I would recommend the TT and here is why. Got this from LancerShop:
The basic function of our Turbo Timer is to allow the vehicle to idle the engine, for a timed period, with the ignition key removed. This allows the engine oil and turbo center cartridge to cool down and prevent internal turbo damage.
As far as the BOV... Get it now if you want or get it later. Either when you'll been ending up getting one. Its your $$$ and you can spend it how you want. Thats why I only make recommendations... The biggest gains you'll see though are from the Turbo Back Exhaust.

 

Thanks, but I have my mind set on the greddy. Just wanna make sure I'm getting the
correct greddy for my set up.

Mike

 

Ultimately, it is my my money and I can spend it anyway I want. I do still want to
hear some critizism if I'm making a good choice or not. TT is a definate for me, I hate waiting in the car for the turbo to cool down or sometime forget to wait and
just shut the car off.

Thanks,

Mike

 

I still say that you are making 2 mistakes:

1) TTs were only needed on old, crappy turbos like the 14b and t25. The 16g6 that we currently have on our Evos is of a much better build quality and does not require a turbo timer. It's still not a bad idea, but it is definitely not necessary. It's really just a cool gadget that looks neat, yet can be excused as being a "safety feature." If you don't have a lot of money to go 'round, I would NOT spend what little you have on a turbo timer. If you have plenty to go around, then it's not the worst thing to spend it on.

Another thing is that idling in place after some hard driving does not really cool down the oil at all. Since I have the factory gauge package (standard in the MR), I am able to see exactly what my oil temps do under all types of scenarios. Whereas in the past on my DSMs I would let my TT run for 1-2m on its own after driving, I now am able to see that my oil temps do not go down after coming to a stop. In fact, there are times in hot weather where the temps go up slightly, and that's because there is no cooling effect from the rush of air caused by forward movement. Therefore, the way I cool down my oil/turbo is by making sure that I end my driving session with some off-boost, avg speed (45-50mph), high gear, low rev driving. This significantly lowers the oil temps to a level I'm comfortable with before shutting down. I make absolutely sure to do this after 3 straight autocross runs, because my temps get over 220F.

2) Why do you have your mind set on Greddy? You still don't even know which one works, so what about the Greddy units has sold you? I'm not saying anything is wrong with Greddy, but paying for a brand name isn't the best solution in this case. Their BOVs do work and work well, but you already said yourself that you don't plan to push over 300whp, so you definitely have no need for anything beyond a JDM MR DV. I think you misundestood what I said about the MR DV. It is not just good for stock boost applications. The STOCK BOV is good for stock applications like you are on now. The JDM MR DV can hold 25 psi, which is WAY more than you will EVER be pushing even after all those mods we both listed. At 300whp, that will only be 19-20psi on a full TBE, intake, and MBC with tuning (flash or piggyback). Even if you got up to 350whp, you would still be fine with a JDM MR DV. It's very reliable, has NO adverse effects, AND it costs way less than any of the others. It's not as noisy as the Greddy units, but when combined with an aftermarket intake, it is quite audible. I retain the factory intake, because I'm only concerned with spending my money on parts that give me lots of power...

 

Thank you...i think you just saved me $100 on the TT. I might just go with the MR bov and invest in the intake ahead of schedule. Mind sharing witch intake ur running with?

Mike

 

Hah, you don't want to get me started on intakes. I only use a K&N drop-in filter, which I think costs around $60. There is no reason to upgrade the intake beyond a drop-in filter, and frankly, you would be fine with the stock filter. The K&N will give a few hp but will not affect driveability whatsoever and will allow COOL AIR to enter the turbo at all times as opposed to HOT AIR from the engine bay that is sucked in with an aftermarket intake that replaces the stock airbox. If you are only going to shoot for 300whp, then I suggest retaining the stock intake with no more than a drop-in filter as a minor upgrade. The difference in HP between a drop-in filter and some expensive, shiny intake is minimal, while the price is drastically different.

The place you want to spend your money is on EXHAUST and BOOST CONTROL followed by a TUNE. These are the 3 most important mods before even the BOV. You absolutely don't need the MR DV until you've raised the boost above stock, so if you want to get the best bang for your buck, then start with an exhaust. In fact, go in this order if your money doesn't grow on trees:

1) Megan 3" exhaust ($545 for full turboback catless exhaust - contact Zeus) or do catback if you don't have the funds yet
2) Hallman Pro MBC ($85) _AND_ boost gauge (i use the stock gauge, but you will need to buy one - i prefer using a streeing column pod over a-pillar pods)
3) Tune ($199) - mail-in flash is simple, yet effective - this is a set-it-and-forget it tuning method...I am assuming you don't plan on doing your own tuning

With just these 3 mods, you will be right at 300whp on a Dynojet.

4) JDM MR DV ($120) - this is to better hold your increased boost that comes from the MBC
5) drop-in filter ($60-80) - this will yield a few more hp and maybe a little more spool noise, but it's not necessary

 

Warrtalon,

Again, I appreciate your advice. I have currently decided to keep the mods on halt. I'v
decided to learn this car in it's current form. This way later I will understand if which mods
work or will not work. There so much to learn on this baby. You have got me thinking and
prevented me from rushing into bad choices.

Mike