My new build/ story behind it.
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From: philly
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Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 198
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From: philly
Call Jim up and have a chat about price and time frame...mine was ready in 10 days. http://www.jmfabrications.com/site/i...tpage&Itemid=1
Thank you sir. Finally there is something to see back there
Thank you sir. Finally there is something to see back there
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: SL, UT
Nice! Looks like quite a few of us will be running this same setup once all is said and done. I'm sticking with a stock exhaust manifold, ported, because I absolutely love the current sound of my setup. 
But that manifold you have looks stellar!
2 things I want to note, and I hope somebody reads this and it helps them.
Rod bolts: do not replace the stock ones with ARP "drop-ins" simply torquing them to 30 lb-ft inside the engine, upside-down and expect the rods to be hunky dory. You really need the rods out of the engine, and you need a rod bolt stretch gauge so you can check that the recommended torque gets the bolts to the desired stretch range (this is measured in thousandths of inches). It's also very recommended to use a bore gauge to inspect the rod big end for roundness and desired diameter (subsequently calculating bearing clearances knowing the crankshaft pin diameter). Rods being out-of-round due to improper cap installation and/or torquing is the #1 killer of rod bearings, and consequently connecting rods, crankshafts, and entire engines.
Methanol injection: the 4B11T comes with a pretty balanced intake manifold stock, within 8% of flow among the runners IIRC based upon MAP's flow tests - as such, I wouldn't worry too much about unequal methanol distribution on this engine. Ideally you would want to get your intake manifold modified to flow more evenly before running too much methanol (and your cylinder heads flow-benched and ported as well), but worrying too much about some of the troubles places like AwdMotorsports have seen on earlier platforms is just being paranoid. I do agree improper reliance on methanol injection can EASILY kill an engine, even with all the failsafes in the world, but a slight reliance on it to render your tune 100% safe is OK in my book.
I'll be tuning my car without methanol first, seeing if that nets me some desirable power, and adding a relatively small shot of meth (300-400 cc/min or so) to see how much timing and boost that allows me to add. As soon as they re-open an E85 station close enough to me, that's going to be my new poison.
Good luck on your build! Sucks that several of us have lost the stock bottom end due to various factors, but built is the way to go on this engine IMO. That is, until Mitsubishi has 2 decades to figure out how to make it stronger out of the box like they did with the 4G63.
But that manifold you have looks stellar!2 things I want to note, and I hope somebody reads this and it helps them.
Rod bolts: do not replace the stock ones with ARP "drop-ins" simply torquing them to 30 lb-ft inside the engine, upside-down and expect the rods to be hunky dory. You really need the rods out of the engine, and you need a rod bolt stretch gauge so you can check that the recommended torque gets the bolts to the desired stretch range (this is measured in thousandths of inches). It's also very recommended to use a bore gauge to inspect the rod big end for roundness and desired diameter (subsequently calculating bearing clearances knowing the crankshaft pin diameter). Rods being out-of-round due to improper cap installation and/or torquing is the #1 killer of rod bearings, and consequently connecting rods, crankshafts, and entire engines.
Methanol injection: the 4B11T comes with a pretty balanced intake manifold stock, within 8% of flow among the runners IIRC based upon MAP's flow tests - as such, I wouldn't worry too much about unequal methanol distribution on this engine. Ideally you would want to get your intake manifold modified to flow more evenly before running too much methanol (and your cylinder heads flow-benched and ported as well), but worrying too much about some of the troubles places like AwdMotorsports have seen on earlier platforms is just being paranoid. I do agree improper reliance on methanol injection can EASILY kill an engine, even with all the failsafes in the world, but a slight reliance on it to render your tune 100% safe is OK in my book.
I'll be tuning my car without methanol first, seeing if that nets me some desirable power, and adding a relatively small shot of meth (300-400 cc/min or so) to see how much timing and boost that allows me to add. As soon as they re-open an E85 station close enough to me, that's going to be my new poison.
Good luck on your build! Sucks that several of us have lost the stock bottom end due to various factors, but built is the way to go on this engine IMO. That is, until Mitsubishi has 2 decades to figure out how to make it stronger out of the box like they did with the 4G63.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: philly
Nice! Looks like quite a few of us will be running this same setup once all is said and done. I'm sticking with a stock exhaust manifold, ported, because I absolutely love the current sound of my setup. But that manifold you have looks stellar!
