gears are really hard!
gears are really hard!
ive been noticing that reverse and first and a couple other gears sometimes are so hard to engage, i pretty much have to push and slam it in to get it into that gear and i no im pushing the clutch to the floor. Its only first and reverse, switching into other gears while driving are fine. whats going on? HELP
Is it happening while driving or when the car is parked? it happens on mine when it's parked 1st and reverse sometimes hard to engage. If it is hard i clutch in put it in second release clutch a little, clutch back in out of 2nd. 1st and reverse go right in. If it turns out you have tranny problems call the guys over at dogbox in Howell. I personally have not had any trans work from them. I have had other stuff like fluids and gauges put in, but def know evo transmissions.
When was the last tranny fluid change you did? What oil did you use? I had some tough shifting near the end of having my 6 speed in there, I did a fluid swap and installed some under hood bushings and they really helped with the gear lock out. Too bad I swapped it for the 5 speed a month or so later...
i can not get it into any other gears other then pushing it really hard into first when i first get into my car, once im driving its fine but idk what to do the trann was swapped out for a 5 speed about a year ago.
2) swap tranny, t-case, and rear diff fluid
if it's not fixed, then your clutch may be blown; i wouldn't blame the tranny just yet based on gear lockout
check the clutch - it may not be disengaging properly. i've got a similar prob with 5th & reverse. time to rebuild the clutch 
^^i agree with pkevo8 - check the clutch first and all the fluids before blaming it all on the trans

^^i agree with pkevo8 - check the clutch first and all the fluids before blaming it all on the trans
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I have that problem once in awhile where the teeth of the transmission don't line up when your sitting still. I advise trying to shift from 3rd to 4th then retrying, this motion always seems to line up the gears for me.
This sounds like a clutch bleed issue. Its typical after the hydraulic seal is broken in the clutch system and no bled properly (as would happen with a transmission swap) and is a hydraulic clutch issue common on all cars so equipped. A lot of the time you can bled a hydraulic system and it will seem to be bubble free but you might still have some air stuck in the cylinder which would require you to take the cylinder loose and orient it so that gravity can work the bubble out.
What happens is air gets in the hydraulic line or in the cylinder and compresses when the clutch pedal is actuated (whereas the hydraulic fluid doesn't compress and transfers the work from the pedal to actuating the clutch). The compressed air takes up some of the volume displaced by the cylinder when you press the pedal and doesn't allow the clutch to fully disengage the transmission from the flywheel.
If this is the case the transmission input shaft is still spinning when the car is in neutral as it is still partially connected to the running engine. The difficulty getting the car in gear is because your trying to mesh rotating gears attached to the input shaft with stationary gears attached to the output shaft (and thus the stationary wheels). Needless to say this doesn't work too well (try getting your running car in gear without the clutch). You can forcefully get it into gear because the clutch isn't 'fully' engaging the flywheel and you must overcome whatever partial friction is being exerted, possibly wearing out your syncros in the process (as well as wearing on your clutch when the car is in gear at a standstill).
Solution would be to either bleed your clutch hydraulic system yourself, or have someone else do it. It's a quick job (maybe ~15 minutes on most cars if you know what your doing). I'd definitely go this route before you give someone the opportunity to sell you a new transmission. Cost would be ~5 for a bottle of brake fluid if your doing it yourself or maybe $30-40 if you have a shop do it on their fluid exchange machine.
Another possibility if this problem is just popping up is that your clutch's hydraulic system is compromised. Maybe the quick connect is letting air into the system. maybe the bleed nipple isn't tightened down all the way, maybe your clutch master cylinder is going out. Check for leaks and note any bubbles after you bleed the system. Any of this will cause 'getting into gear' problems for the above mentioned reason and all of it can be fixed pretty cheaply.
What happens is air gets in the hydraulic line or in the cylinder and compresses when the clutch pedal is actuated (whereas the hydraulic fluid doesn't compress and transfers the work from the pedal to actuating the clutch). The compressed air takes up some of the volume displaced by the cylinder when you press the pedal and doesn't allow the clutch to fully disengage the transmission from the flywheel.
If this is the case the transmission input shaft is still spinning when the car is in neutral as it is still partially connected to the running engine. The difficulty getting the car in gear is because your trying to mesh rotating gears attached to the input shaft with stationary gears attached to the output shaft (and thus the stationary wheels). Needless to say this doesn't work too well (try getting your running car in gear without the clutch). You can forcefully get it into gear because the clutch isn't 'fully' engaging the flywheel and you must overcome whatever partial friction is being exerted, possibly wearing out your syncros in the process (as well as wearing on your clutch when the car is in gear at a standstill).
Solution would be to either bleed your clutch hydraulic system yourself, or have someone else do it. It's a quick job (maybe ~15 minutes on most cars if you know what your doing). I'd definitely go this route before you give someone the opportunity to sell you a new transmission. Cost would be ~5 for a bottle of brake fluid if your doing it yourself or maybe $30-40 if you have a shop do it on their fluid exchange machine.
Another possibility if this problem is just popping up is that your clutch's hydraulic system is compromised. Maybe the quick connect is letting air into the system. maybe the bleed nipple isn't tightened down all the way, maybe your clutch master cylinder is going out. Check for leaks and note any bubbles after you bleed the system. Any of this will cause 'getting into gear' problems for the above mentioned reason and all of it can be fixed pretty cheaply.
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