Ok here I go,

I just got done with stage one of mods, TXS utec, turbo back exaust, fuel pump rail and 650 cc injectors, IC hard piping----- all in all pretty basic, no engine mods yet.

After install car was running very rich and took it to Cartek in florida, a pro tuner with a dynojet to do a basic tune. We hooked up the lap top to the utec and put a mobil wideband O2 sensor and went for a ROAD tunning spin.

No matter what changes we did to the maps 00 to 10, or 00 to 20 etc. nothing seemed to be happening after we saved changes , the car just ran the same. After 1 hour we gave up and went back to the shop.

At the shop we hooked up the dynojets wideband O2 sensor, hooked up the laptop and started again. nothing!!!

Let me state that we pulled the utec and checked conections restarted and double checked all stupid stuff and started again from idle. the utec was on switch 1 and the laptop was synced. Our main goal was to fix the air fuel maps. Started again:

O2 sensor was about 17 all the way in the red. Started changing numbers on the base map 00 to 10 then 00 to 20 and you could here the car smooth out, the O2 sensor went to 14 (good so far) saved info, heard the stutter that the car is supposed to make and than smoothed out. then watched the O2 sensor it crept back up to 17. It was like the ECU was overriding any inputs we made. the map on the utec still showed the change, but the car wasn't running well and the O2 sensor showed no change

We tried changing several different parameters to no avail.

We called TXS tech line but they didn't offer any useful help ( just quoted the manual)

Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong???

 

I dont think the problem is with the utec, See if your fuel rails and everything fuel related is installed correctly or if their are any crimps in the lines, they could be to close to something and get crimped. Then check the injectors and see if they are all hooked up. Also check all your pipe connections, you would be surprised what a boost leak can do. Once you check all of these and also check your stock bov if thats what your using, once all thats done then check the utec over and then it could be bad if nothing else seems to check out. another thing you could do is set it to map 0 and see what happens then because maybe your equipment is off, can happen to WO2 sensors after time. oh yea sorry for the run on sentences.

 

What version flash is your UTEC running? Since you seem to be new to this site, some of the earlier UTEC's were shipped out with the TPS Transition setting set to 80, it should be set at around 25..

With that said, what are you using for a MAP switch? If your using an external switch, be sure its set to the MAP# your working on (base map is switch pos 1) If you have the external switch hooked up, be CERTAIN that the red rotary switch on the UTEC itself is set to 0 (Zero)

If you don't have the external switch, but only using the internal Rotary switch, make sure its set to 1..

Another thing to check is that your saving your settings after you make them.. When you come back to the maps, are the values gone? or are they still there? IF their gone, verify that your SAVING EVERY CHANGE before you CONTROL-X out of the map editing, otherwise you will lose all your changes. You can tell if it saves if your engine idle (when running) drops off a bit (or the car stalls) when you do the save.

The base map is in actuality their Stage1 map, and its on MAP1, the Settings on switch 0, are really just a passthrough and the UTEC will function as nothing more than a data logger at that level.

EDIT: I had a brain fart so some of this info is irrelevent.. but with the external map switch the on-board switch does need to be set to 0 if you have it.

Hope this helps..

 

Oh yeah, Let me add that the stock ECU will "learn" its trims in closed loop, it may need some time for it to adjust..

You could try to set the TPS transition to 0, but I don't know anyone who has tried that.

Do you have a general scaling factor that you have figured out to get you "in the zone" for instance -10% or -20%?

There is a setting in the setup parameters that lets you set some fuel compensation, but I don't recall which of the three menus its in.

Again, since your message (now that I read it a third time) clearly says the maps are saving and your hearing the idle drop when it saves, check your MAP selector switches..

go to the Dashboard (D from the UTEC menu) and verify that the switch value says the number 1, and the map your working on is the Map1, otherwise you can make changes all day long and it won't effect anything until you make the map active.

If you want, capture the entire tuning session to a text file (hyperterminal Capture file) including what your doing for adjustments.. I can play it back in real time and see what it is your doing.. run it from the dashboard for a short while before you go into your maps..

 

BTW, 650 injectors require about -10% to -14% fuel correction from the base.. you can then tune from that point..

 

Ya know.. the earlier post had a good point.. set the switch to 0 so its passthrough only and see if it starts running really rich.. verify that your getting enough fuel through the injectors themselves.. at idle and low load, the duty cycle on stock injectors is 2-3% so big injectors should run rich..

