got mine 2 months after it was assembled with .03 miles for 32k 1/1/06. 200 is alot.

 

keep in mind what your trade in is worth, and compare that to what another dealer is willing to give you.. if they are giving you 2 grand more than someone else factor that into the price difference your making up.

 

My IX had 5 miles on the clock, never test driven. Dealer I bought if from, traded another dealer for it. You could have one shipped from here in Cal. with the shipping might still be cheaper then what your finding, and a lot less miles.

 

Simple rule when you trading in a car.
Negoiate price of a vehicle that you are purchasing first, do not mention about your trade in. Once you and seller (dealer) agree upon purchase price of new vehicle, tell them how much you want for your trade in. This way you can truly know what you are paying for new car and value of your trade in.
Or you can always sell your car to private party.

 

200 miles is WAY WAY WAY TOO MUCH. I bet my Evo that it was used and abused by salesman and/or teat drivers like it was a f'ing circus monkey.

Plus, the car is a 2006, it's now well into 2007, so it's already got over a year depreciation on it and they're still trying to sell it as if was brand new.

I understand that it is getting harder and harder to find Evo's, but if they want you to pay top dollar for a brand new Evo then you better begetting a BRAND NEW Evo.

 

Yea, I would go with cali, but i have my car to get rid of. If I trade it locally , i only have to pay tax on the balance of the car ~10k x.05 = 500 as opposed to 1500 if i buy new after selling private.

It sucks, it looks like the evo it falling out of my grasp. I think I may have to jsut settle for the cheaper wrx and use the 10k saved to mod it or something??

 

^they don't have any other Evo's there w/lower milage?

I got love for Subys and all but a WRX is no Evo...at least get the STI if you are going to go that route. But if the car is just going to be mainly a DD than you can't go wrong with either.

Good luck.

 

they have a silver with liek 5 but i personally am not a big fan. It did looke ok though. Maybe ill reconsider. But the 2 evos are both MR SE and they didnt want to take my offer of 33.5 not including 500 college rebate.

Yes a little background. I love cars and love to drive them at their potential when I can. This car would be my daily driver. A lot of the time I drive pretty conservativeley. I like to mod cars cuz I enjoy learning and its fun to go to shows with my friends. I found the wrx because it was cheaper than sti/evo by about 10k and it is still a stock turbo engine with potential.

I prefer the evo due to the response to mods/looks mostly. But I just bought a condo and it would be nice to free up some money. Which is why i am gettin rid of my m3. Monthly payment difference between wrx and evo is about 100-150$ a month from the quotes i am getting including my trade payoff.

 

^sounds like a wrx is the better choice for you then.

But do you need a car right now? B/C if i were you i would just wait for the new AWD Turbo Ralliart to come out which will be priced like the WRX.

 

Found this worksheet. And also found a dealer with some SE's. What do you guys think of the numbers?

http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r...urrent=evo.jpg


Is there any space to get the price lower? I see other paid lower than this worksheet is saying to offer but i dunno where to cut from their profits.

This is including the 500 of for recent college grad and also the 500 factory to dealer incentive.


What should I do when the dealer says oh the edmunds info is wrong. There is no factory to dealer incentive. Or that edmunds is showing me wrong info? How about this factory holdback is all that stuff true?

This site is where i got the spreadsheet from. It has lots of good info.
http://www.carbuyingtips.com/carintro.html