Throttle Sticking!!! xxxDANGERxxx
Throttle Sticking!!! xxxDANGERxxx
What’s up Evo world!!! The monster is giving me some hell at the moment....I’ve almost launched into a person in front of me and have had multiple people almost rear end me taking off at stop lights because of the following and it’s getting ridiculous to be honest.
I just took delivery of my first Evo! Super pumped about the dyno results 632hp 585lbt... but I’m having 2 major problems which I hope are connected..... I can’t figure out why my rpm’s stick at 2k when I take it out of gear about 75% of the time... the other 25% of the time the rpms drop down to the correct idol but ONLY IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE CAR COMES TO A STOP. I find this odd because the values in the tune are set to an idol rpm of 1k and that’s not dependent on any thing else other than the car being out of gear... this doesn’t make sense especially the wheel sensors that have no way of even talking to my throttle body. The other problem is from a stop... about 20% of the time the car boggings down/dies when I try to get into first. Doesn’t matter how much throttle I give or don’t give... the car does one of 2 things.. lt either stalls suddenly like it would when you normally stall a manual or it bogs the engine down and sputters to a stall.
Heres the part list....
BUILT 4B11T 2.0L MOTOR
CAMS (not sure who or how aggressive)
WISECO PISTONS
MANLEY PRO SERIES RODS
KING MITSUBISHI 4B11T ROD BEARING SET
ATP GTX35R EVOX TURBO
MAP DIRECT FIT TURBO MANIFOLD
ARP HEADSTUD KIT
RADIUM EVOX IN TANK HANGER
RADIUM FUEL FEED, FILTER, AND LINE KIT
2 WALBRO 450HP PUMP
EXEDY R2 HYPER MULTI DISC
AEM X-SERIES WIDEBAND
AEM X-SERIES BOOST GAGE
BUILT 5-SPEED TRANSMISSION
EVO 9 REAR END
I’d love to hear what you guys think fire away!!!
I just took delivery of my first Evo! Super pumped about the dyno results 632hp 585lbt... but I’m having 2 major problems which I hope are connected..... I can’t figure out why my rpm’s stick at 2k when I take it out of gear about 75% of the time... the other 25% of the time the rpms drop down to the correct idol but ONLY IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE CAR COMES TO A STOP. I find this odd because the values in the tune are set to an idol rpm of 1k and that’s not dependent on any thing else other than the car being out of gear... this doesn’t make sense especially the wheel sensors that have no way of even talking to my throttle body. The other problem is from a stop... about 20% of the time the car boggings down/dies when I try to get into first. Doesn’t matter how much throttle I give or don’t give... the car does one of 2 things.. lt either stalls suddenly like it would when you normally stall a manual or it bogs the engine down and sputters to a stall.
Heres the part list....
BUILT 4B11T 2.0L MOTOR
CAMS (not sure who or how aggressive)
WISECO PISTONS
MANLEY PRO SERIES RODS
KING MITSUBISHI 4B11T ROD BEARING SET
ATP GTX35R EVOX TURBO
MAP DIRECT FIT TURBO MANIFOLD
ARP HEADSTUD KIT
RADIUM EVOX IN TANK HANGER
RADIUM FUEL FEED, FILTER, AND LINE KIT
2 WALBRO 450HP PUMP
EXEDY R2 HYPER MULTI DISC
AEM X-SERIES WIDEBAND
AEM X-SERIES BOOST GAGE
BUILT 5-SPEED TRANSMISSION
EVO 9 REAR END
I’d love to hear what you guys think fire away!!!
Have you taken off the intake pipe and checked for build up on the throttle plate? It's entirely possible for an electronic throttle body to get gummed up and not throw a code.
I'd start there with a can of CRC Throttle Body and Air-Intake Cleaner and some shop towel type paper towel (less/no lint) and give the throttle body a good cleaning.
I'd start there with a can of CRC Throttle Body and Air-Intake Cleaner and some shop towel type paper towel (less/no lint) and give the throttle body a good cleaning.
This is likely a tune issue. The idle rom tables are requested/targeted rpm. But other things in the tune related to idle control effect how consistently the ECU lands on that target.
You can do a boost leak test, and make sure there's no excess gunk in the TB. But I'm betting the tune needs tweaked if a boost leak test is good, and you don't have any issues with the intake between the MAF and the turbo (if it's even running the MAF).
You can do a boost leak test, and make sure there's no excess gunk in the TB. But I'm betting the tune needs tweaked if a boost leak test is good, and you don't have any issues with the intake between the MAF and the turbo (if it's even running the MAF).
This is likely a tune issue. The idle rom tables are requested/targeted rpm. But other things in the tune related to idle control effect how consistently the ECU lands on that target.
You can do a boost leak test, and make sure there's no excess gunk in the TB. But I'm betting the tune needs tweaked if a boost leak test is good, and you don't have any issues with the intake between the MAF and the turbo (if it's even running the MAF).
You can do a boost leak test, and make sure there's no excess gunk in the TB. But I'm betting the tune needs tweaked if a boost leak test is good, and you don't have any issues with the intake between the MAF and the turbo (if it's even running the MAF).
The tune is money
I‘m leaning toward TB as well but I don’t see how an ecu can tell a throttle body to cut rpms down to the target rpm the second the wheels stop. They “supposedly” don’t have any connection with each other at all in the ecu
The throttle body was clean and now it’s really really clean lol.... unfortunately still doing it
It's "idle"
The ECU does know the speed and uses it to switch tables based on that. The fueling tables are also interconnected and can cause rev hang as well.
Do you have a catch can setup? If so, what is the configuration?
The ECU does know the speed and uses it to switch tables based on that. The fueling tables are also interconnected and can cause rev hang as well.
Do you have a catch can setup? If so, what is the configuration?
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