Putting the AMS is a breeze compared to taking the stock off. Have much more room and everything is more accessible.

 

Besides using a lot of liquid wrench or PB blaster and the proper tools, any tips on making the OEM part easier to remove? (i.e.- not snapping off a bolt and such)

 

nice write up.

 

great write up but im near kill myself..thursday i installed the ams cold air intake no prob and before that the strang shift bushings no problem so next was test and downpipe guess what gues after wd40 and being careful i broke a nut it sucks now im out a car until i get another nut and have the fun of getting the old nut off why in the world are these nuts breaking i paided 33gees for a car thats nuts breaks for no reason and to make it worst it was the last nut so now i have to take eveything off and have a blast

cant wait until this is over seriously dont even no were to start know

 

damn i feel you man, sucks a tiny nut can cause soo much problems. Next time make sure to have some spares before you begin a big project

 

Damn I am so tempted to do this tomorrow...... Should I, or should I not.. the Damn pipe is staring at me say "put me on pleaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasssseee"

 

this is a great write-up, i tried installing my UR 02/dp myself but i gave up. it was such a PITA
to reach the bolts. good thing a friend of mine knows a shop that specializes on mitsu
so i let them handle it and it took them 2 hrs to do it with a lift.
labor cost; $150 (not bad)

 

okay so i have a lift in my garage
cant i just take the heat shields off and go under the car and take the Dp bolts out and pull that sucker off?
or do i have to take the manifold and turbo and **** off too?
cuz thats a pain to take all that **** out
just wondering

 

Just installed my AMS wide mouth downpipe. Paid $80 for labor, took about 2 hours for the install.

Some hints if you're doing this yourself: remove the front passenger side wheel for easier access to some bolts on the O2 housing (using extenders of course), remove the downpipe first then move on to the O2, remove a couple brackets under the stock O2, remove the strut bar and heat shields, no need to remove the headers.

If you can't pull the stock o2 from below the car, it can be easier to grab it from the engine compartment.

Impressions:

Huge gains from such a simple bolt-on, didn't expect this much since I've already installed a test pipe.
2nd gears pulls as if in 1st, spool is much improved, I say 75% improvement over stock. 5th pulls much harder, the car used to die when I shift into 5th but not anymore.
Boost used to spike to 28 psi and back to 22 psi, now its held a bit longer at 28psi.

I give this mod 10/10, well done AMS

 

i am not looking forward to installing this..... any good tips before i dive in?

 

nicely done!

 

"seven 227" you make this sound really good. i was debating on getting this or not before i get tuned.

i was looking to getting intercooler, licp, uicp, intake, catback, test pipe, and tune...maybe i'll add this to the mix and then get tuned.

you said the boost holds up longer right? you didn't see any increase in boost thought right? no spikes or anything?

 

anyone one else feel good gains with this downpipe?

 

where did you go? i'm going to pass on this ordeal and just fork over the labor.

 

I'll be reporting back to this thread to show gains of the DP, FP Red, and 1000cc worth of fuel