2 things I want to note, and I hope somebody reads this and it helps them.
Rod bolts: do not replace the stock ones with ARP "drop-ins" simply torquing them to 30 lb-ft inside the engine, upside-down and expect the rods to be hunky dory. You really need the rods out of the engine, and you need a rod bolt stretch gauge so you can check that the recommended torque gets the bolts to the desired stretch range (this is measured in thousandths of inches). It's also very recommended to use a bore gauge to inspect the rod big end for roundness and desired diameter (subsequently calculating bearing clearances knowing the crankshaft pin diameter). Rods being out-of-round due to improper cap installation and/or torquing is the #1 killer of rod bearings, and consequently connecting rods, crankshafts, and entire engines.
Methanol injection: the 4B11T comes with a pretty balanced intake manifold stock, within 8% of flow among the runners IIRC based upon MAP's flow tests - as such, I wouldn't worry too much about unequal methanol distribution on this engine. Ideally you would want to get your intake manifold modified to flow more evenly before running too much methanol (and your cylinder heads flow-benched and ported as well), but worrying too much about some of the troubles places like AwdMotorsports have seen on earlier platforms is just being paranoid. I do agree improper reliance on methanol injection can EASILY kill an engine, even with all the failsafes in the world, but a slight reliance on it to render your tune 100% safe is OK in my book.
I'll be tuning my car without methanol first, seeing if that nets me some desirable power, and adding a relatively small shot of meth (300-400 cc/min or so) to see how much timing and boost that allows me to add. As soon as they re-open an E85 station close enough to me, that's going to be my new poison.
Good luck on your build! Sucks that several of us have lost the stock bottom end due to various factors, but built is the way to go on this engine IMO. That is, until Mitsubishi has 2 decades to figure out how to make it stronger out of the box like they did with the 4G63.
But that manifold you have looks stellar!2 things I want to note, and I hope somebody reads this and it helps them.
Rod bolts: do not replace the stock ones with ARP "drop-ins" simply torquing them to 30 lb-ft inside the engine, upside-down and expect the rods to be hunky dory. You really need the rods out of the engine, and you need a rod bolt stretch gauge so you can check that the recommended torque gets the bolts to the desired stretch range (this is measured in thousandths of inches). It's also very recommended to use a bore gauge to inspect the rod big end for roundness and desired diameter (subsequently calculating bearing clearances knowing the crankshaft pin diameter). Rods being out-of-round due to improper cap installation and/or torquing is the #1 killer of rod bearings, and consequently connecting rods, crankshafts, and entire engines.
Methanol injection: the 4B11T comes with a pretty balanced intake manifold stock, within 8% of flow among the runners IIRC based upon MAP's flow tests - as such, I wouldn't worry too much about unequal methanol distribution on this engine. Ideally you would want to get your intake manifold modified to flow more evenly before running too much methanol (and your cylinder heads flow-benched and ported as well), but worrying too much about some of the troubles places like AwdMotorsports have seen on earlier platforms is just being paranoid. I do agree improper reliance on methanol injection can EASILY kill an engine, even with all the failsafes in the world, but a slight reliance on it to render your tune 100% safe is OK in my book.
I'll be tuning my car without methanol first, seeing if that nets me some desirable power, and adding a relatively small shot of meth (300-400 cc/min or so) to see how much timing and boost that allows me to add. As soon as they re-open an E85 station close enough to me, that's going to be my new poison.
Good luck on your build! Sucks that several of us have lost the stock bottom end due to various factors, but built is the way to go on this engine IMO. That is, until Mitsubishi has 2 decades to figure out how to make it stronger out of the box like they did with the 4G63.
i might do a straight 93 tune, 93+ methanol, c16 tune. well see if we have time for everything. so far im just working on swapping everything over from the stock short block and start puting it back together shortly. im not in a rush. i work on it at night or sunday when i have time. Im only human lol
i dont have money right now for a 4 inch intake and a omni 4 bar. ill order one after the pump tune and see whats up.
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From: philly
the shop owner said to me that next sunday 4 of us including the owner of the shop, his son and best mechanic are finishing the car...and finilizing on monday. hopefully petey can throw a base map on the car so i can drive it out on 1100cc fic injectors. i gotta get a primo performance 3.5 inch intake, omni 4bar and some other stupid little stuff before the tune. i just have to worry about brake in for now. i just want my baby back
getting there. 10s on street tires and trans here i come