What clutch kit for 330whp daily driven EVO VIII?
Bone stock evos that are babied rarely keep stock clutches past 75,000 miles. ( ask a mitsu tech )
callin b/s
I would not recommend Comp Clutch. I had a turbo civic 240whp and 236ft/tq and I went through three comp clutches. Stage 2,3, and another 3. The clutches burned out fast and I didnt even drive the car hard, and the car was only tracked once. I am in the high 300 awhp and tq range and I just replaced my clutch with the exedy stock replacement clutch a while back and it is holding up fine. That is what I recommend. And all i changed out was the disc. Resurfaced the flywheel. I paid 70 for the disc, and 240 for installation and flywheel resurfacing. Holds like a champ now. Hope this helps you out some if you really need to save money. It saved me alot of money going this route, and Im glad I made the choice I did.
Everytime I go, I loose atleast a second trying to shift because of lockout in some gear. My best time is a mid-high 13 in a 1/4, and that's a joke for how much is on this car.
I've been running a competition clutch stage 3 kevlar for over a year now without issues. I only put about 6,000 miles on it. Petal feel is slightly stiffer than stock. Engagement is fairly smooth, a little rougher than stock but good enough.
I've launched it a few times, not that hard. It grabs ok. I did glaze it pretty good once when I over revved first gear before engaging. It was right back to normal again in a few miles and it didn't even smell like burnt clutch.
I've launched it a few times, not that hard. It grabs ok. I did glaze it pretty good once when I over revved first gear before engaging. It was right back to normal again in a few miles and it didn't even smell like burnt clutch.
Do not listen to this man. This is by far the worst clutch in history, yes, from personal experience. You can search under my user name to see my thread on it as I do not need to elaborate on that here.
For a daily driven Evo with low-mid 300 whp range, you recommend a chattering 4-puck clutch?
My input:
The Exedy Twin is easy on the gears/synchros, its rebuildable, and it works. Period. If you plan on keeping the Evo a while, it is by long and far the best investment.
Stock is also easy on the synchros, gears, etc., and the wallet. Also a smart choice.
ACT is not easy on the transmission, nor is any other ridiculous single disk stage 9000 clutch. Will it work? Sure, for a while, until it wears your synchros to nothing, falls apart in the bell housing (also search under my name for this thread), or you can have lockout issues, which admittedly, I didn't have with my ACT. You can call Shepard Transmission and ask him what clutches like ACT do to Evo transmissions. His response will be exactly the same mine: Stay away.
EXEDY STAGE 2 4 PUCK CERAMIC METALLIC CLUTCH is what you guys need. affordable and will hold over 500 to the ground. it chatters and you have to rev before take off a little bit. also this clutch doesnt over heat or cost you an arm n a leg.
i have a disk and alignment tool for sale i had it for a spare but i still dont need it after 2 race seasons and i'm upgrading so dont need it. 200 bucks lmk
i have a disk and alignment tool for sale i had it for a spare but i still dont need it after 2 race seasons and i'm upgrading so dont need it. 200 bucks lmk
For a daily driven Evo with low-mid 300 whp range, you recommend a chattering 4-puck clutch?
My input:
The Exedy Twin is easy on the gears/synchros, its rebuildable, and it works. Period. If you plan on keeping the Evo a while, it is by long and far the best investment.
Stock is also easy on the synchros, gears, etc., and the wallet. Also a smart choice.
ACT is not easy on the transmission, nor is any other ridiculous single disk stage 9000 clutch. Will it work? Sure, for a while, until it wears your synchros to nothing, falls apart in the bell housing (also search under my name for this thread), or you can have lockout issues, which admittedly, I didn't have with my ACT. You can call Shepard Transmission and ask him what clutches like ACT do to Evo transmissions. His response will be exactly the same mine: Stay away.
Last edited by Solo II Evo; Sep 11, 2010 at 10:38 PM.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...000-miles.html
Anyway, I have discussed this on the fourm already. Most people just abuse the clutch, that is why they don't last. Most of my stick cars, the clutch will last for 150k- 200K no prob, esp with highway miles.
Sorry to the OP for this added, due to the BS call out
Do not listen to this man. This is by far the worst clutch in history, yes, from personal experience. You can search under my user name to see my thread on it as I do not need to elaborate on that here.
For a daily driven Evo with low-mid 300 whp range, you recommend a chattering 4-puck clutch?
My input:
The Exedy Twin is easy on the gears/synchros, its rebuildable, and it works. Period. If you plan on keeping the Evo a while, it is by long and far the best investment.
