Im alright with my hands. Have I ever done a clutch before.......not really...lol. Used to work on VW but a lot different. Ive been looking into clutches already and so far I heard nothing but good stories about Spec clutches. Beings the car is my DD Im probably gonna go with a stage 2. Stage 3 is a bit rough for a dd. The clutch cost 600ish but if I did it myself, 600 isn't bad. Just don't know what Id be getting myself into. Anyone in the area wanna learn and drink a few in the process....lol... ;-)

 

Heh. Good luck man. Simple stuff, sure I do it myself...but I'd leave a clutch job to the professionals. There's a reason it isn't cheap.

I do think you're on the right track with a stage 2 for DD...and Spec does have a good rep. I'd just make sure to do your due diligence before getting into something like a clutch job. MAP has a guide, and there are several others around.

http://www.maperformance.com/product...eplacement.pdf

 

I actually have that manual already printed out incase I do it myself....lol.. If I do though, I will make sure I take pictures to show all of you. Just hoping it isn't to hard. Also, fingers crossed someone I know can help. Would rather have another company do it but, can only do that if I can refinance the work. Do costly to do a clutch job at the current moment. Would love to have CBRD do the work if they took monthly payments on it.

 

I just did it on my x, here are a few things I hope can help.

Don't drop the transfer case, it isn't necessary as some of the write ups mention. As soon as it's unbolted from the tranny secure it in place with wire or suspend it with a ratchet strap.

Be prepared to remove your o2 housing/downpipe, I found it was much easier to access some of the difficult hidden bolts on the tranny with it out.

I removed the lower radiator hose that is near the LICP to free up a few inches for removal/install.

Didn't remove either LIPC or UICP, just the collars in order to free up some wiggle room when motor is pivoting on the mount. The LICP wasn't in the way.

Order some new flywheel bolts and perhaps tranny/tcase bolts. It's hard to get the torque on some of the bolts, especially the flywheel bolts, so be prepared to replace if the heads are a little ****ed.

Use blue thread locker on all bolts except flywheel, which use red.

I'm sure there are a few other things. If I can think of them I will let you know.

 

Thanks for the help.... I appreciate any I can get right now. Just cant justify spending 1400-1700 on a clutch job when the clutch is only 550-600 to start.... crazy. Guess no better time to learn to work on your own vehicle then when you have too right...lol.. Best way to learn is always hands on.

 

Only thing that sucks is that I was told by my extended warranty company if I do the work myself.... any future issues with the tranny or clutch wouldn't be covered at all. Doesn't seem fair..

 

So why isn't it covered now?

 

The clutch and tranny are both covered as long as the issue is caused by an internal issue. The clutch isn't covered though if its just due to common wear on the disk. But, if I do the work myself, and issues down the road with either the tranny or clutch wether it be normal wear or an internal issue...... they wont touch it due to me doing the work myself. Know what I mean?

 

They should warranty this. This is abdnormal wear. If you know how to drive a manual you'd really have to try really hard to wear out something as expensive as a clutch in 600 miles.
Even my wife couldnt pull this off, but she does well with stalling.