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How to Install BLITZ Turbo Timer (With Pictures) <Partial Install>

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Old Sep 22, 2010, 10:25 AM
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How to Install BLITZ Turbo Timer (With Pictures) <Partial Install>

Hey Guys,

To get it up and running its a pretty easy process, so if you know a lot about cars, you probably won't need this, but I was doing it, so I figured I would snap a couple pictures, and help out people.. since that is what forums are all about.

Before I start, I will warn you, I did not get the boost tube hooked up, hence why this is labeled as a <Partial Install>

The turbo Timer I purchased was the Blitz FATT DC IV Turbo Timer. And I'm going to tell you right now, if you did not by the wiring harness for the additional $20 bucks, BUY IT! It makes this process 400x easier, and will take you probably half as long to install.

When I bought the timer, the entire manual was in Japanese, hence why I thought this would be a useful tutorial. I did email BLITZ, who eventually emailed me a link to a step by step pdf. but it is not EVO 10 specific, so I figured I would still share my experience. Plus, if you are like me, you don't want to screw up any of your panels, so having Evo 10 specific instructions can help from breaking pieces.

Link for general BLITZ turbo timer install:
http://www.blitzpowerusa.com/techsup...df/fattdc4.pdf

Link to purchase the Blitz Turbo Timer: (Picture 1)
http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...&cat=43&page=1

Link to purchase Wiring Harness: (Picture 2)
http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...&cat=43&page=1

TOOLS:
The only tools you will really need are a screw driver, adjustable wrench, and some wire strippers for the grounds. The rest is plug and play.

Step one: Unplug your battery.
This step can be skipped, but if you fry your computer, don't blame me.

Step two: Remove two screws from under steering wheel shaft, where steering wheel adjustment handle is. (Picture 3)

Once the 2 bottom screws are removed, the steering wheel column/shaft cover will separate into two pieces (top and bottom), just pull them apart. It may take a little force, but like everything on this car, it just snaps on and off. Put these pieces aside.

Step three: Remove lower dashboard, under steering wheel. This piece also has two screws (in the bottom left and right corners). Once those screws are out, there are a half a dozen clips, that just pop right out with a little pull. Remember to pull perpendicular to the clip/surface, to remove safely. (Note: unplug the switches for the headlight leveling and Traction control once you have the clips unhooked, in order to get the plastic panel out of the way.

Once you have these plastic panels moved, you have full access for the install.

Step four: Unhook existing ignition plug, to install wireing harness. (Picture 4)
This is the white clip attached to the left side of your steering wheel column. (Note: This clip is a *****!) Unclipping this took me more time than the entire rest of the process, its a simple latch, but the location of it makes it terrible inaccessible. Use your screwdriver to press in the lever on the plug, and pull until its removed. If you want to see how the clip is set up, just look at both larger sides of the wireing harness you bought, that is the same type of clip.

Step Five: Install Wiring Harness
Pretty self explanatory, male to female, female to male. If you don't know what that means, ask your mom. The remaining smaller white plug on the harness will go into the back of the main timer unit. Feed that down behind the dash (I put mine on the left side, so I could access it through the fuse door.)

Step Six: Install Main Unit behind dash. Once you find a place to nestle the unit, you can plug the remaining wire harness plug into the back of the unit.

Step Seven: Grounds.
You will now have 3 wires left running from the back of the unit. These are all ground. Not sure why there are three. One is the main ground, the purple one is for the e-break, and Im not sure what the third is for. Maybe the door locks. Anyone know? You want to hook the e-break ground (purple) up to the e-break, so that if you release your e-break, the timer shuts off, so no one can steel your car. This is especially important to hook up because with the Mitsubishi F.A.S.T. Key system, you are not able to lock your doors while the timer is running, which kind of sucks, but it is what it is.

Step Eight: E-break ground.
The center console panels all snap right off, like the dash. The e-break cable is then exposed. There is a small screw right where the e-break handle meets the rest of the car, this is probably the best place for the e-break ground.

Step Nine: Other two black wires, grounds.
Coming out of the main unit, are the last two black ground wires. I just removed a bolt right under the fuze door panel opening since it was easily accessible. I want to say it was a 11mm or 12mm, but if you use an adjustable, it doesn't even matter. (Note: because I am lazy, I actually hooked up all three grounds (two black, 1 purple) to the same bolt. This is not the correct way to do this, but like I said, I'm lazy)


NOTE: I DID NOT INSTALL THE BLACK BOOST HOSE (Because I couldn't find where to feed it from (Can anyone help me out on locating that little hose).

Step Ten: Plug the display into the back of the main unit. Now you can hook your battery back up, and verify the unit is working. Mount the display where you desire, I did it on the top cover of the steering column (Picture 5), because its one of the only flat surfaces on the car, and it hides the wires nicely. Replace dash panels, and then steering column panels.

and Enjoy!

As mentioned, I kind of hacked this together, by skipping the e-break ground, and the boost hose, but it only took me 30mins, so if you want to do it right, you can probably get it all done within an hour. Hopefully peoples feedback in the comment section will identify how to do each of those skipped tasks, as I would eventually like to set my up correctly as well. Without the boost hose connected, you can only run the timer for a pre determined length of time, or that time plus the amount of time you have been driving. (1 minute of driving adds 1 second on to the timer.) The boost set-up, where by, the harder you boost during driving, the longer the timer will keep you car on, will not work if you do not install the boost hose.

I hope this info. has been useful to you. Please be gentle with your comments, this is my first "how to" and I am new to forums as a whole.

Thanks guys.
Attached Thumbnails How to Install BLITZ Turbo Timer (With Pictures) &lt;Partial Install&gt;-100_2992.jpg   How to Install BLITZ Turbo Timer (With Pictures) &lt;Partial Install&gt;-100_2993.jpg   How to Install BLITZ Turbo Timer (With Pictures) &lt;Partial Install&gt;-100_2990.jpg   How to Install BLITZ Turbo Timer (With Pictures) &lt;Partial Install&gt;-100_2995.jpg   How to Install BLITZ Turbo Timer (With Pictures) &lt;Partial Install&gt;-100_2996.jpg  


Last edited by importerok; Sep 22, 2010 at 12:02 PM.
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