Is the FMU hooked up correctly? If so, and assuming the WBO2 at that shop was operating properly, check/replace injectors, check/replace FMU, check/replace fuel pump. On the plus side, lean issues are generally pretty easy to troubleshoot. On the downside, they can end in catastrophe.

I'd get a wideband. It's already been stated, but a few hundred and the ability to monitor is far better than a new motor.

 

The FMU is hooked up exactly as described in the installation instructions.

Explain how to check each one of those, without special diagnostic equipment and tools, and I'll take care of it. Not to mention how do I replace this stuff when I don't have spares sitting around, and none of those things are "cheap".

Wideband is ordered and paid for, just waiting for shipment.

 

You really won't be able to check the injectors accurately yourself. It's always possible you froze one or more of them. The FMU you'd need a fuel pressure gauge or you could swap with someone else if they're willing to risk it. The fuel pump...well...**** if I know.

 

I still don't think there is anything wrong with the car nor the setup. It's been running like this for 8000 miles and the plugs are still fine and I haven't blown my engine. Guess we'll find out when I get the WBO2 installed.

I'm also going to take my tools and such to the local meet tomorrow and see what the EVO guys have to say about it and maybe they could help me diagnose.

 

Not to be rude, but can I echo the usual "you gotta pay to play" sentiment?

 

to be fair, we're all more or less lead to believe that a Stage 1 is plug-n-play power. If this issue is common, or even occurs in a small percentage of kits, it becomes a larger issue of "how do I produce reliable safe power, if this kit has this type of issue?" I don't think he should really need to be buying extras or spares, nor should he really be needing to buy WBO2 or fuel management, if this is a standard Stage 1. I could be wrong, it could be that a need for custom tuning is expressed, and should be understood by an installer- but my limited experience has been that you should just have to pay your $4k and you're good to go until you try to change soemthing else.

but good luck to you

 

wow, thats insalenly lean, hope it works out for ya...

 

It should be plug and play. But who knows, the kit does have many miles on it, not to mention it was shipped from CA to NY. We'll know soon though because I just got notice that my Zeitronix shipped. I'll have it in by next weekend. Then we can see if the A/F readings are correct. Also, when I get the correct Auterra software (they better have shipped it 2-day) I'll do a dyno run and see what results appear.

One thing my coworker brought up was maybe the A/F was messed up, but the dyno was correct. I have an engine code for the pre-cat, which could cause the car to run rich, which could cause the low hp/tq numbers right?

Either way, everything right now is speculation until I get my WBO2 and find out the real numbers.

 

I dont know and I dont think that you are exceeding your injector max duty cycle. I dont think so because it would be lean all up top too. Something fuel related I would guess. There is no boost spiking going on is there? Is your boost gauge mechanical or electrical? Also check your EGTs and make sure that everything is good.

What is the code that is being thrown?

 

No boost spiking that I can see. The vac/boost gauge is electrical. I posted the EGT readings on the mirage forum.

1300s cruising down the expressway
I've gotten it up over 1600 once, when I was really pushing the car
I think I sit in the 800s at idle.

The code is for the missing precat. O2 sensor warmup or something like that.

 

if you've thrown a CEL for the 1st O2 then yeah, you're probably rich and that would account for the (sorry to say) not very impressive dyno numbers. go to www.sdsefi.com and read their article about widebands: same problem you had. AFR was lean, they kept throwing fuel at the car. Afr didn't change, power went to hell. The dyno guys finally cleaned out the water-trap on their WB and that fixed the problem. <-- and that's why you're going to want to set your Zeitronix WB so that the tip points more-or-less down (they say 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock for best condensation drainage).

 

How do you know which sensor is throwing the code? I have heard of "banks", but never got the explaination of what it means and how to read the code.

I'm going to install the WBO2 in place of the first stock O2 until I can get a shop to put the bung into the DP. I'll have them weld it at a 10:00 position.

 

P0421 Warm up catalyst below threshold (bank 1). right? having this code makes my car run like sh*t and very very low gas milage.

 

I think that's the one. My gas mileage isn't bad though, I still get 28mpg all purpose (I rarely romp around with the turbo kit, just mild boost).

 

bank 1 is the front, bank 2 is the rear. At least they kept that simple