Im starting to research different possible setups for the engine management on my EVO. What kind of setups are least detectable by the dealerships. I want to make sure that if the car every needs warranty work I can make it stock as easily as possible. Im not going for huge power, but id like to get the most out of any mods I do. My personal goal is to get the car capable of running a 12.5 second 1/4 mile.

 

dynoflash costs about 4 days and 50 bucks in shipping to get it back to stock

 

I think Autronic is what you are looking for...

 

UTEC you cannot detect it in stock mode. And you can remove it completly if you want to. Plus you can tune your car for your mods yourself. You don't have to ship it anywhere so no downtime for your car.

Ben

 

I second the UTEC.. It also takes about 10 minutes to install or remove once you get the hang of it..

Additionally, any of the piggyback fuel controllers (Apexi S-AFC, HKS S-AFR) can easily be installed and removed if you use the Field Harness.

Also, the XEDE, but I think it takes a little longer to install and remove.

Standalones are also an option, but if you get a standalone, its likely you would have other modifications that would be even more obvious, or that those modifications would be harder to reverse and therefore could prevent you from uninstalling the standalone (Speed Density Conversion, etc..)

From a cost perspective, the UTEC offers the most features, is the easiest to install and uninstall, and is closest to a Standalone in function. Its also the only EM solution aside from a flash that can remove/Change the Rev limiter, and speed/fuel cut (when their new firmware is released) and still retains the stock ECU for improved drivability and of course, retains the OBD-II Diagnostic connector which in some states is required to even pass an Inspection.

Oh, and the UTEC when in passthrough mode, is completely undetectable electronically. A flash results in a different checksum and therefore could be detected if checked. The only time you'd really have to remove it is if you feel it might be necessary for diagnostic purposes.

 

The UTEC and AEM units are what I had been looking at before. I like the fact that I dont even have to remove the UTEC since they cant detect it. Would I still need a boost controller with the UTEC or does it control that also? If I do need one would you guys recommend electronic or manual?

 

The Apexi L-Jetro is very easy to install and uninstall. One of the reasons I got this unit and not the D-Jetro is that its very swappable since its still MAF based. Any flash would work unless they really looked into the firmware of it.

Takes like 5 minutes.

 

It aounds like the UTEC is your best bet if you're worried about warranty/service issues or emissions. The AEM is a killer box from everything I have read but it is definately not stealth or low effort.

However I wouldn't consider the UTEC "undetectable". It's certainly is hidden from plain view but if you take 30 seconds to pop the glovebox out it will stick out plain as day.

 

Yeah but it is not to hard to pop it out before you take it into the dealer. If you are worried about it.

Ben