Drag spring rate?
Drag spring rate?
Im looking at buying some BC Racing Coilovers and I want to switch the spring rate to something for street/drag, that'll keep my back end from equating so hard and causing front wheelspin. Anyone have spring rate information for this?
If you are spinning both fronts, then your center is not staying locked, so it isn't locking hard enough. However, if I misunderstood the question and you're spinning just one front, then you need to either fix the suspension or swap the front helical for a clutch-pack. But even if it is the suspension that's to blame, raising the rear rates is probably not the answer; shocks make more of a difference.
Center diff, then. What mode do you have it in?
Of course, some folks might say that an X with a hard-locking center is an X about to eat its transfer case, so a better suspension is still a good idea. My main point was simply that preventing the rear from squatting isn't the key as it won't do much for front grip. Better front shocks is the answer.
Of course, some folks might say that an X with a hard-locking center is an X about to eat its transfer case, so a better suspension is still a good idea. My main point was simply that preventing the rear from squatting isn't the key as it won't do much for front grip. Better front shocks is the answer.
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You'd be better off contacting STM about the D2/custom swift spring combo I have for my X. It's setup specifically for drag racing.
If you are spinning both fronts, then your center is not staying locked, so it isn't locking hard enough. However, if I misunderstood the question and you're spinning just one front, then you need to either fix the suspension or swap the front helical for a clutch-pack. But even if it is the suspension that's to blame, raising the rear rates is probably not the answer; shocks make more of a difference.
As to the driveline and tire-spin, the first question to ask (even if I waited until a second or third post to do so) is whether one or both front tires are spinning. If it's only one, the front diff isn't doing its job, so you consider getting something that locks harder than a helical. If both are spinning, then you look at the center diff, instead, since it's the center that is allowing the front wheels to turn faster than the rears.
The first fix might be as simple as changing S-AWC mode. You also might get a better program for drag-racing, as in one that locks the center harder than the OE program's maximum. Another trick here is to get what some call the Tommi Mak pressure switch for the ACD/AYC pump, which gets the pump to store a higher pressure, such that the same solenoid duty cycle ends up producing more lock.
Another cheap first test would be to dump the KYBs and pick up the suspension off an MR. Billies pwn.
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