racerx43269

iTrader: (4)

oem downpipe.... 2 ...... me... zero.... its still on the car :-(

healthynine

iTrader: (3)

I had the most luck from up top. It took me a bit of swearing under the car before I took a different approach. I think that after the spring bolts, everything can be reached from the top.

If it is any consolation, reinstalling the new piece should be much easier.

racerx43269

iTrader: (4)

yeah... it is just that ONE bolt that is on the manifold to the downpipe side... grrr cut my finger to the bone litterally.... so i put it all back together and said screw it ill mess with it tomorrow after work

Hirudin

Here's a couple threads I've found that tell how to remove the downpipe. The first link is very helpful! (Well, it's helpful looking, I haven't actually done this job myself yet.)

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tructions.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tallation.html

http://www.maperformance.com/blog/20...install-guide/

mbnworld

i took the shield off covering the manifold and turbo and got right to both bolts that hold down pipe on with a swivel head wrench.

ProjectGSX

iTrader: (3)

Any tips for the stud/nut combo? I have removed all of the other o2 housing to turbo bolts. I'm assuming you go at it from above the car and from the passenger side. Are you guys getting this one off with a flex wrench or with sockets? I tried using a socket/joint/small extension but couldn't get it on the nut. Should I pull the waste gate? The arm is in the way a bit.


I figured it out. The flex wrench wouldn't go over the nut because the o2 heat shield wasn't allowing enough clearance. I went out and bought a 12mm wrench, hosed the heat shield bolt down with PB and popped it off. After that a 14mm flex wrench took the nut off no problem.

BoostedFury

iTrader: (6)

Project. U can use a flex nut from the turbo inlet side or use a 14mm ratcheting wrench from above. For both, remove the wastegate actuator bolts and spring to have room to get to it easier. This bolt takes 2-5 mins from the top since you can spin the ratcheting wrench towards the firewall to get the leverage to pull it towards the motor (to loosen it)

Hope this helps, I followed the instructions on here and it took about 6 hours total (3 hours per day)

RevLimiter

iTrader: (6)

we should have a record time awards for achiving this project.

user 629782012

I'm not a mechanic.. but i am a journeymen plumber/gas fitter... My Question is.. when you heat metal's especialy of diffrent types they will expand at diffrent rates... I can't seem to grasp the concept of using a torch on the bolts... how would it possibly make it easier to loosten them.. wouldn't it just tighten the bolt? and or soften the meatal? if you put a torch to copper you basicly cause it to be like buttter.. it'll just peel and break..
Maybe a mechanic can chime in on this... how would heating up the parts make it easier to remove? I could understand if the housing was hot but the bolts were cold.. then obviously the bolts in theory would be loose...as their smaller than the houseing would be.

thanks

redboosted05

iTrader: (3)

from what I believe the heat is to loosen up the rust/gunk built up on the threads, always seems to work for me and millions of others that use heat to remove bolts. -JOEYD

evostang

The different thermal expansion of the bolt and housing breaks all the crap built up between the male and female threads. The bolt returns to original size (or close enough) when cool.

You don't loosen the bolt while it's hot, you heat he bolt, and let it cool, and then loosen. If you loosen while the bolt is red, you just twist the head off.

It is also better to heat the housing in most cases, not the bolt itself, but sometimes you have to heat both.

For something like what is described in this thread, propane won't get hot enough to do the job, MAPP gas might have a high enough temp but may not have enough heat (BTUs) depending on what size MAPP torch you are using. Oxy Acetylene normally puts out enough heat and temp to do the job.

user 629782012

sweet thanks for the clarification.