pmpnOZ's super newbie question thread (MERGE)
so there is no luck whatsoever in making it fast....my friend just bought a new ralliart, and honestly its quick, but its not as fast as i expected.....there has to be something outside a turbo to make it quick
I never noticed a difference with CAI other then sounded different. I didn't really notice a difference until I had spent about a grand on my car. CAI, Header, Test Pipe, Exhaust.
man the oz just isnt really that fast of a car without serious money. even then its not gonna get that fast, yea cai exhaust turbo\superchagers help. but if u want a fast import car this isnt really the car to get. im not dissing lancers cause i love mine to death. but i dont care too much about speed. maybe trade ur oz for a ralliart. u will lose some money maybe but it is a lot better engine and faster from the start. and when RRM puts out some things for it, it will be fast. my 2 cents
unfortunately, the concept of modding an 02/03 Lancer means (in my opinion) taking a slow car and making it... less slow. I got it for handling and economics. Otherwise, it probably would have been an RX7, 1st gen Eclipse, or the like.
man....u all are making me want to sell my lancer, lol
in my driveway i got a 95 grandam that has a spun bearing or two and a thrown rod, and a 91 mazda truck thats engine locked up or something.
now i dunno wut the truck runs, but the grandam can pull high 15's low 16's stock...lol. makes me wonder if i should sell my car, but than i still have to pay off my loan for it. but i was quoted $1k for an engine for my grandam etc...lol its nuts.
i really just wanna get to low-mid 15's...but if im gonna spend $8k to get there...i might as well put that $8k to a GSX or something.
in my driveway i got a 95 grandam that has a spun bearing or two and a thrown rod, and a 91 mazda truck thats engine locked up or something.
now i dunno wut the truck runs, but the grandam can pull high 15's low 16's stock...lol. makes me wonder if i should sell my car, but than i still have to pay off my loan for it. but i was quoted $1k for an engine for my grandam etc...lol its nuts.
i really just wanna get to low-mid 15's...but if im gonna spend $8k to get there...i might as well put that $8k to a GSX or something.
Last edited by Drive02Lancer; Dec 11, 2003 at 01:03 AM.
I got my greddy for 449 shipped from www.300zxstore.com, gb on magnaflow like jun posted, but
magnaflow i dont like their muffler
Originally posted by mboza79
I read a thread last night where some guy on here said his turbocharged automatic lancer was slower then the new ralliart 5 speed. Wow! That has got to be really embarassing. I have a hard time believing this.
I read a thread last night where some guy on here said his turbocharged automatic lancer was slower then the new ralliart 5 speed. Wow! That has got to be really embarassing. I have a hard time believing this.
To the mod who deleted my last post wtf?
I suggest going turbo it makes the biggest difference
Vince's feelings are not altogether the most truthfull as he was using the RRM Raliart... there were a few mods to it which made it perform quite well and it would stand toe to toe with a turbo'd auto non-ic'd lancer. Just a little special touch from RRM was all it needed. Trust me we will make the ralliart a super fast na car and possibly the fastest turbo'd!! Time will tell. Stock Ralliart is still slow though. I thought it would be better. Still better than its brotheren.
You can get N/A to makesome power. But bolt ons are little bits at a time and need to fit all together to really work. If guy can't afford turbo, what makes people respond with ENGINE SWAP? Or RPW $1000000 parts to make 160 h.p? Whoa! Call RRM dude they have some stuff that under a $1000 you will prolly be happy with!
I think you missed the point of engineer's post. It wasn't that RPW's parts were expensive, it's that the car is not as receptive to naturally aspirated buildups as it is to forced induction.
At any rate, the best bang for your buck is a properly built and tuned forced induction setup.
My personal feelings? Save money or be slow.
Regardless of comparative quickness though, I must say the Lancer is terribly fun to drive and that I certainly did notice some gains from bolt-ons, but compared to forced induction whatever HP I had was next to nothing. ...Now I just need to get my car back on its feet again.
At any rate, the best bang for your buck is a properly built and tuned forced induction setup.
My personal feelings? Save money or be slow.

Regardless of comparative quickness though, I must say the Lancer is terribly fun to drive and that I certainly did notice some gains from bolt-ons, but compared to forced induction whatever HP I had was next to nothing. ...Now I just need to get my car back on its feet again.
SweetBucket- such as? If the RPW Twin 60mm TB, stage 1.5 cam, higher compression pistons, FPR, eManage, exhaust and SRI aren't going to push the car over 160 NA, what can RRM do for us under $1000? I'm very interested to hear what your $1000 will do for us in terms of HP, even a total %age will do.
Ok, just from the RRM website, and the numbers that have been thrown around the boards, here's what I come up with:
+5mm TB = $289+ship, yields maybe 3% increase
Ported intake mani= 350+ship, yields maybe 3-5% increase
AEM CAI = 229+ship, yields 3-5% increase
test pipe = $69+ship, yields 1% increase on NA, maybe
So that's $937 +ship. 14% HP increase, maybe. 120 FWHP+14%=139FWHP - drivetrain loss 12% (I'm going to go ball park, some say as low as 10, I've heard as high as 18)
For a grand HP total of 122 WHP. That's +13 HP. (if the FWHP is 120 and we still use 12% as the drivetrain loss).
I don't want to hear anything about how the test pipe (or other mod) gives FI guys +6% and there are dyno #s to prove it.
We've established that our man isn't going FI right now.
I agree with Hobie (I take his turbo woes as a precautionary tale) and Urbanknight. The car IS fun to drive. Especially around corners. I love to get some civic behind me riding my ***- when I go through some twisties by my house they're nowhere to be seen. Then they fly by me at the stoplight with their hazards flashing. Whatever.
Ok, just from the RRM website, and the numbers that have been thrown around the boards, here's what I come up with:
+5mm TB = $289+ship, yields maybe 3% increase

Ported intake mani= 350+ship, yields maybe 3-5% increase
AEM CAI = 229+ship, yields 3-5% increase
test pipe = $69+ship, yields 1% increase on NA, maybe
So that's $937 +ship. 14% HP increase, maybe. 120 FWHP+14%=139FWHP - drivetrain loss 12% (I'm going to go ball park, some say as low as 10, I've heard as high as 18)
For a grand HP total of 122 WHP. That's +13 HP. (if the FWHP is 120 and we still use 12% as the drivetrain loss).
I don't want to hear anything about how the test pipe (or other mod) gives FI guys +6% and there are dyno #s to prove it.
We've established that our man isn't going FI right now.
I agree with Hobie (I take his turbo woes as a precautionary tale) and Urbanknight. The car IS fun to drive. Especially around corners. I love to get some civic behind me riding my ***- when I go through some twisties by my house they're nowhere to be seen. Then they fly by me at the stoplight with their hazards flashing. Whatever.
Last edited by engineerboy; Dec 11, 2003 at 10:21 AM.





