Your correct, a lot of the failures are caused by maintenance issues that where not taken care of before tuning. My question is...there are several threads about the X having oil blowby (the turbo seals) after a boost leak test. I've seen where some have only put 8/9psi in the system but that might not catch all the leaks (aka the BPV). What are your thoughts?

 

Update: so there is a hole in the block, they said needs a new long block replacement. (Mitsubishi ended up checking it out, didn't make it to MA). Damn. Anyone know how much this would cost to put in? Or any recommendations?

 

Haven't kept up on whole thread so may have missed something, but wanted to toss this out. If I recall from my 5.0 mustang days there is some slang in the engine world -

Longblock: nearly a complete new motor (generally heads, water pump, intake manifold etc is included)

Shortblock or block: just the engine block, crank and pistons and you re-use the rest of your stock items. Some other items may be included depending on company etc.

Longblocks are obviously more expensive, but much easier for for a dealer to install as they are pretty much ready to go. Not sure how these definitions are used int he mitsu world..

 

Yep, same terminology

 

I'm curious why they say it needs a new longblock replacement. If there is a hole in the block, why not just reuse the head? The only thing I can see that could possibly have been affected (depending which side the hole is on) is the water pump.

Does your "friend" want to go for more power?

 

Lol, my friend is now debating on selling it because he figures it would be too much to fix, he basically wants it done as cheaply as possible to keep it without going broke! Idk why they told him a full long block, maybe get a second opinion on it?

 

sounds like your car should be "stolen" soon... sorry man.. good luck

 

typically dealerships prefer to swap out pre-assembled long blocks, less technical assembly and much lower probability of reusing a bad part.

also, could be the head is trashed and a new long block was needed.


cheapest route is to find someone selling a longblock used, if you trust it and throw it in.

another option, pay for built motor. (AMS, ERL, MAP, SpeedCircuit, etc...)

 

A stock short block is like $2500-2600 new from Mitsu. It could possibly need a new crank, rods and pistons, along with piston rings, bearings, new oil cooler, gaskets, seals,etc...

A used full longblock would be the fastest, cheapest route perhaps. It doesn't mean the used engine won't have the same fate eventually. Thats why most people take the opportunity to just build the short block to minimize future risks. Its always a bad situation.

-Jamie

 

nuts, how muh would a used long block typically go for...

 

interested too

 

I've seen them go from 4-7k before. I think 5500ish seems like a good deal.

All depends what the longblock comes with, some have manifolds, some don't, some have turbos some don't etc.

 

At this point, I would probably just have the shortblock built since your warranty is already likely toast (unless Mitsubishi putting in a used long block would restore the warranty? - doubt it). It would probably end up costing the same and he'd end up with a stronger motor that can hold more power in the event he decides to get a bigger turbo in the future.

 

If you are going to sell the car, find a used shortblock or longblock, install it and sell the car. If you are keeping it, do a simple build on the car. Or get a shop to put another stock block in there and tune it right.

 

I highly doubt this was the tune. Rob has been tuning the 4B11's since they came out. He would have a long list of vented blocks if he wasn't doing a good job. I have seen his tunes and there is nothing I saw that would make me think his tuning would be the culprit.

-Jamie