Building a bullet proof 4B11T
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Building a bullet proof 4B11T
Hi everyone,
I need some of your help and guidance on good brand's and set up with forged internals/ turbo set ups . I want to make my engine strong and make it durable when upgrading turbos and pushing more psi on the engine. I want to make around 450-500 whp
I'm sure this thread will help other out as well.
I need some of your help and guidance on good brand's and set up with forged internals/ turbo set ups . I want to make my engine strong and make it durable when upgrading turbos and pushing more psi on the engine. I want to make around 450-500 whp
I'm sure this thread will help other out as well.
#2
Evolved Member
a) You can get the AMS 2.2L big bore 4B11T crate engine. It is supposedly very well built. (Link: https://www.amsperformance.com/cart/...e-engine.html/)
b) MAPerformance also build 4B11T engine. It is likely cheaper with MAP, and they are also a reputable player out there. (Link: https://www.maperformance.com/produc...tion-x-stage-2)
In order to make the engine strong and durable, it has to be built by a very capable shop. Therefore, above are the two shops that come to my mind.
b) MAPerformance also build 4B11T engine. It is likely cheaper with MAP, and they are also a reputable player out there. (Link: https://www.maperformance.com/produc...tion-x-stage-2)
In order to make the engine strong and durable, it has to be built by a very capable shop. Therefore, above are the two shops that come to my mind.
Last edited by Lightsaber; Jul 2, 2018 at 11:14 AM. Reason: Links added
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
a) You can get the AMS 2.2L big bore 4B11T crate engine. It is supposedly very well built.
b) MAPerformance also build 4B11T engine. It is likely cheaper with MAP, and they are also a reputable player out there.
In order to make the engine strong and durable, it has to be built by a very capable shop. Therefore, above are the two shops that come to my mind.
b) MAPerformance also build 4B11T engine. It is likely cheaper with MAP, and they are also a reputable player out there.
In order to make the engine strong and durable, it has to be built by a very capable shop. Therefore, above are the two shops that come to my mind.
Can I get some links to these two.
#4
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
MAP is your WORST option for any engine building service.
AMS doesn't even list a price for their engines anymore.
If you want the best 4b11 engine, go with English Racing. They're the only company who has done real world development on the engine, and being holder of the quickest and fastest records for the platform in 1/4 and 1/2 mile racing shows it.
That being said. You do not need a built motor to make 450-500whp. A turbo kit with a Precision 5858 or gen2 5558, and GSC S2's cams will do it no problem.
AMS doesn't even list a price for their engines anymore.
If you want the best 4b11 engine, go with English Racing. They're the only company who has done real world development on the engine, and being holder of the quickest and fastest records for the platform in 1/4 and 1/2 mile racing shows it.
That being said. You do not need a built motor to make 450-500whp. A turbo kit with a Precision 5858 or gen2 5558, and GSC S2's cams will do it no problem.
The following users liked this post:
donny_utah (Jul 2, 2018)
#5
Evolving Member
MAP is your WORST option for any engine building service.
AMS doesn't even list a price for their engines anymore.
If you want the best 4b11 engine, go with English Racing. They're the only company who has done real world development on the engine, and being holder of the quickest and fastest records for the platform in 1/4 and 1/2 mile racing shows it.
That being said. You do not need a built motor to make 450-500whp. A turbo kit with a Precision 5858 or gen2 5558, and GSC S2's cams will do it no problem.
AMS doesn't even list a price for their engines anymore.
If you want the best 4b11 engine, go with English Racing. They're the only company who has done real world development on the engine, and being holder of the quickest and fastest records for the platform in 1/4 and 1/2 mile racing shows it.
That being said. You do not need a built motor to make 450-500whp. A turbo kit with a Precision 5858 or gen2 5558, and GSC S2's cams will do it no problem.
Agreed!!!
AMS doesn't want to help you unless you have big money.....
English racing is the way to go or Kozmic in TX
Go look at the dyno threads below and you will see ETS using English Racing making 400+ with just fuel and turbo upgrades on stock block, head and cams on pump gas.... Added GSC S2 cams, Beehive Valve Springs and Titanium Retainers and makes 500
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...turbo-kit.html
Second build same people with built motor and some other goodies
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...flex-fuel.html
#6
Evolved Member
English Racing is likely cheaper for sure. None of these is close to the OP's location, and it will be up to him to call around, compare, and decide.
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#8
Evolved Member
I have never heard of anyone of my friends of running into "major head gasket issues" with a 2.2L big bore block. With the right gasket and assembly it should not be an issue. Do you mean poorly assembly big bore engines will likely have "major head gasket issues", or that no matter how it's built, even the best built big bore engines will have "major head gasket issues" inevitably?
#9
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Lightsaber
English Racing is likely cheaper for sure. None of these is close to the OP's location, and it will be up to him to call around, compare, and decide.
#10
Evolved Member
Dude, I don't care. If you are pushing English Racing that hard, might as well give the OP some specifics on what specs you think you would order. English Racing provides a myriad of options just like everyone else.
#11
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Lightsaber
Dude, I don't care. If you are pushing English Racing that hard, might as well give the OP some specifics on what specs you think you would order. English Racing provides a myriad of options just like everyone else.
ER has a few different 2.0L options, and that's it. Because the big bore motors just use up bore size for rebuilds, and the stroker cranks for the 4b11 have a terrible rod ratio and they pull the piston skirt out of the bottom of the sleeve. Which is less than ideal.
You're in here pushing shops that you've never even used. And you suggested MAP, who has history of building engines and other products that have nothing but problems.
#12
Evolved Member
Originally Posted by Darksun280
Hmmm so a built and shipped to your door block. I'd have to say MAP just cause I know a bunch of people who have their built blocks in the car and have no issues. [...]
#13
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (12)
That's not what I have heard:
Do you happen to have some links documenting these MAP-built engines' problems, so we can be informed and go with better choices?
Do you happen to have some links documenting these MAP-built engines' problems, so we can be informed and go with better choices?
#14
Evolved Member
I found the post you mentioned:
Gentlemen,
It is with a mournful heart that I must share my engine is still burning oil. After all the work and preparations to prevent a mishap like this, it still happened. Cylinders 3 and 4 are still wet and I'm leaning towards it being an issue with the oil rings. Even then so, I don't understand how the compression rings wouldn't just scrape the oil off the walls since they are after the oil rings. What are the odds that it is a head gasket failure if my coolant is clean? No blue smoke at startup, but there is blue smoke in boost, especially during the first 2 pulls of the day.
I can't blame the engine builder yet without actually knowing what's going on.
So in summary, I'm tired guys. I don't know what to do next other than change the head gasket using new head studs and hope for the best. What would you guys do next?
-pal215
It is with a mournful heart that I must share my engine is still burning oil. After all the work and preparations to prevent a mishap like this, it still happened. Cylinders 3 and 4 are still wet and I'm leaning towards it being an issue with the oil rings. Even then so, I don't understand how the compression rings wouldn't just scrape the oil off the walls since they are after the oil rings. What are the odds that it is a head gasket failure if my coolant is clean? No blue smoke at startup, but there is blue smoke in boost, especially during the first 2 pulls of the day.
I can't blame the engine builder yet without actually knowing what's going on.
So in summary, I'm tired guys. I don't know what to do next other than change the head gasket using new head studs and hope for the best. What would you guys do next?
-pal215