Making my own gauge cluster pods
#31
After seeing your creation, I did a similar creation. In my case, I used 2" plastic electrical conduit. I used regular AEM gauges. The conduit needed to be reamed about 1/16" for the gauge to fit. I used 60 grit paper on a hole-saw to remove the material and cleaned it up with 160 grit. I cut my pieces at 1.5". I had to remove most of the posts to get it to fit.
I was careful in cutting to fit the conduit into pockets cut into the bezel. Go slow with material removal!. No filler was added, and the pieces were bonded with 5 minute epoxy. I waited until just before hardening to apply the epoxy to prevent run-through. It worked great, until it hardened too soon. So I had to make another batch to finish the bonding.There was no trimming or shaping required after the epoxy was applied. The gauges are angled for a typical seating position and are fully visible as seen in the picture. The same for the RPM and Speed.
Krylon flat black was used to paint the additions after masking off the remainder of the bezel.
The friction fit is strong enough to not require clamps, but weak enough to pop out the gauge when pushed from behind. There is just enough room to adjust the dash lighting, or you can remove the gauge to set it. I can also just push on the gauge as it just reaches the switch.
The steering wheel height adjust is not affected.
I was careful in cutting to fit the conduit into pockets cut into the bezel. Go slow with material removal!. No filler was added, and the pieces were bonded with 5 minute epoxy. I waited until just before hardening to apply the epoxy to prevent run-through. It worked great, until it hardened too soon. So I had to make another batch to finish the bonding.There was no trimming or shaping required after the epoxy was applied. The gauges are angled for a typical seating position and are fully visible as seen in the picture. The same for the RPM and Speed.
Krylon flat black was used to paint the additions after masking off the remainder of the bezel.
The friction fit is strong enough to not require clamps, but weak enough to pop out the gauge when pushed from behind. There is just enough room to adjust the dash lighting, or you can remove the gauge to set it. I can also just push on the gauge as it just reaches the switch.
The steering wheel height adjust is not affected.
#32
About 3 hrs. It took the longest to sand open the conduit, until I figured out to wrap the hole saw with 60 grit sandpaper. I used a drill press for stability. I was going to use the drill press for the bezel cut as well, but the plastic was too soft and grabbed the teeth of the hole saw, so a few small drill holes, a small and final shaping with a rotary burr. Painting took about 5 minutes. Part 1 including the epoxy in the evening, and painted in the morning. Installed a few hours later. The dash comes apart fairly easily.
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