Hi Guys,
just wonder "What is the Advantages of Standalone Ecu (Haltech/Microtech) vs Evo Oem Ecu?" beside its Anti-Lag, SD & LC Features?

Thanks

 

with a stand alone you will have more fail safes, plus a lot more features to play with that may or may not be needed. Plus with the haltech which is what I will run here soon you have flex fuel options. Sure you can do it with the stock ecu, but its fairly new. I rather use something that has been doing it for a while and gotten all the bugs worked out of it personally. Another thing is you have more definition in the fuel and timing maps then you will with a stock ecu.

 

Thank you

By using standalone ecu, do we still need to adjust the latency table for any aftermarket injectors, Maf Scaling and by the same tune map (Fuel & Timing) the standalone ecu will get the car more responsive?

 

Not a problem, there will be setup maps where you have wizards to select your injectors, mas or map, wideband etc and it will create a base map. From there you would just go in and adjust everything as needed into the map as you would in the stock ecu. But to answer your question yes you may have to. But like I said you will start out with a wizard to create basically a start up map rather than having to fiddle around with things right away.

 

 

There is currently no aftermarket ECU that could pass emission testings properly (without by-passing tricks).

 

 

anyone here running aem infinity ecu? if so how is it?

 

Interested in this as well. Reviews for other cars are positive from what I've read.

 

I'd say the evo software has _way_ more routines/corrections/filters to ensure a failsafe operation and much more advanced knock detection/prevention and limp-mode than any aftermarket ECU. Also idle control on OEM softwares is way ahead of any idle control i've seen on any AEM, haltech or gems ECU which often idle like a tractor even on mildly modified engines where a stock ECU can idle just as smooth as on a stock engine...

For a road car there's no real point in running an aftermarket ECU - for racing engines there might be some features not covered by the varios mods and/or tephramod that make it worth to switch to an aftermarket ECU (hard anti-lag). Also when tuning for the last bit of power no correction overhead might be desirable, but only if you can assure a given fuel quality (=race fuel). Again: for a road car the oem software is way more safe.

 

The stock ecu has plenty of good stuff in it, but I disagree. Playing with the new Haltech elite there is way way more stuff to make sure the vehicle has what it needs to be safe. Then on top of that it has things on top of things to insure what your fail safe is stays safe lol. I mean 5d tuning? Not really a fail safe but can be, Auto tune for stft and ltft, plus all the in depth layers you can add to it with the 5d just makes it bullet proof. Not to include there is so much more definition in what you can do compared to the stock ecu. But that's just not the Haltech that's any aftermarket ecu really. I am not trying to bash on the stock evo ecu at all I mean its bad *** for stock, but I rather have more in depth of what I can do with my car, run larger cams and have it idle like stock if I wanted and with the elite I can do that. Not to include Flex fuel is already integrated into the ecu and all you need is the sensor and of course the tune itself. I don't have to pay 600 dollars for the patch, 600 more dollars for dual tune, and then 100 or so bucks for the sensor. I mean when it comes down to it sure I spent 900 bucks for the ecu, 200 for the sport 1000 pnp harness but for what I get for my money its well worth the extra even for a street car.

 

Its not so much the ECU but the set up itself. I can guarantee that if you have a properly running after market ECU with a AFM in place you can pass emissions no problem.

A MAF based system is the most accurate way to control fueling since it measures the mass of the airflow coming into the engine instead of calculating it based on RPM, manifold pressure, air temps, VE tables etc. With a MAF system atmospheric variations are taken care of by the MAF. With that said even though you might be seeing your target AFR with your wideband it might still be running rich.
I would highly recommend to use a GM slot style MAF and position your IAT sensor before the throttle body or better yet right after it inside the plenum.