my car is spooling really slow after fp green install
my car is spooling really slow after fp green install
Its only spooling .7 bar after it spooled 1.5 bar with the evo 9 turbo maps being tuned I don't expect it to be quick after all its untuned but an fp green and evo turbo are not that far apart I ran an evo 8 turbo with the evo 9 maps and it did fine
+1 on preload on the WGA.
There's a few vids on FP's site demonstrating:
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...Category_Code=
There's a few vids on FP's site demonstrating:
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...Category_Code=
Do you control boost with a manual boost controller(MBC), an electronic boost controller(EBC), or are you using ECU controlled boost management via a modified boost control solenoid? Or, are you still running the stock factory boost control scheme?
What generation of Evo is your car anyway(e.g., Latin American spec VIII, etc.)? Which Green did you install? Is it the new FP HTA Green, or the older, original FP Green(Old-School Green)? Which wastegate actuator is on the turbo(either stock, FP 18#, or FP 25#)? What DV/BOV are you running(e.g., metal MR DV)?
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I am running an old school fp I used the evo 9 waste gate actuator. My car is an evo 4 with evo 8 ecu. I am using an eletric boost controler which had the same setting as the evo 9 turbo and 8
Panama Evo: Disconnect the EBC for the time being while you adjust the preload/spring pressure on your WGA. Run a piece of vacuum hose directly from the compressor housing's discharge tube nipple to the nipple on the WGA cannister. Be sure to plug off any hoses that you disconnected from your previous setup while you do this test.
Back off(loosen) the backup nut on the threaded end of the actuator rod. Remove the cotter pin that secures the turnbuckle end of the actuator rod onto the pivot arm of the wastegate flapper valve. Pop the actuator rod away from the flapper valve by prying it from behind with a long flathead screwdriver.
Rotate the turnbuckle on the threaded end of the actuator rod inward/counterclockwise three complete 360* rotations. Reinstall the actuator rod with the turnbuckle end onto the pivot arm of the flapper valve and reinsert the cotter pin.
Take it for a WOT test spin with the actuator thus tightened and the boost source connected directly from the comp hsg to the actuator. Watch the boost gauge. If it peaks at under 17# then repeat the adjustment proceedure one turn at a time and retest until you get the boost up to about 17-18#. This amoount of preload should be ideal for running about 22# of peak boost.
If you are gonna run a higher peakboost level, then raise the preload some more. WG spring pressure should be set to about 3# less than your peak boost level. This margin allows us to maximize spoolup while at the same time avoiding boost overshoot.
Back off(loosen) the backup nut on the threaded end of the actuator rod. Remove the cotter pin that secures the turnbuckle end of the actuator rod onto the pivot arm of the wastegate flapper valve. Pop the actuator rod away from the flapper valve by prying it from behind with a long flathead screwdriver.
Rotate the turnbuckle on the threaded end of the actuator rod inward/counterclockwise three complete 360* rotations. Reinstall the actuator rod with the turnbuckle end onto the pivot arm of the flapper valve and reinsert the cotter pin.
Take it for a WOT test spin with the actuator thus tightened and the boost source connected directly from the comp hsg to the actuator. Watch the boost gauge. If it peaks at under 17# then repeat the adjustment proceedure one turn at a time and retest until you get the boost up to about 17-18#. This amoount of preload should be ideal for running about 22# of peak boost.
If you are gonna run a higher peakboost level, then raise the preload some more. WG spring pressure should be set to about 3# less than your peak boost level. This margin allows us to maximize spoolup while at the same time avoiding boost overshoot.
Last edited by sparky; Oct 24, 2010 at 02:05 PM.
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