When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I figured I would share this rebuild with everyone and in hopes of getting some help. This is no way a DIY, or instructions. Just my progress of bringing back this evo from the dead that was at copart. Below are what I have done body and electrical wise. I am currently having a no crank no start issue. I hear the relay clicking and programmed a fresh key to the car as well. If anyone can provide some insight on that would be helpful. None the less details are below.
Body:
Body shop check metal and frame were good so no structural issues just cosmetic.
sanded the problem area down
gave it a coat of rust primer
then primer and paint matched p26 rally red
Will be doing another coat as I dont like how this one came out.
Electrical replacements:
chassis harness
engine harness
ecu
battery cable
old ecu surprisingly survived and was able to read the rom after slowly pulling back melted/broken connectors (see pictures)
everything comes on when key is in the run position, only cel codes are the fan one due to no fans connected (shipment comes in tomorrow)
Other parts needed
brake master cylinder (acquired)
bow hose (acquired)
radiator with hoses (acquired)
ac condenser (acquired)
radiator fan shroud with fans (acquired)
bumper cover, LH fender, Hood, Headlights (waiting on these until mechanical/electrical is done)
Current status, no crank no start.
Picking her up from the auction lot Removed hood assessing the damage toasted ECU sanded and rust primer clear sprayed primered ready for paint paint matched, not liking the coat will do another one soon. removed dash to replace the chassis harness that spider-ed into the car. interior back together, now have lights to the cluster and power everywhere Old ECU connected to the car to get a read of the original rom getting ROM not defined ROM ID is 59580006 for 2015 gsr Whole shot of front end with chassis harness, engine harness, battery cable and new ecu installed.
Last edited by kernelh; May 19, 2020 at 10:14 PM.
Reason: spelling
Ah I forgot to mention the ECU and ETACS, when I plugged in the new ecu I got an ETACS error on the cluster. Due to mismatch of VINS, I recoded the ECU to match the VIN of the ETACS and the car. From there that error message has gone away. I have researched and seen that is all that was needed to get a new ECU in the car, if you have any insight please let me know.
It does not start with the original ECU but also didn't have the original keys, I purchases one from the dealer and programmed it via mut III software (maybe an issue with the programming maybe need another key and try again)
The plastic surrounding of the ecu pins did not fair too well, but the motherboard and pins were intact enough to get a ROM off of it. (ROM ID 59580006) ECUFLASH gave me a ROM not defined, which I am assuming because ECUFLASH didn't have the definition. I am having issues finding the 59580006 definition, if anyone can help would be greatly appreciated. I want to write original ECU ROM to new ECU ROM to see if that help.
Starting update, when i plug test light into top left of starter relay socket and other end to ground. I get the light when key is turned to start position. Would this still happen if immobilizer was the culprit?
If I connect a wire directly from 12v source to the starter signal lead, it cranks over but does not start. So I am going back to think its and immobilizer issue, does anyone know if it can be disabled the immobilizer just to test to see if thats the issue. Im still leaning towards issue with the key but everything was per the instruction of programming the brand new key to the car. Also I do not have a fast key I have the one that goes into the ignition with the buttons at the end.
Last edited by kernelh; May 20, 2020 at 08:18 AM.
Reason: Grammer
I wish I had the answer to that, I tried locating the previous owner with no success. But with the burn patterns it shows it was concentrated on the LH headlight. I pulled apart the RH headlight and noticed LED Demon eyes bulb with a part number. I look up the part number and they appeared to be generic AIO LEDs and demon eyes. Maybe a short caused it to explode and catch fire, or maybe improper installation? I am not entirely sure to be honest. Just putting her back together.
Ah I forgot to mention the ECU and ETACS, when I plugged in the new ecu I got an ETACS error on the cluster. Due to mismatch of VINS, I recoded the ECU to match the VIN of the ETACS and the car. From there that error message has gone away. I have researched and seen that is all that was needed to get a new ECU in the car, if you have any insight please let me know.
