remember you dont only brake the engine in you do it as well with a clutch - brakes - transmission etc.
Everybody do it as they want it, but i did a manual recommended way. I trust the guys who build and designed the EVo / experience over 10 years now with them /, over some guy who write something ont the net , and who knows who he is, and where he got his qualification to say things and generalize them. And how is apply to the Evo. Seems to me that site, is some kind of wonder garage owner what you can find millions of those on the net.
You know it is must be true, i saw it in the TV...


ps.
My evo has thousends of hard miles , really hard. No engine drivetrain issue what so ever. Not even notchy transmission...
/Stock engine with cams and stock drivetrain with Exedy clutch./ So i think they know why they say what you have to do in the book.

 

I'll put in my 2 cents. I'm on my 2nd evo. I've followed simple rules that most seem to agree with: 1)vary your rpms ALL the time when driving the first thousand miles. 2) don't go over 4k rpms for 1000 miles (and then don't redline immed after...mess with 5k, then 6k...etc...maybe over the next few hundred miles). 3) consider changing your oil after the break-in (maybe not so important...but if you don't mind burning 60-80 bucks, it's not a bad idea) 4) be as careful not to hit the brakes too hard for first 1000 miles or so...

I just barely sold my 03 evo...had 42k miles on it, and NEVER had engine, clutch or brake problems. The ONLY times my car was at the dealer was when I had a problem with my dash, and once when someone rear-ended me! = ( Other than that...the car was amazing.

My new car has 2k miles on it...I followed those rules - so far, so good! = )

 

Good advice. But wow, you sure didn't really get to the point you'd see long term issues with a poor early break-in! My 2008 already has 45000 miles on it. It seems like a sin to either leave it in the garage a lot that keeps miles low, or a sin to rack up the miles with a decent length DD. My wish if I won the lottery would be to buy two spare Evos. One that sits for 20 years and the other two to use for DD (lots o miles) and track purposes (few but hard miles with tons of mods)

 

Honestly when it comes from the factory and after they have ran it on the stand it should technically be good to go. One heat cycle should be good enough to seat the rings etc. ive raced 125cc shifter karts and i currently race 430 cubic inch super dirt later model which makes 835 horsepower. Break in is they warm it up on the dyno, check for leaks etc, and let it cool down and re torque the heads. After that they make pulls and tune for more power. It comes to us and we turn it over 8000 grand no problem lap after lap. With the shifter kart you would just go out one practice session short shift it and you were fine after that.
Yes this is a naturally aspirated v8 and not an evo, but the same rules apply. I did take it easy for 500 miles, maybe did two or three hard pulls, but remember the people that test drove it before me did the same thing. As long as you dont beat the crap out of the car the first 500 miles and have the thing running warm and pushing water you will be fine. pulling a couple times to redline isnt all of a sudden going to ruin the performance and longevity of the motor. And people waiting to go 1000 miles before they go WOT is just absurd! lol

You could break your motor in by the book and still have problems if you dont keep up with maintenance etc. Also you could still hurt your motor pushing it hard after a proper break in. Theres really no easy answer i feel for the evo to know if its really that important unless theres some numbers out there that prove a broken in evo makes more power lol.

 

every race engine is do it a same way. Build put in the car run it , make sure no leaks etc. Then tune it on dyno or road. Then race it. Same with the evo engines too in the rally.
The BIG difference is these angines will never run 40+ k miles...
Also they are MUCH more regularly checked and maintenenced. Also they are usually have stronger parts. Race engines are ideally run by , race hours and mainteneced by that.

you can not compare the race engines to the street driven dd cars. Apples and oranges. And that is true even with the maintanence on them etc.

Rob

 

Yea like i said my race engine is not comparable to the evo, but like you said this is a daily driven car, not something that is 16:1 compression. A daily driven production vehicle isn't built on the edge and there for doesn't need to have nearly as much maintenance as a race motor. That being said a standard break in procedure on race motor should be more then effective on a street car. How many heat cycles etc do you need on your street car to make sure everything is ok? im sure you don't need 500 miles worth. Not saying you dont know what your talking about, but this is just my side on the evo engine break in theories.

 

here is the probem, you got the theories so as others, those who build these engine /as a groupe of engeneer/ has an ideas and knowlidge about what they made and how they did it. They try to make as long as possible to to run the engine problem free. And they have a good back ground to have a good idea how would be a best to do it. As they even publish in the manual.
The race engine brake in, is for one purpose . Make as much as horsepower is possible. The Street car engine purpose is run as long as possible . Apples and oranges.
ALso as i said you not just brake in the engine in the first 500 miles. Its a whole drive train and a engine, etc.
If something is good for racing, is not defenietly good for a street. When was a last time you brought street tires shaved or heatcycled, even better both?
It is perfect for racing , but completely useless for a street, destroys the life time of the tires, but who cares in racing that? Race tires perfom stellar after those threatments, and we talking about a same thing. Tires.
And i can go on and on.
You can not generalize things like that.

Anyway everybody does it a way they want it. But there is a reason why some people has 7K miles and they cluch is gone or after 5k miles they have a shakeing stering wheel when they braking or notchy transmissions and so on so forth.

One thing for sure ,if some one ask, how to brake the car in, that is means he is not an expert. So from there no one should tell him run it like you stoll it, because you dont knwo what a hell he will do with that car believing he is doing a right thing... LOL.
So the safest and most benefical way to him , if he follows the Owner manual. Unless you want to be a big shot and be smarter then a manual/ product of a groupe of engeneer /, and possibly make him doing something wrong.
No offense and wasnt really directed to you, just in general speaking for those who dont know how to brake in the car, and before they got a wrong idea.


Rob


ps 16:1 would be a bad idea in the turbo charged car for dd anyway. Fact i do not think is a good idea what so ever LOL

 

Exactly. It's a point many folks seem to miss.

 

a race engine and an evo engine is comparing apple to oranges so will get away from that lol. Do i think its a good idea to follow the owners manual, yes i do, but going above 5,000 rpms isnt going to all of sudden throw off the break in process, which some are so worried about. Beating on a brand new car really is never a good idea considering other parts of the drivetrain need to be worn in correctly, but people should not worry about doing a couple wide open runs. If a couple of WOT times is going to mess in break in, 90% of us are all screwed from the start since the car sales men pretty much tell you to get on it during a test drive lol. Some may be lucky and were the first people to drive the car, but that usually doesn't happen.

P.S i wasn't talking about a turbo charged car or a daily driver at 16:1, it was just a reference to my race engine. that def would not be a good idea for a dd lol

 

I work for a major vehicle manufacture and observe engines being broken in and torn down daily. Most, if not all the engineers here say that the best break in is, for lack of better words, to beat the $hit out of it. Of coarce they arent going to tell you to go out and beat on the car, there tons of liability there suggesting that to a customer. One thing however NOT to do is run the engine at a single RPM for a long time. Just drive it normal, hard, soft, fast or slow.