650 miles - rough engine noise & ticking...
Originally Posted by Alphex
I feel a lot better knowing that other people have it too. So.... now that I know it's a an injector..... how do I get rid of the noise? lol
Did you change out the crush ring on the drain plug when you changed the oil?
Also, I noticed you said you used 10w30 full synthetic? Might it make a difference to put in 5w30 as Mitsu suggests?
Also, I noticed you said you used 10w30 full synthetic? Might it make a difference to put in 5w30 as Mitsu suggests?
Hehe... welcome to the pretty-inexpensive-yet-hella-fast-econo-car club! :P
Those ticks are normal. Without having my ear to the engine it could be lifter or injector clicks.
And at 3.5K RPM is when the turbo hits full force so the sound is just the side-effect of being "hella-fast!". Just hold on and point it in the right direction. :P
Your K&N oil filter is fine. Use stockers if you can but don't sweat it too much.
10W30 is fine but if it gets below freezing a lot where you are then you could try 5W30. But that is not gonna help with the lifter tickings.
Enjoy the car and get ready to mod it. But also ready for more noise the faster you go.
Those ticks are normal. Without having my ear to the engine it could be lifter or injector clicks.
And at 3.5K RPM is when the turbo hits full force so the sound is just the side-effect of being "hella-fast!". Just hold on and point it in the right direction. :P
Your K&N oil filter is fine. Use stockers if you can but don't sweat it too much.
10W30 is fine but if it gets below freezing a lot where you are then you could try 5W30. But that is not gonna help with the lifter tickings.
Enjoy the car and get ready to mod it. But also ready for more noise the faster you go.
Chances are the noise is caused by a lash adjuster. It contains a piston that pumps up with oil pressure to remove any play from the valve train (they are similar in design to lifters hence many people call them lifters). Since these are machined to very fine tolerances any particle entrained in the oil that gets into them can cause the piston to stick.
It could he that you are hearing the injectors but I don't think the sound would be as loud as what you describe. A leaky exhaust gasket will also produce a similar sound. However, exhaust leaks on new cars are rare.
So, what to do? My car, when new, went through a period when it would tick. Then the sound went away. The particle that was caught in the lash adjustor on my car came out on its own. So, I'd suggest just ignoring it for awhile. Unless you can hear it inside the car with the windows up, it is not going to cause any damage or problem. However, the people that say, "My car also ticks so it is normal" are wrong. Lash adjustors are not supposed to tick. So, if it doesn't go away in say a thousand miles I'd bring it to the attention of the dealer's shop. There is a section in the shop manual covering the cleaning of lash adjustors.
As for your second question, 3500 rpm is apparently a resonant frequency for this engine. It is the rpm where the vibrations are strongest and the exhaust note the loudest. Above that, at least in my car, it smooths out again. So, dunno. Maybe you could go for a drive with one of the mechanics from the dealer's shop and see what he thinks.
BTW, this is what the maker says concerning 5W-30 oil......
"NOTE: SAE 5W-30 fully synthetic engine oil can be used to improve engine start ability in very cold areas where the lowest atmospheric temperature is below – 23 C (-10 F)."
My experience is that the engine starts fine at temps much below -10 F with 10W-30 in the crankcase and with 10W-30 you maintain adequate lubrication during the warm days. This engine was designed to run on 10W-30. So, if your engine is starting fine on 10W-30 stick with it.
It could he that you are hearing the injectors but I don't think the sound would be as loud as what you describe. A leaky exhaust gasket will also produce a similar sound. However, exhaust leaks on new cars are rare.
So, what to do? My car, when new, went through a period when it would tick. Then the sound went away. The particle that was caught in the lash adjustor on my car came out on its own. So, I'd suggest just ignoring it for awhile. Unless you can hear it inside the car with the windows up, it is not going to cause any damage or problem. However, the people that say, "My car also ticks so it is normal" are wrong. Lash adjustors are not supposed to tick. So, if it doesn't go away in say a thousand miles I'd bring it to the attention of the dealer's shop. There is a section in the shop manual covering the cleaning of lash adjustors.
As for your second question, 3500 rpm is apparently a resonant frequency for this engine. It is the rpm where the vibrations are strongest and the exhaust note the loudest. Above that, at least in my car, it smooths out again. So, dunno. Maybe you could go for a drive with one of the mechanics from the dealer's shop and see what he thinks.
BTW, this is what the maker says concerning 5W-30 oil......
"NOTE: SAE 5W-30 fully synthetic engine oil can be used to improve engine start ability in very cold areas where the lowest atmospheric temperature is below – 23 C (-10 F)."
My experience is that the engine starts fine at temps much below -10 F with 10W-30 in the crankcase and with 10W-30 you maintain adequate lubrication during the warm days. This engine was designed to run on 10W-30. So, if your engine is starting fine on 10W-30 stick with it.
Thanks for all the advice and information. As of last night, I hit 5k miles on my IX. I still hear the ticking sound, but it doesn't seem *quite* as loud as it used to. the hard engine noise at 3500 rpm's seems to have smoothed out as well. It's still there, but not as noticable. Your post, though, has me slightly concerned, as I said, the tick is still there, but doesn't seem as loud. I refuse to take it to the dealership where I bought it, as it's been one shady episode of drama after the next with them, but I believe there's another about half an hour away from me that I'm going to check out.
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