Also what O2 sensor were you using? And had it been calibrated before?

Regardless of your injectors, after the car's fuel trims even themselves out, the closed loop operation should be around 14.7, and swing back and forth.. Occasionally when I first start my car I see about 16 but it drops down to normal. Your car should be running really rich without the UTEC installed.. If its not.. verify that your injectors and whatnot are ok..

 

Lets see that was alot "thank you",

Brand new Utec version 1.3

No external switch, utec set to position 1 (checked about 10 times)

saving settings every time, values still present when I come back


Agree that 650s need about 10-15% for a start point and was shooting to get to that.

The O2 sensor was the one on the dynojet ??? not sure which one

It is calibrated, even pulled another car into the bay just to make sure, and it ran in the 14's


Whats driving us nuts is that we start to tune and everything just comes back. its running so rich that we dont want to tune to farand screww somthing up and it seems like were wasting time. ahhhhhhh

 

oh yea,

we used 2 different O2 sensors, the one one the dynojet and a mobile unit both with the same results....... we didn't need to even see the O2 senors to know that nothing was happening. the car was still running really lousy.

 

Its really hard to say why you are getting "no improvement" however from experience, the Evo runs in closed loop from 0% TPS to 30% TPS.. in closed loop, regardless of the injectors, it should hover at around 14.7.. a steady reading of 16 is pretty lean.. there must be a significant amount of air getting into the intake tract after the MAF sensor to offset a bigger injector..

Here's a thought (and something I generally do if I can't do one mod at a time) take the UTEC out completely, hook the stock ECU back in.. if there is something wrong with the UTEC, you should start seeing the car running rich overall, and I mean rich, like 9:1 or off the scale.. if your not, and it goes lean again.. go over all your new hardware, Diverter Valve, Intercooler Pipes, Vacuum lines, even the MAF sensor could be on cocked causing it to leak air. The more air leaking, the leaner it will run, a vacuum leak will cause it to run lean, and improperly idle, verify the silly things like the DV/BOV isn't installed backwards and/or venting/allowing air in through that...

Basically you need to rule out every other mod and upgrade before you can look at the UTEC as a problem. Also, I recommend copying the base map to somewhere and starting from scratch (Timing set to ECU, Fuel set to 0, boost control can be left at ECU, or you can set it to start at about 60, and go up to 100)

Also.. log some data with the UTEC before you take it off.. See what your MAF frequency is reading.. if its very low, or very high, it could be an indicator of a problem. Take advantage of the data logging that is there and doublecheck a few things such as TPS value and timing.. not so much to Fix the utec, but to verify that the rest of the car's sensors are working correctly.

 

One thought, do you think that the a/b switch on the utec itself has anything to do with it . i know one is for programing one for running. does this need to be switched to tune??

 

Just spoke to my mechanic and he says he check for leeks very carfully, and the tuners gave it the once over when we stared getting problems, just a thought..... if there were a vacume leek or an improperly installed somthing, wouldent we at least get some sort of change when tuning????

 

i dont have the utec in front of me but as long as you didnt touch the A/B switch from the box it should be fine. But it sounds to me like you have a air leak and the MAF sensor isnt reading the air in there.

But do check to see if it is the utec i.e. map switch 0. This should show if it is the utec. But my feeling is that its another mod thats either gone wrong or set up wrong. I would also call Nathan or Jermaine and see what they say about running the bigger injectors, as in what values to use.

Chappelle show is on now sorry cant type more

 

as long as the A/B switch is set to run and not program (the program mode is to upload a new flash) it never needs to be switched unless your reflashing it.

another possibility is damage to the MAF sensor itself.. look at the MAF values at different RPM's.. 24-30 is normal at idle.. and depending on your air filter, 1500-1700 should be at higher RPM's..

 

Yea MJ brought up a good point there, if the MAF was damaged some how then you could be getting those results. are you using a different air filter cause I see you have the IC hard pipes, is this a kit that moves any of the intake components. One of the pipes might have moved and damaged it, so im going to have to agree with Malibujack and see if you can borrow a friends sensor to see if yours is broke. also check and see if any of the wires came out that were connected to the utec the factory wiring harnesses dont hold up to a lot of "use". so i would check that to

 

Going in to the shop this morning and will check every thing out again: wiring, Ic piping,MAF,etc, and will start over hopfully I will find the problem.

Thanks for the input, MalibuJack and EvoPyro, I will post up and let you know what happens.