Stock is also easy on the synchros, gears, etc., and the wallet. Also a smart choice.
ACT is not easy on the transmission, nor is any other ridiculous single disk stage 9000 clutch. Will it work? Sure, for a while, until it wears your synchros to nothing, falls apart in the bell housing (also search under my name for this thread), or you can have lockout issues, which admittedly, I didn't have with my ACT. You can call Shepard Transmission and ask him what clutches like ACT do to Evo transmissions. His response will be exactly the same mine: Stay away.
For a daily driven Evo with low-mid 300 whp range, you recommend a chattering 4-puck clutch?
My input:
The Exedy Twin is easy on the gears/synchros, its rebuildable, and it works. Period. If you plan on keeping the Evo a while, it is by long and far the best investment.
Stock is also easy on the synchros, gears, etc., and the wallet. Also a smart choice.
ACT is not easy on the transmission, nor is any other ridiculous single disk stage 9000 clutch. Will it work? Sure, for a while, until it wears your synchros to nothing, falls apart in the bell housing (also search under my name for this thread), or you can have lockout issues, which admittedly, I didn't have with my ACT. You can call Shepard Transmission and ask him what clutches like ACT do to Evo transmissions. His response will be exactly the same mine: Stay away.
twin is expensive. only reason i recommended 4 puck because its affordable and it ups your skill level and makes the driver understand the transmission better. and yea ACT is for dsm's not evo's!!!
You think all my mods were on since day one??
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...000-miles.html
Anyway, I have discussed this on the fourm already. Most people just abuse the clutch, that is why they don't last. Most of my stick cars, the clutch will last for 150k- 200K no prob, esp with highway miles.
Sorry to the OP for this added, due to the BS call out
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...000-miles.html
Anyway, I have discussed this on the fourm already. Most people just abuse the clutch, that is why they don't last. Most of my stick cars, the clutch will last for 150k- 200K no prob, esp with highway miles.
Sorry to the OP for this added, due to the BS call out
Its definately believable. Its all about how you drive it. when i break my car i know exactly what i'm doing. If i want or need something to last i drive it according to my budget. If i had the patience i'd start all over with a completely stock evo8 and see how long i could make everything last on the car. kinda start like a 1,000,000 mile evo club haha. maybe in 30 years when i dont have adrenal problems anymore haha.
The twin is unfortunately expensive up front, but rebuilds in the future are cheap. It also won't wear your synchros out like an ACT or a 4-puck clutch (both will destroy your synchros. You don't have to listen to me on this, just call ShepTrans). The engagement is too rough on a 4-puck or any aggressive single disc clutch - there is a reason why nobody in the motorsports section will recommend one. They suck.
A Twin will make the car drive like Sech. That will make you a better driver because you can rev mach like a dream and launch the car while letting the clutch take the shock, while not annihilating the transmission. If you want to drive your car daily and nicely, stock is fine. If you want to be serious with your Evo, track it, autox, drag, go right to a twin. Expensive up front, cheap in the long run.
this thread has more misleading information in it than the NY Times. First, It doesn't matter what your HP level is going to be. A clutch is decided based off of TQ. With THAT said, YOU can't gauge how many launches you can have on a stock clutch. I think in the 1st 12,000 miles of my car I launched the car atleast 5,000 times. I say that giving a low and generous number. I changed the clutch out before we shipped our cars to the track. For the simple fact I didn't want to run into any issues while I was there. When I pulled the tranny apart, there was PLENTY of life left on it. There are a lot of people telling the OP to go WAY OVERKILL. The OP said he isn't planning on modding the car anymore. Why go with a 4 puck clutch? Who said you are going to learn more by installing one? WTH?
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WOW major props to you that takes some skill. I dont know how to be gentle to an evo i'm on my 2nd engine 3rd tranny 4th tcase and rear end is going and im at 75,000 miles. The evo is a tank though i give it that because i've beaten it to death doing 75,000 launches on jet glue and even after a tcase starts whining it takes 50,000 more launches and a few crazy atocross events to completely destroy it haha.
[quote=Solo II Evo;8661533]Do not listen to this man. This is by far the worst clutch in history, yes, from personal experience. You can search under my user name to see my thread on it as I do not need to elaborate on that here.
I was thinking of going HD Stage 1 but after you said from personal experince that they are **** im learning heavily towards a stock replament clutch which I will be buying from the States as they are 4 times the amount here in Australia :S
I was thinking of going HD Stage 1 but after you said from personal experince that they are **** im learning heavily towards a stock replament clutch which I will be buying from the States as they are 4 times the amount here in Australia :S