It does not start with the original ECU but also didn't have the original keys, I purchases one from the dealer and programmed it via mut III software (maybe an issue with the programming maybe need another key and try again)
The plastic surrounding of the ecu pins did not fair too well, but the motherboard and pins were intact enough to get a ROM off of it. (ROM ID 59580006) ECUFLASH gave me a ROM not defined, which I am assuming because ECUFLASH didn't have the definition. I am having issues finding the 59580006 definition, if anyone can help would be greatly appreciated. I want to write original ECU ROM to new ECU ROM to see if that help.
Starting update, when i plug test light into top left of starter relay socket and other end to ground. I get the light when key is turned to start position. Would this still happen if immobilizer was the culprit?
If I connect a wire directly from 12v source to the starter signal lead, it cranks over but does not start. So I am going back to think its and immobilizer issue, does anyone know if it can be disabled the immobilizer just to test to see if thats the issue. Im still leaning towards issue with the key but everything was per the instruction of programming the brand new key to the car. Also I do not have a fast key I have the one that goes into the ignition with the buttons at the end.
Thanks for the link, I did check there first. However he didnt have the 59580006. But none the less I was able to get the original rom on the new ECU, the only way that was accomplished was doing a bench flash.
now on to my next dilemma, the no crank no start. I checked relays all are good I even swapped them around, I know the clutch switch works because when I depress and press the clutch while key in start position I can hear the starter relay click on an off. I also tested to see if I get signal to the starter relay via test light. The light comes on and beeps while the key is to the start position. Lastly the car does crank if I do use the 12v constant from the starter relay to the starter signal lead on the starer.
My questions are these:
1. If it was an immobilizer issue, would I get signal to the starter relay when the key is in the start position? I am assuming not but not entirely sure.
2. would and incorrect engine harness cause this issue? I only ask because I do see the evo x have a couple different engine harnesses. I know I have the correct chassis harness as the part number came with the harness and thats what the dealer gave to as fitting my car. But engine harness did not come with one.
3. Can someone explain how to jump the start relay, I am assuming is the 12v constant to the neighboring pin. But would rather be sure then just assume. If someone post a picture please.
Unrelated to starting questions
These plugs do not match up the right is the engine harness and the left if the chassis harness, I am assuming I was given the wrong engine harness. If anyone can confirm would be awesome (picture below)
Lastly can someone confirm if this grey plug below is connected to anything on their base gsr its right next the right front abs connector (passenger side for usdm) The old harness didnt have anything plugged in their either, maybe was there for additional option?
It would not crank at all if it were an immobilizer issue.
The wrong engine harness could certainly cause major issues like you're having.
Rooting for you to get your Evo up and running!
Thats what I figured from my experience thank you for confirming, did you get that picture from the service manual? If so do you know where I can obtain a working one? the ones I found have several pdf files and I have to fish through them to get some info.
On to some good news, I was able to get the car to start. Granted it died right away but the car now starts none the less (WOOHOOH) Long story short after tracing the starter signal wire, the grey and black plug needs to be conected as that is where the starter signal wire is located. So I do have the wrong engine harness, the company I got it from is going to correct the issue. As of right now I just depinned the grey connector and connected the pins to the black connector. This could be related to the start and dying right away. But I have not reconnected all the vacuum lines or the intercooler piping (Im sure these being disconnected is not helping the idle) next steps is to get the brown boost solenoid and start getting everything connected to see if I can get an idle. Another plus is no check engine light, ill update the thread as soon as I get the boost solenoid and have piping connected.
@splattj
Thanks for the link, I will give it a shot @ugakirk
Its not as bad as I expected it to be, the biggest hurdle has really been that mismatched connector. Which in turn delayed the car starting and a headache that wasn't needed. Hopefully I get the replacement soon.
Update
Car starts up and dies immediately, but I don't have the inter cooler piping and vacuum lines connected.
But thats where some bad news comes in, it has a loud knock. So I will now focus and tearing down the engine and find out what rod is busted and hope that the crank is fine. If not will be doing a complete rebuild.
If anyone near colorado has a decently priced 4b11T block please let me know.
Still waiting on the replacement engine harness in the mean time I de-pinned the chassis connector to get it to turnover.
