna be over $5000.
I think a new complete longblock in your case is worth it.
You see short blocks going for $3500
GL!!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-MITSUBI...sAAOSwCQNWdAjY
all you have to do is just build it before the install, or you don’t have to.
If you buy only a turbo, water pump, alternator, pulleys and some other stuff at the dealer it’s easy gonna be over $5000.
I think a new complete longblock in your case is worth it.
You see short blocks going for $3500
GL!!!
I dont want stock because the bottom end seems weak and I have higher hp/tq goals and am looking for something strong and reliable.
Thats very upsetting to hear. But seeing as stock motors only last about 10-70k too. I have faith in AR-Fabrication to make me a quality motor. Im hoping I only put a couple thousand miles a year on the car. Just have it as a weekend toy. I might be picking up a civic here in the next couple days to keep me on the road.
I dont want stock because the bottom end seems weak and I have higher hp/tq goals and am looking for something strong and reliable.
I dont want stock because the bottom end seems weak and I have higher hp/tq goals and am looking for something strong and reliable.
**edit: my stupid cell phone doesn't tell me which subforums I'm in. I have a IX, so I'm not sure how well OEM X motors do with higher power and torque numbers.
With your goals, I see your reasoning and it makes sense. Picking up a reasonable daily driver would help. IMO, it lets you do things to the car that you normally wouldn't while performing DD duties. If a built motor lasts 50k miles and you only drove it less than 5k per year like I do, that's over 10 years of life before needing a rebuild. Not bad.
Built motors tend to not last as long because they're built, and they get driven and see the extra like they're a built motor. 40k-60k is good life on a hard driven engine. Drive it like it's camry, and it'll last like one. But who buys a turbo car to do that? And certainly who builds something with 600hp to do that?
Built motors tend to not last as long because they're built, and they get driven and see the extra like they're a built motor. 40k-60k is good life on a hard driven engine. Drive it like it's camry, and it'll last like one. But who buys a turbo car to do that? And certainly who builds something with 600hp to do that?
I like having power available. Not just driving like a jerk. But sometimes lol








